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Farmall Cub Rear Wheels

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dkennedy
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Farmall Cub Rear Wheels

Postby dkennedy » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:11 am

So I've had my cub for around 6 months now and have loved it! It's primarily used for mowing and pulling brush etc, where it has excelled to no end.

Well yesterday I noticed that one of my rear tires was low, so I decided to add some air, the first time I've need to do so actually. I try to turn the aluminum cap off of the stem and it won't budge. I look at it and it looked a bit corroded, being aluminum and the tires having calcium chloride in them probably doesn't help. I grab a pair of vice grips, turned, and the stem snapped off in the middle! :x

In looking at the stem it appears that it is somehow welded to the rim! I thought that these tire types have an internal tub inside the tire, and that the stem should just protrude through. This maybe the case on my tire, it just doesn't look like it. So in looking at my rim, I can see there's a bit of corrosion all over the area near the stem, so I have a feeling I might need a new rim. Where might I find one, and if at a minimum I need a new tube, is removing the old tire and tubes something that I can do myself, or should I load it up on my trailer and take it somewhere? The mowing season is over, so I've got all winter to rectify it, what would be the boards advice? :D
1949 Farmall Cub w/42" Woods

PAUL K. in N.H.
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Postby PAUL K. in N.H. » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:21 am

Wedge the front axle before you jack up the tractor. If you do need a new rim you can get one from one of the site sponcers at the bottom of this page.

Paul K. in N.H.

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:24 am

Normal set up on old rear tractor tire is a larger valve type fitting coming through the wheel with a knurled nut on it to keep from sliding back through rim, then a smaller fitting to adapt down to a standard valve stem size. You may be seeing that nut all corroded up rather than stem rusted directly.
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dkennedy
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Postby dkennedy » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:31 am

John,

Excellent point, that maybe well what I'm seeing. If that's the case then it sounds like I can replace the small fitting that reduces it down to the standard valve stem, correct? I'll try to take pictures tonight of it and take a better look at what I have. Paul, I went over to TM and I'm contemplating just buying two new rims anyhow, is removing the tires I have, which are in very good shape, a one man job?
1949 Farmall Cub w/42" Woods

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Postby Bigdog » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:33 am

I think you will find the tires amazingly easy to dis-mount and re-mount. It's not a bad job at all. Plus, from the location in your profile, you have lots of help all around you.
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PAUL K. in N.H.
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Postby PAUL K. in N.H. » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:37 am

I have never done tire work, but many on the forum have done their own tires by themself. Some don't want to bother with it and take them to a local tire shop, not useually a big exspence.

Paul K. in N.H.

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Postby phantom » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:38 am

i would rather mount cub rear tires all day than change just one of those lil 6 inch lawn mower tires.
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Postby PAUL K. in N.H. » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:38 am

BD, is much to fast on the keyboard.

Paul K. in N.H.

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Postby PAUL K. in N.H. » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:48 am

DK, I see new rims at Tm site, but I didn't see any used ones, but I am not sure. If you do replace the rims and you want to go with good used ones, you could try Ralph or Cubguy.

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Postby Eugene » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:50 am

My experience says I would have to buy a new tube when the stem breaks off.

Suggestion. Before purchasing new rims. Dismount the tires then check the condition of the rims. If badly rusted (holes) - replace. Minor rust - clean up paint and reuse.

I do my own tractor tires. Cub rears are not hard to change. It's a one man job. Drain out the fluid first. The rears full of fluid can be a pain to handle due to the weight.

Depending on how long the tire has been on the rim and if the bead is rusted to the rim. Breaking the bead will be the hardest part of the task.

Give it a try. Worst thing that can happen is you get frustrated and take the wheels to the tire shop.
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Postby Don McCombs » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:53 am

TM doesn't list their used parts anymore, but they do still sell them. Send them an email and tell them what you're looking for.
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dkennedy
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Postby dkennedy » Fri Nov 30, 2007 9:58 am

Wow, didn't realize it was that easy. If it just the stem section, can I replace it easily without removing the tub etc and where would I find this little piece I need?
1949 Farmall Cub w/42" Woods

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Postby hschwartz3 » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:12 am

I'd replace the tube. Can be found at your local tire shop for around $25. The rear tires are not that hard remove from the rim. I had never done one before and found it quite easy due to it's size. I had more trouble with the smaller 12" front's. Once they were soaped up, trying to get them back on, I was chasing them all over the garage floor. ha,ha.

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Postby Jim Becker » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:24 am

If it is really just a damaged stem, replacing the stem can be a whole lot easier than dismounting the tire to change a tube. On the other hand, if most of your use is mowing, you don't need the weight of the CaCl solution in the tires. Getting rid of it and cleaning up the rims will reduce weight of the tractor and reduce future corrosion. Your choice.

The new rims that are available have different lugs than the originals. So my preference is to stick with the originals if reasonably possible, even if it requires buying and cleaning up good used rims.

One final caution, the original rims were made in several widths. The most common ones were 7" wide (measured inside the bead). I think all the new replacement rims are 7". If you replace 1 rim, be sure to match what you have.

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Postby Cecil » Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:43 am

Now for a how to on breaking down rear tires on a Cub

1. Locate your bumper jack, bottle jack or porta power.
2. Lay tire flat on the garage floor and push against a wall.
3. Place jack or porta power on tire as close as possible to the rim.
4. Lean jack or porta power back against the wall with it fully retracted
and mark the top of the jack or porta power on the wall.
5. Attach a 2x4 against the wall with the bottom on the previously
marked line.
6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.

You may have to rotate the tire and do this in a few places until it finally goes.

This trick was taught to me by ScottyD's Dad at the mini fest last February and boy does it work great.

Any questions send me a PM and I will try to answer them.


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