motor question

[Rob in NH]

i plan on having the motor rebuilt and was wondering if i need to be aware of anything when i take the governor and hydraulic pump off?

[Clem]

your parts should come off easily. One tip is to ziplock bag and mark all your bolts so you cna remember where they go, I learned the hard way. As far as the pump goes, I would drain your hyd. and replace later anyway.

[George Willer]

Be aware that you may have some difficulty getting the governor back in place with the gears meshing properly. This is less of an issue with a distributor, but with a mag there is one and only one place for the gears to mesh. I'd be most comfortable understanding the assembly procedure before unleashing those demons.

The manual and the search feature to the archives are your friend.

[Rob in NH]

mine does have a distributor. do you mean the gear on the gov. or the distributor?

[Ron Luebke]

take pics can help when putting back togethere

[George Willer]

PB,

The crankshaft drives an idler gear, which in turn drives the governor. The governor shaft has a slot that drives the distributor. This is very important to locate properly.

Since the distributor drive has a spline shaft that allows some later correction it's easier to install or correct later, but I prefer to have the governor correctly timed in case a mag is desired later.

A careful reading of the procedure should be a good confidence builder.

[Rob in NH]

ok thank for all the advice.also, should i take the front pulley off before sending it to rebuilder?

[WKPoor]

It is unlikely the shop will have the proper tool or procedure to take off the pulley. If it were mine I would have it off before it goes in the shop.

[Rob in NH]

ok guys, i need your help again.i have the rad,steering housing ready to come off but i cant get it past water inlet nipple. does this need to come off too, and if so how?this thing is just sitting there so any help would be apreciated. thanks

[George Willer]

As you can already see, it will come apart MUCH easier with the nipple removed. Unfortunately removing the nipple itself can be a big undertaking. It will be reluctant to come out in useable form, but it's just a 1 1/4" black pipe nipple with the threads cut off one end. The replacement should be 2 1/4" long with threads only on one end.
Hint: A 4 1/2" nipple will make two. Here are some ideas:

1. Reach through between the engine and radiator base with a Sawsall and saw the nipple off.

a. The stub can be removed later by burning it out with a torch.

b. The stub can be removed by the same method used to remove a rusted off exhaust stack using the same saw to weaken the walls and then collapse the remainder with punches and chisels.

c. When assembling the replacement nipple use plenty of Never-seez to make it easier the next time.

2. Drill a couple holes all the way through the nipple so you can use a bar to turn it.

3. Make up a plug to drive into the nipple so you can use a big pipe wrench without collapsing it. Collapsing the nipple makes it grip even tighter.

4. Get enough help around to be able to twist the front end around to remove it with the nipple in place. This is the method used on Peter Person's front split at CubFest 2006.

[Rob in NH]

thanks for the tips george, i was able to get the housing off by taking the wood wedges out and then twisting it to get by the pully. i was thinking of splitting the housing to replace the gasket, is this something easy to do? i dont want to mess up the steering gears.

[George Willer]

Splitting to replace the gasket won't affect the gears at all.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Even though I can't lift much I can remove the front with the nipple intact. After it is unbolted just raise the front of the engien a little more and let the front tilt away. that will give engou rooom to clear the pulley and roll apart.

[Rob in NH]

thats how i did it, it was the wood wedges that messed me up.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I left the wedges in place