Buying Paint

[dnolan]

Anybody have suggestions on where I should buy the paint & primer for my cub. I know the IH dealer has it, but I would like to mail order it since the dealer is an hour and a half away and very expensive.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Any good paint is expensive, but the Ih piant is reasonbley priced compared to automaotive paints. You can buy paints such as Van Syckle, which are ok, but will fade if left settng in sun.

[dnolan]

Thanks John, I'll probably use the HI Iron guard paint. Now if it doesn't get too cold to paint in my unheated barn.

[Buzzard Wing]

I know what you mean about the nearest dealer! YOu are even closer that I am.

Cecil says the John Deere IH red quarts is great paint, so that may be worth a shot too. I had such good luck with the yeller one I painted the red one almost entirely in IH rattle can paint. It is outstanding for rattle can paint!

I get that from Carter and Gruenwald.

[Cecil]

BW is right I use the John Deere Parts Country IH red in quarts in my gun. I do prefer the Case/IH 2150 rattle cans. They are far superior to the JD rattle cans. The match is perfect. Plus I get my discount at JD.

[kinelbor]

I used the Iron Guard too. For primer I used regular Rustoleum primer. I know what your saying about finding a day to paint when its not cold

[gitractorman]

I used the iron guard white on my blade last year, and it was about 45 degrees in my shop. It took a couple of days to dry completely, but man the finish is HARD! I know that is not the right way to do things, and I typically do follow the directions, but every now and then you just have to go ahead and do it or else it'll never get done.

Something I noticed about the Iron Guard paint is that it seemed to go on with a rough texture and looked kind of flat. I thought I was going to have to sand and re-paint everything, but when it dried, it came out perfectly smooth and shiny. I used the Iron Guard red to brush paint some parts, and the same thing happened. Went on with brush strokes in it, but dried smooth and shiny, without brush strokes.

I used some of the Ace Implement Blue paint, and will NEVER use it again. The stuff took forever to dry, in perfect conditions, and the final finish is soft. You can actually peel if off with your finger nail. At first I thought it was the primer I used (Ace), but I tried it on top of Rustoleum primer, and same result. Matter of fact, I used Rustoleum to paint my rims, and the finish is much better thant the Ace paint.

[Matt Kirsch]

Some paint can literally take months to cure completely.

When Dad painted the 400, I could still smell the paint two months later while pulling the field roller! That was CaseIH 2150, too.

[TractorChick]

when we painted ours we got the IH paint from the dealer around here, if you go that route, make sure it's all the same lot number, we made that mistake too.

When my ex and i did his tractor, we went to dickey bubs and got the farm paint, worked quite nice too.

[Brandon Webb]

We have used expensive dupont, but also used Tractor Supply paint, it's made by valspar, works very well with hardner. It's alot cheaper and looks as good. Brandon.

[lloyd430]

Careful with the Tractor Supply Paint - there is no UV blocker and it fades REALLY quick. AS far as glossy in a paint that coumes out when the paint dries above 50 degrees, below that the gloss can't come to the surface.

Lloyd430

[technova]

If you are using a hardener, and there's no reason you shouldn't be, the paint will not cure below 55 degrees. It will however, dry.
There is a difference between drying and curing. Drying is the evaporation of solvents, curing is the chemical reaction of the hardener and paint causing the paint to crosslink. Crosslinking forms a sturdy bond within the paint causing it to be much more durable than paint w/o hardener. Hardener also adds additional gloss when used correctly.
Paint w/o hardener will be sensitive to gas staining and fading. Paint with hardener that is kept below 55 degrees will not acheive crosslinking and may "dry" but will not cure and therefor will not have the durability that is desired.
Non hardened paint is more likely to smell later on as it never cures but continues to evaporate solvents (dries) for a few months.
I use the value lines from PPG such as OMNI or Commercial Performance Coatings. To me if it's worth painting I'm going to use a hardened urethane or acrylic Enamel. About 8 years ago I shot my 49 and wanted to save a few bucks by using non hardened implement paint it has looked bad now for 7 years and 11 months. Lesson learned.

[George Willer]

If you are using a hardener, and there's no reason you shouldn't be, the paint will not cure below 55 degrees.

There's a VERY good reason to avoid using hardener. It's called lungs!

[technova]

If you are using a hardener, and there's no reason you shouldn't be, the paint will not cure below 55 degrees.

There's a VERY good reason to avoid using hardener. It's called lungs!

A VERY good reason to protect yourself, not avoid using it.
I shoulda mentioned it.
Buying the proper mask is a given and is alot cheaper than redoing the paint cuz you didn't want to add hardener.
If anyone isn't understanding the health dangers of painting, with or without hardener (it's not just the lungs), post your questions here.
I teach painting & safety for a living.

[Rudi]

Anybody have suggestions on where I should buy the paint & primer for my cub. I know the IH dealer has it, but I would like to mail order it since the dealer is an hour and a half away and very expensive.

Well, using CaseIH products is one way to go. But using automotive paints (read: Catalysed Materials) is another way to go. I just had an experience with both CaseIH and Nason Ful Cryl. You may be able to find them much closer to you, and if so, then it would be an avenue worth exploring. You can also get those paints uncatalysed from your local automotive paint store - they can load up rattle cans on site (my C-Max/NAPA dealer does).

The CaseIH paint I found was more difficult to spray.. a little globbier.. and did not shine as much as the Nason. And yes, the Case was used with Centari reducer and Centari catalyst. That way the paint WILL not fade in the sun.

Any paint that is not Catalyzed will fade after prolonged exposure to the sun, or so it has been pointed out to me in all the articles I have read.

George Willer Posted:

If you are using a hardener, and there's no reason you shouldn't be, the paint will not cure below 55 degrees.

There's a VERY good reason to avoid using hardener. It's called lungs!

George is correct Proper respirators are an absolute must, otherwise severe damage to your lungs will occur. You will first find out about this only when the damage has been done. One type of damage is called Pulmonary Fibrosis -- don't ask ok.. on top of everything else, I have to deal with that.. and I do use masks for catalysed finishing which I have been doing for over 30 years. In my case it was the smoking which did not help....

If you have the facilities (ie: a good finishing room with proper ventilation and proper respirators as well as a good inductrial compressor and guns), then automotive or even catalysed Case Iron Guard will work well and provide a great finish.

With that said, after looking at Cecil's Cub and BuzzardWing's Cathy... them thar CaseIH Iron Gard Rattle Cans sure do a nice job