removing old paint

[1stCub]

Hi, New to this. Am restoring a 51 cub - my first project. Any good ways to get the old paint of and the new paint on. I'm a weekend mechanic.
Thanks for your help.

[Charles (49) Mo]

Always guys and gals here to help.
Oven cleaner works good to remove paint. Be shure not to get it on the serial number plate, carb, or anything aluminum as it eats it up.A good high pressure water washer often strips a lot of paint off. Watch for flash rust tho. Painting depends on what kind of finish you want. Show quality finish or ???

[George Willer]

Hi, New to this. Am restoring a 51 cub - my first project. Any good ways to get the old paint of and the new paint on. I'm a weekend mechanic.
Thanks for your help.

Welcome, 1st Cub. It's good to see you here.

One of the great things about this hobby... the things you learn along the way. After you have accomplished your restoration you'll know many new things that you have added to your bag of tricks.

"Any good ways to get the old paint of and the new paint on"... well there a lot of books that have been written, I'm sure, just to answer that one sentence question. We all have our favorite ways of doing things, and have to know much more about what you're up to to be able to give a good answer to that question. We'll help all we can.

BTW... the oldest restoration I still have is my '51, Tyke, which I retrieved from 4 states away in boxes. After all the repairs were made and the parts sandblasted it was assembled and sprayed with IH 2150, paying particular attention to keep the paint shiney side out.

In this picture he's wearing the wrong grille, but it has since been replaced with the right one.

[Mac from NS]

George: that looks to nice to be work cloth.

[LiL' Red]

Do a search for frank-in-tallahassee. Frank favors the green tractors but has a formula for lye gravy that works very well. If you have trouble finding his site post back.

[LiL' Red]

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

[Rudi]

1stcub:

First, to the greatest forum on the internet, and to the Cub Family. You will find that all the folks on this forum are kind, helpful and just full of Cub info and knowledge. They also happen to be the finest folks I have ever met

As George said, we all have our favouite methods. Mine if predominantly Electrolysisy. Check out the Electrolysis and Rust Zappers link on the Cub Manual Server. Others also use Elbow Grease, Easy-Off, Sand-blasting -- check out the Sand Blaster page on the Cub Manual Server as well, some use a combination of all forms.. depends on what you have, what you are comfortable with, and that sort of stuff..

As for putting new paint on -- use a good quality paint such as Nason, Dupont Centari, PPG, Delstar etc. These are available whereever good automotive paint is sold. Also, the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions has the various paint codes required to match IH 2150 Red..

Most would probably recommend using a good commercial spray gun. You indicate that you are a weekend mechanic -- do you have or have access to a good 5hp compressor? If so, then spraying would be ideal. Rattle cans have been used by many, but I have not been impressed by them, and of course, hardener cannot be used in a Rattle Can. Hope you have a good respirator as well - that is a necessity.

You can search the forum for threads on Stripping Paint, Electrolysis, Rust Removal, Compressors and Painting, which should reward you with copious amounts of material to read... it will be interesting to say the least.

Welcome, and we look forward to pics of your endeavours..

Ok, so here is the spiel :

I would suggest that you read this thread: New Members and Visitors, Please READ Prior to Posting. There are many great links to informative pages such as the ATIS FAQ's 1 and ATIS FAQ's 2, The Best of H.L. Chauvin who has written very interesting articles on troubleshooting common problems with your Cub.


Also, you might want to visit the Cub Manual Server as there is tons of info on servicing, maintaining and re-building your Cub. In addition to this basic information, there are also a number of other useful tools available on the server. There is the Specialty Services page which has contact info for neat stuff like getting your seats recovered, buying quality Decals, Serial Number tags and a host of other neat items. Also there are the Parts Pages - both Used Parts Suppliers and New Parts Suppliers pages with links to quality dealers. I am always looking for YOUR favourite dealers for New and Used Parts to include here. These are intended to complement the businesses who support FarmallCub.com Website.

I would also recommend that you visit Binder Books and purchase the three most important manuals you can own for Maintenance, Repair and Rebuilding your Cub. These are the Owner's Manual, the GSS-1411 Service Manual and the TC-37F Parts Manual. Although they are available on the Cub Manual Server, it is better is you also have your own paper copy. Binder Books is the only Authorized IH Publication Reprint House and they have the best quality manuals available. Most other's are not of the same quality. Just a personal thought here, the I&T Shop Manuals, although helpful in some areas, really are not sufficient for the job. If you wish though, they are good additional reference works.

IF you really want to get the skinny on all things Cub, might I suggest you get a copy of Ken Updike's Farmall Cub and Cub Cadet's . Along with Guy Fay's Letter Series Originality Guide, these are two must have's in anyone's collection.

In addition to the above information, don't forget to check out the various articles that are available to help with your Repair, Restore, Rebuild or just your Maintenance Projects. There are a number of sub pages such as Electrolysis or Rust Zapper's, Maintenance Tips, Jigs and Techniques, Implement and Part Sketches and of course the Paint, Decals & Other Finish Questions which has the Paint Chart and the Paint Committee Decisions links.

I truly hope that you enjoy your Cub and that you will be a frequent contributor to the forum. Again, to the Cub Family

[brian kov]

I hope my lo-boy looks that good some day. that is a nice job George .

[Buzzard Wing]

Lots of answers to this question if you search the posts. Tons and tons of good info in the 'archives' The best way is the one that works best for you.

Oven cleaner is the best for removing any kind of stain, but pretty nasty stuff, wear gloves.

I would recommend you get a decent NOISH (?) respirator with 'paint' cartridges and prefilters. Lots of em on ebay, the fiters/prefilters are often sold separately.

I prefer to only sandblast 'removable' parts like wheels, etc. Every thing else I take down to bare metal with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, little bites at a time and then clean (stove alcohol) and primer (like Duplicolor rattle can).

The Case/IH rattle can paint is really good stuff as spray paint goes, but you may prefer to use a spray gun or have someone else do the finish coat.

Like all paining the key, and the hard part is the prep.

The other thing I do is chase all the tapped holes, especially if it has been painted. And clean, prime and paint the bolt heads. Also bought boxes of all the common lock washers and replaced them as I go.