Recommendations: Hydraulic Measuring Tool

[Jim Becker]

Would you say the behavior is better? or do you think it will quit completely again when fully up to operating temperature?

The system can be a little jerky, particularly if you are trying to control the movement speed by slowly moving the lever. Does the jerkiness happen when you throw the lever from one extreme to the other? There could still be some air trapped in the wrong places that just needs some time to work itself out. Engine speed can also make a difference in the behavior. I'd hate to see you tear the whole thing apart and do an overhaul to deal with some normal behavior. Without seeing it first hand, it is hard to judge.

If the jerkiness is out of bounds, the problem is likely in the main Touch-Control unit rather than the pump. So that is the direction you need to go to fix it.

[lakesurfer]

Would you say the behavior is better?

Marginally better. Before (after a hard day's work, and with a helper spring but also with cinder blocks on the disc plough) it needed human help to go up. Don't remember if it jerked going down. NOW (fresh, with no helper spring or cinder blocks) it goes up and down, albeit jerking each way.

It WAS able to HOLD that load up firmly, for a 3.1 mile trip back to my home. It did not fade at all.

or do you think it will quit completely again when fully up to operating temperature?

No idea, Jim.

Does the jerkiness happen when you throw the lever from one extreme to the other?

Both. Moving the lever fast from extreme to extreme, and when adjusting the lever slowly.

Engine speed can also make a difference in the behavior.

Jerkiness observed at fast idle and slow.

Without seeing it first hand, it is hard to judge.

Maybe I'll post a link to a video.

If the jerkiness is out of bounds, the problem is likely in the main Touch-Control unit rather than the pump. So that is the direction you need to go to fix it.

I don't know what is "out of bounds" as I am still a bit of a Cub rookie. However, I think digging into the TC head will be where I end up.

If you remove the dash, while you are there, you could check the Touch Control head bolt torque, if you have a torque wrench.
The Cub service manual says tighten the bolts to 45 ft lbs. It says tighten them evenly.

Glen, I forgot to check torque on the head bolts!! D'oh! That will be the very next step, although at this point I think the trouble is deeper, there no sense NOT checking as you suggested.

-Joe

[tractorpoor]

Wouldn’t hurt to reinstall the helper spring just to see if it make a difference.

[Jim Becker]

I don't know what is "out of bounds" as I am still a bit of a Cub rookie. However, I think digging into the TC head will be where I end up.

At this point, I think you are probably right. I would probably try to live with it a little while in case there is some trapped air that might eventually work its way out. I'm not convinced this is likely to change anything. But we are out of options that avoid a complete teardown.

There is only one other thing I can think of short of the teardown. The control valve itself can be pulled out from the front side. I suppose it could be sticking. There is one o-ring on it. you could pull it out, clean it up and install a new o-ring. Here is a thread that talks about that operation.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=113887&p=907281

[lakesurfer]

This whole thing has been more of a mystery because my son-in-law (for whom IH tractors are a lifelong passion, and who owned this one and worked it for 20+ years before restoring it) rebuilt the hydraulics completely w/in the last 5 years. Spoke to him last night. Turns out it was "almost" completely rebuilt. The Control Valve Sealing Ring (#20 in the illustration) was missing from the TC rebuild kit and he said he couldn't order it singly at the time. He bought another kit later, and when he sold the tractor to me, the kit came with it. Bottom line, it looks like I have the Control Valve Sealing Ring "in stock"! So that will be the next effort.

I am going to clean everything well and attempt this procedure w/o removing the TC. I did read that some who've done this say that removing the TC makes it all easier, so I'll keep that in mind and might move to that approach quickly if leaving it on the tractor seems too frustrating.

[Bill V in Md]

With regard to removing the block to do the rebuild, I rebuilt mine near the end of last summer, and I did remove the block. I have the older TC Block like you, and I do not know how you would inspect the relief valve and screen (part numbers 27, 28 & 29) without removing the block. These cannot be accessed without removing the bottom cylinder block cover (#31). Now having said that, these parts are probably ok and will not need replacing, but since I had removed the block, it only made sense to clean everything and replace any needed parts. Also, I don't know how many times I repositioned the block to make it easier to clean and/or remove and replace parts. Also makes it much easier to keep all parts clean during reassembly. Regardless of which way you proceed, good luck.

[lakesurfer]

With regard to removing the block to do the rebuild, .

Bill, Thank you. However, I *only* intend to replace the Control Valve Seal ,(o-ring) at this point.

[Dale Finch]

When you have the control rod out, make sure the bore and the rod itself (including the top where you are pushing the o-ring over) are free of any burrs that could nick the o-ring. That o-ring is difficult to get on, so have patience! And good luck!!

[lakesurfer]

When you have the control rod out, make sure the bore and the rod itself (including the top where you are pushing the o-ring over) are free of any burrs that could nick the o-ring. That o-ring is difficult to get on, so have patience! And good luck!!

Dale - Thank you! I will be careful. I have the same issue with the o-rings that go over the injectors on my 93 Ford IDI. I will be exploring whether a way similar to how I protect the IDI injector o-rings will work. If I get struck with a bolt of inspiration, I'll share for sure.

[lakesurfer]

I replaced the Control Valve Sealing Ring, careful to not nick it. While the TC head was out, I checked the torque on the head bolts this time. Reinstalled the TC head, refilled the system, and bled it. Still using the 8-disc plough (and still no helper spring) as a load, it lifts smoothly now, but still jerks some on the way down.

I am going to bleed air some more, but am open to suggestions. It's good enough to throw the Woods 59 back on and mow though!

[Glen]

Hi,
I'm not sure why you had the head off the unit, unless you were doing other work to it.
The control valve is supposed to come out the front of the unit.
Below is a page from the Cub service manual explaining that, at Important, below 13 on the page.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... -08-23.jpg

I think it's normal for the Touch Control to jerk some going down, with the Cub disk on the hitch.
They have said on here there is a flow restrictor in the unit to slow it going down, so heavy loads don't drop fast.
That is why the engine usually works more moving the arms down when it has no load, than it works moving them up.

[lakesurfer]

Hi,
I'm not sure why you had the head off the unit

Glen: It wasn't off. I was checking the head bolt torques like you suggested before. I removed the entire TC head unit to get to the control valve though.

[Glen]

I guess I didn't understand the term you used. The only thing IH called the head is at the rear end of the unit. It's number 59 in the parts manual picture.
https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... 010-05.jpg

https://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cle ... 010-06.jpg