Well, I received the reconditioned head from JP Tractor, and put a couple of coats of 2150 on it. I removed the gas tank and took it into Columbus to a radiator shop to get an estimate on cleaning it out, and lining it......WHEW! They told me they would have to send it to Indiana to have the inside sandblasted, then they would coat the interior with their product....for $350 bucks!!!! So, it looks like I'll be trying to clean it out again myself. So, while the tank was off, I drained the coolant, changed the oil, topped off the Hy-Tran, replaced the oil filter, and replaced the rotor cap and distributor cap with new. Tomorrow I'll bolt on the head, fill with new coolant, put the new plugs in, and start 'er p using an auxillary gas tank to make sure all is well. Then I'll begin the task of cleaning out the gas tank.
Also, thanks to those who recommended that I go for the H; however, it was sold when I got up there again, so I bought an Allis Chalmers WD. It's in pretty good shape, and it will do for me the chores that the Cub cannot. The fellow had 4 tractors for sale, and a couple of others sold and in storage for the buyers.
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Tear-down and Gas-tank
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Tear-down and Gas-tank
All this proves is that one gnome pounding on the keyboard for years still will not produce the works of Shakespeare.
No animals were hurt in the rending of this page, but 18 queries were mangled in about 3.874 seconds.
No animals were hurt in the rending of this page, but 18 queries were mangled in about 3.874 seconds.
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Dan, i have seen several suggestions for clenaing out a gas tank, inlcuding putting in some kroil, and then adding pea gravel (pinkie sized round gravel) or small machine nuts , then tieing it to a wheel and slowly runniing the tractor on a jack stnad to provide a tumbling action. After that it is a simple manor to reocat it with Kreme or POR-15
Last edited by John *.?-!.* cub owner on Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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you are part of the problem!!!
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Red-Kote. I've use this product to seal up the inside of several gas tanks with excellent results. Costs around $20.00 per quart - probably higher priced now.
How much did you pay for the WD Allis? I have two WD's, one with a 3-point. My opinion the WD series is a pretty good tractor. Nough said about those wonderful Allis Chalmers tractors, specially on the IH Cub site.
Eugene
How much did you pay for the WD Allis? I have two WD's, one with a 3-point. My opinion the WD series is a pretty good tractor. Nough said about those wonderful Allis Chalmers tractors, specially on the IH Cub site.
Eugene
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Dan:
The guys you took the tank to must be high on something they have been sniffin instead of sprayin....
Any GOOD REPUTABLE Radiator and Tank Repair Shop should be able to do that job for no more than $100.00US.. Geez, that is average for here.... so should be cheaper there...
Red Kote is the sealer of choice, for most Rad Shops.
Check out a few other shops.... these guys must think they are lining with gold....
The guys you took the tank to must be high on something they have been sniffin instead of sprayin....
Any GOOD REPUTABLE Radiator and Tank Repair Shop should be able to do that job for no more than $100.00US.. Geez, that is average for here.... so should be cheaper there...
Red Kote is the sealer of choice, for most Rad Shops.
Check out a few other shops.... these guys must think they are lining with gold....
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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Eugene wrote:Red-Kote. I've use this product to seal up the inside of several gas tanks with excellent results. Costs around $20.00 per quart - probably higher priced now.
How much did you pay for the WD Allis? I have two WD's, one with a 3-point. My opinion the WD series is a pretty good tractor. Nough said about those wonderful Allis Chalmers tractors, specially on the IH Cub site.
Eugene
Eugene - I gave $850 for the WD. I then bought a new worksaver 3-point for $350. I got it yesterday via UPS. I'm going to put it on tomorrow. Yeah, there were 127,000 of the WD's built from '48 to '53. Nice, solid model. Not as many as the Cub, but for different purposes.
All this proves is that one gnome pounding on the keyboard for years still will not produce the works of Shakespeare.
No animals were hurt in the rending of this page, but 18 queries were mangled in about 3.874 seconds.
No animals were hurt in the rending of this page, but 18 queries were mangled in about 3.874 seconds.
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$850- for a WD is right at average price for central Missouri. In this area there were several Allis dealerships and they sold a lot of WDs. My opinion. A 30 horsepower tractor with live hydraulics and a live PTO with 3-point for $1150- is one heck of a deal. I think you will get a lot of use out of the WD.
On the Cub. I initially purchased my Cub for something to mess around with and I thought the price was to good to pass up. Surprisingly, I use the Cub more than I do the WDs. I use the Cub mostly as a mower/trailer tractor and to run errands around the property.
Eugene
On the Cub. I initially purchased my Cub for something to mess around with and I thought the price was to good to pass up. Surprisingly, I use the Cub more than I do the WDs. I use the Cub mostly as a mower/trailer tractor and to run errands around the property.
Eugene
Last edited by Eugene on Fri Apr 21, 2006 11:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Hey Dan...As John suggested KROIL will do a GREAT job on removin' the rust from inside your gas tank.
I have used BOTH pea gravel & a length of chain inside the tank. With virually ALL the rust ending up in the BOTTOM of the gas tank, I've found that the chain length AND pea gravel, AND about a half gallon of KROIL work the best if you have a couple of days and you can just roll the tank back and forth on your work bench:wink:
Be sure to REMOVE the sediment bowl (use a cork to block the bottom hole, or a threaded metal plug).
You can even RECLAIM your KROIL (This is NOT recommended by Kano Labs as ADDITIONAL SALES of KROIL are LOST) by filtering it through COFFEE FILTERS to remove the RUST & SEDIMENT.
I used POR-15 to reseal my tanks, but there maybe other products that work just as well.
I have used BOTH pea gravel & a length of chain inside the tank. With virually ALL the rust ending up in the BOTTOM of the gas tank, I've found that the chain length AND pea gravel, AND about a half gallon of KROIL work the best if you have a couple of days and you can just roll the tank back and forth on your work bench:wink:
Be sure to REMOVE the sediment bowl (use a cork to block the bottom hole, or a threaded metal plug).
You can even RECLAIM your KROIL (This is NOT recommended by Kano Labs as ADDITIONAL SALES of KROIL are LOST) by filtering it through COFFEE FILTERS to remove the RUST & SEDIMENT.
I used POR-15 to reseal my tanks, but there maybe other products that work just as well.
"Save The Possums...Collect The Whole Set"
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