liquid filled tires??? Advise??

[Daniel H.]

If you want to add the fluid, turn the tire so the valve stem it at the top, remove the valve core and screw on the adapter. Your fluid tank needs to be five feet higher than the tire. Here it is from the owner's manual:

[evielboweviel]

CC is the best weight to use on ANY tractor that is used on a hillside. steel has its place and is needed also. You can't beat CC for keeping the center of gravity as low as possible
Ron

[BigBill]

On my neighbors CC147 with the front end loader(danco) he has the weight box on the rear hitch(cement) and i put two sets of rear wheel weights on the rear wheels and she still loses traction while backing up with a full bucket half way up even with tire chains too. Then if a 200lb person jumps on the cement box it will gain traction and back up no problem. So in building my cub cadet with the 29"-1200-15" rear AG tires I figure to load them with liquid and add 116lbs to each wheel before the weight box or wheel weights. Even with two wheel weights on each side i'm gaining 50lbs plus the 116lbs of liquid so i'm at 166lbs with no added weight on the tractor.

A buddy suggested using "rim guard" its made for loading the tires and it won't corrode the rim or freeze too. I don't know too much about it. Its suppose to be heavier than Cal/Clord or water or antifreeze too.

[evielboweviel]

Big Bill
I used to run 8.3x24 rear tires on a cub with a 1000 loader. Had the outside tires loaded+chains, wheel weight on each center(4), and a 5' 3pt boxblade hanging on the back still spun the tires at times. mowed with the same tractor on slopes I couldn't walk on with a Woods 59. Had the tractor to bounce up on the uphill side time to time but it always set back down. Should have had the other 2 rears loaded but didn't think the tires would take it they were old, old. This kind of stuff is what wears motors out and it needs rebuild now.
Ron

[Boss Hog]

To put the antifreeze in ; take a garden spray tank [ cheep one from TSC] remove spray nozzle slide hose over valve stem pour antifreeze in tank and pump sprayer with stem at bottom. After you get antifreeze in turn valve stem to top put on adapter and fill with water. press air bleed once in a while to get out air.
David

[TractorChick]

I second the wheel weight comment

[KETCHAM]

My H has calicum in them.I like the extra weight low and to the ground.John has some weights going to cub-a-rama for me.I like the low weight when I'm pulling some thing out of the ground!!!This one always opens a can of worms.I love it!!!!! Kevin

[gitractorman]

Several people missed this, but BigBill is talking about loading tires on a Cub Cadet, not a regular Farmall Cub.

I agree, on the Cadet there is only so much weight that you can add by wheel weights. After about 2 sets on each side, you have them sticking way out past the tires, and you do tend to hang them up on things pretty easy. You can add one weight to the inside of a Cub Cadet rim, but that is about it, and since the weights are so small, you are only adding 52 pounds by going to all of the effort. Loading the tires is really the easiest method to add a LOT of weight to a Cadet.

The Farmall Cub is nice because you can actually add a single weight on the inside of the rear rim, and two on the outside, which adds an increadible amount of weight to the tractor compared to the size of the machine, almost 900 pounds of additional weight with 3-sets.

I did have a Cadet a while back, that someone had made a steel bracket that bolted to the frame in the rear, and allowed you to hang 4 of the small suitcase weights like you see on the modern sub-compact tractors. I really liked that setup because you could easily drop the weights if you needed, and the weight bracket was nice for carrying around other things.

Bill

[Don McCombs]

Maybe it would be less confusing in the Cub Cadet Forum.

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