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Won’t start
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2021 3:59 pm
- Zip Code: 06615
Won’t start
Since, my tractor sat for almost ten years, it never really run that well, but it ran. A few months ago I wouldn’t start at all. Here’s what I’ve done without success
-Tried two different carbs. Fuel was/ is getting to both
-Norwalk, points and condenser.
-Cleaned and regappedthe plugs
-Checked to see if spark is getting to each plug
-Checked if power is getting to the coil
-Removed valve cover. All the valves appear to be moving freely
I’m about ready to list it on Marketplace. lol
-Tried two different carbs. Fuel was/ is getting to both
-Norwalk, points and condenser.
-Cleaned and regappedthe plugs
-Checked to see if spark is getting to each plug
-Checked if power is getting to the coil
-Removed valve cover. All the valves appear to be moving freely
I’m about ready to list it on Marketplace. lol
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 40165
- Location: bullitt county, kentucky
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:51 pm
- Zip Code: 21228
- Tractors Owned: 1948 Farmall Cub
LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MD, Catonsville
Re: Won’t start
Engine compression test?
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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- 10+ Years
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- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Won’t start
engine needs 3 things to run
good compression
good blue spark for ignition
fuel
have all these it will run
good compression
good blue spark for ignition
fuel
have all these it will run
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- 5+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: Farmall Cub
C3 Mower
Hammond B3 for Rainy Days - Location: Medina Ohio
Re: Won’t start
Get a spray can of starting fluid. Remove the air filter tube at the carburetor inlet. While cranking the engine over, squirt some starting fluid into the carburetor. Starting fluid ignites better than gasoline.
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- Cub Pro
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5 lo-boys
1 154
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1 IH444
1 Oliver OC3 crawler
1 AC D10
1 IH 100 manure spreader
1 IH model B corn grinder
3 power units
cub demonstrator - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Ma. Rehoboth
Re: Won’t start
JohnMihevic wrote:Get a spray can of starting fluid. Remove the air filter tube at the carburetor inlet. While cranking the engine over, squirt some starting fluid into the carburetor. Starting fluid ignites better than gasoline.
If it runs on starting fluid, then stalls when you stop spraying it, it has a carb issue.
Ed
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2021 3:59 pm
- Zip Code: 06615
Re: Won’t start
Tried starting fluid with any luck. I’m probably going to breakdown and do a compression check. Weird that it suddenly wouldn’t pop. I was hoping that someone thought of something I missed.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 67
- Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:51 pm
- Zip Code: 27530
- Tractors Owned: 26 Cubs (49-79)
Farmall 130
Kabota B7500
NH TC45 - Location: NC
Re: Won’t start
Coil maybe??
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5004
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: Won’t start
In your first post above did you have any spark at the coil/plugs?
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- 10+ Years
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- Zip Code: 00000
- Tractors Owned: 1956 Farmall Cub with Fast Hitch, F-11 plow, Disc, Cultivator, Cub-22 mower
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- Location: Wa.
Re: Won’t start
Hi,
They have said on here that some new ignition points come with a clear coating on them, power won't go through the coating. Remove the coating if it is there using a flat file. Wipe all filings off with a clean rag.
Here is info for doing a compression test, if you need it.
Open the throttle fully to do the compression test, so the engine can get air.
Have all 4 spark plugs out of the engine at the same time.
Charge the battery fully before the test, and use the starter.
Charge a new battery also, they are not always fully charged, a low output charger is better, 6 amps or so, that automatically goes down as the battery charges. It may take several hours to charge.
The ignition points can corrode when sitting for the Winter, that can make the engine run bad, or not run any. They may need filing and cleaning. Remove all filings with a clean rag.
Check the point gap, it should be .020" for a Cub or LoBoy Battery Ignition unit.
The ignition timing is important to how the engine runs. If it is wrong, the engine can have less power than it should, or run bad.
I would check the ignition timing. A timing light can be used to check it when the engine is running.
I sent you a PM.
They have said on here that some new ignition points come with a clear coating on them, power won't go through the coating. Remove the coating if it is there using a flat file. Wipe all filings off with a clean rag.
Here is info for doing a compression test, if you need it.
Open the throttle fully to do the compression test, so the engine can get air.
Have all 4 spark plugs out of the engine at the same time.
Charge the battery fully before the test, and use the starter.
Charge a new battery also, they are not always fully charged, a low output charger is better, 6 amps or so, that automatically goes down as the battery charges. It may take several hours to charge.
The ignition points can corrode when sitting for the Winter, that can make the engine run bad, or not run any. They may need filing and cleaning. Remove all filings with a clean rag.
Check the point gap, it should be .020" for a Cub or LoBoy Battery Ignition unit.
The ignition timing is important to how the engine runs. If it is wrong, the engine can have less power than it should, or run bad.
I would check the ignition timing. A timing light can be used to check it when the engine is running.
I sent you a PM.
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2021 3:59 pm
- Zip Code: 06615
Re: Won’t start
I have spark at the plugs.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 5004
- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 11:34 pm
- Zip Code: 36558
- Tractors Owned: Cubs: (3)'49's, (1 is for parts), (1)'57 IH Cub LoBoy w/FH, (2)154 Number Series Loboys, (1 is for parts), '76 Longstripe w/FH, Mowers: C-22, Bush Hog 412, Pennington 59, Woods RM42CF, Woods 42, assorted FCub plows, planters, discs, etc. OTHERS: '49 AC B & Ind. Sickle mower, '61 AC D12 Ser 2, '52 8N, '56 Ferguson 35 Deluxe, '47 & '49 Avery V, '53 MM BG (offset), '51 JD M (regular), '56 JD 420C, with Blade and fire plow, '85 JD 850 (Yanmar) w/72" belly mower, '76? Yanmar 2TR15 1500 & Bush Hog SQ42S-2 mower, '78? FORD Dexta, '86 FORD LGT14D & 48" Mower, (2)Cub Cadets & Mowers (MTD), (4) Sears Surburban's, other MTD mowers, Jeeps & other misc. "treasures"
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: AL (Southwest)
Re: Won’t start
Do a compression test to verify that you have enough compression on all cylinders for the engine to start. 80 to 85 psi is getting to the low end. If the plug wires are correctly installed and the timing is correct you might try pull starting the engine. Don't attach the chain/rope to the front end, some parts of the front are not very sturdy and could be broken. JMHO Stan
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: Sun Nov 28, 2021 3:59 pm
- Zip Code: 06615
Re: Won’t start
checked the compression and have runable readings 115,110,100,95. I have a new coil. Im only getting 5.3 volts to the coil and 6.7volts at the battery. Is that a significant enough of a drop to under power the coil? Wont pop with starting fluid. It appears that I have spark at the cylinder. Im running out of ideas. Points and condenser were replaced.
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:08 pm
- Zip Code: 12514
- Circle of Safety: Y
Re: Won’t start
did you gap the points to .020 ? do you have a good blue spark ? not just orange ?
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- Team Cub Mentor
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- Location: Mo. Linn
Re: Won’t start
5.3 volts is sufficient to fire/spark from the coil. Assuming the 5.3 volts is when cranking the engine. If you get below 4 volts when cranking the engine - weak spark - may not start the engine.55loboy wrote:I have a new coil. I'm only getting 5.3 volts to the coil and 6.7volts at the battery. Is that a significant enough of a drop to under power the coil?
You said that you are getting spark at each plug. Your timing is probably messed up.
Did you remove the distributor when you installed the condenser and points? If you did, you need to time the distributor to the engine, then time the points - multiple steps involved.
Have you static timed the engine?
I have an excuse. CRS.
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