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Stuck Clutch

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PoberCub
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Stuck Clutch

Postby PoberCub » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:01 pm

Any ideas on why a clutch would get stuck engaged. Everything was fine until I tried to stop, then my little ole cub kept right on going. No damage, only in 1st gear and got it stopped just fine. I checked all the linkages and nothing had moved or slipped. Throw out bearing is moving like it should but the fingers are not lifting the pressure plate. Is it time to split it and replace it all? Thanks in advance :?
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Bigdog
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Postby Bigdog » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:06 pm

It is not uncommon for a clutch disk to stick to a flywheel due to rust and / or moisture. Have someone hold the pedal down and working through the hand hole see if you can pry the disk off of the flywheel surface. If you do not see the fingers moving when the throwout bearing contacts them the linkage may be out of adjustment. Perhaps a pin has fallen out.
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PoberCub
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Postby PoberCub » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:25 pm

Looks like a good Saturday project. I will give it another look and let you know what I find. It would be nice to get it servicable without splitting it Thanks :)
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JimT
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Postby JimT » Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:58 pm

Another thing you might try to see if the disc is stuck is to, with the cub off, engage the rear PTO and try to turn it by hand while the clutch pedal is pushed in. If it turns then it is not stuck. If it doesn't turn then it may be stuck or the pressure plate is causing the problem. Just another thing to try.
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Postby Eugene » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:04 pm

http://www.farmallcub.com/phpBB2/viewto ... uck+clutch

Splitting the Cub may be the most practical thing to do. You can then check out the condition of the throwout bearing, pressure plate and disk.

Curious. You drove the Cub around and shifted gears?
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 pm

check the adjustment at the pedal, it may have slipped and the throwout not moving enough to push the fingers all they way down. It is unusual for a clutch to stick while running, it is normally the results of setting for extended periods.
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Postby Gary Dotson » Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:17 am

I've never seen a clutch stick while running, only after extended down time. Aside from linkage & throwout bearing, the thing I've seen cause your symptom is the lining coming loose from the disc. It will often overlap itself and the clutch will not release. I saw this several times, years ago as a young mechanic, then it happened last year on my Cockshutt. If this is the case, it's new clutch time.

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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Sat Nov 03, 2007 8:48 am

Gary Dotson wrote:I've never seen a clutch stick while running, only after extended down time. Aside from linkage & throwout bearing, the thing I've seen cause your symptom is the lining coming loose from the disc. It will often overlap itself and the clutch will not release. I saw this several times, years ago as a young mechanic, then it happened last year on my Cockshutt. If this is the case, it's new clutch time.


I won the bet but it cost me a clutch about 1951. I down-shifted the old Chevy to first gear at 55 MPH by double clutching. Problem is I let the clutch out without revving the engine to max. Violent chatter tore the clutch lining apart and it overlapped. I had to drive it without a clutch for a while. Good thing it started easy.

Did you do any unusual shifting?
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KETCHAM
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Postby KETCHAM » Sat Nov 03, 2007 9:01 am

Like starting them in gear George?I had my HD break the finger that pushes the rod to release the clutch.I was a long way from home at the time.I got her home,but hated starting in in gear.My buddies gave me a hard time over it too.Kevin ps split the tractor you know you want to.
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Postby BigBill » Sat Nov 03, 2007 9:58 am

I have seen warped pressure plates and broken release levers that can cause this too. It may look ok until you take it apart.


I had a new engine once that i rebuilt for my 1 ton 4x4 log truck. I let the automotive machine shop bore and assemble my short block. The engine ran great at 90lbs oil pressure for around 1,000 miles. I was in Vt when i heard a rattle type knock. I drove it 235 miles home with the rattle. I ended up pulling the motor out to see whats wrong with it. I took out 7 pistons and they all looked great. I took out number #8 piston and the skirt came out in two pieces. I was lucky the skirt cracked in the shape of a wedge that was caputured so it stayed running. The crack was along the forge line. These were brand new TRW forged pistons. They gave me one new one so it an ashtray now. I purchased another whole set. My point is your not sure until its apart.
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.

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Postby Boss Hog » Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:13 pm

The pilot bushing may have siezed to the transmission main shaft rare but have seen it
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PoberCub
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Postby PoberCub » Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:52 pm

Thanks to all for the advice, hopefully I will have it fixed very soon. I'll post what the problem was once I find it.
:D :D
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