Farmall Cub Rear Wheels

[George Willer]

Once the bead is broken the rest is fairly easy. Breaking beads that have been exposed to calcium can be a totally different matter. The rust scale between the tire bead and rim is expanded and locks the two together very strongly. I've had tires that resisted the down pressure of a backhoe bucket, loader bucket, the full weight of a pickup, and a heavy slide hammer.

Given a clean, non-rusted rim it's a job most of us can do without messing with taking the wheel to a tire shop. I do recommend cleaning the rim and painting it, washing the inside of the tire to remove all calcium, and a new tube.

Oh... start breaking the bead on the side opposite the valve stem where it should be rusted less.

[Jim Becker]

6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.

What do you do when the wall lifts up?

[Super A]

Working with tires is another one of those "why bother??" jobs for me. We have a good tire shop within 10 minutes from the house that does car, heavy truck, and farm equipment tires. They'll break down a front tractor tire for you and put a patch in a tube for $5 For that price, it's not worth it to have the tools and materials around to do it myself.

If you go to a shop for your rear tires, consider loading the whole tractor up and taking it there. It is much easier to break down a rear tractor tire while it's still on the tractor--one can work standing up, and work quicker--less to hold on to.

My Cub has wheel weights and calcium in the tires (Why I have no idea). One of my "to do's" is to take it down and put new tubes in it to get rid of the fluid....

Al

[BigBill]

At the tire shop they use a large sledge type hammer to break the beads on the trailer truck tires and i'm sure this method would work on tractor tires too. It has a longer flat hooked nose for breaking beads.

I just purchased two tires changers one for the 12" to 16" rims like the old hand operated tire changers were and one smaller one for the cub cadet front tires. I also purchased the large tire irons from TSC and down the road i need to fabricate a bead breaker for the rear tires.

Back in the mid 50's I watched my two older brothers change a tire by hand with tire irons on the ground on there 49 merc. It looks tough but once you do it you'll say that was easy with no easy button.....

[drspiff]

Now for a how to on breaking down rear tires on a Cub

1. Locate your bumper jack, bottle jack or porta power.
2. Lay tire flat on the garage floor and push against a wall.
3. Place jack or porta power on tire as close as possible to the rim.
4. Lean jack or porta power back against the wall with it fully retracted
and mark the top of the jack or porta power on the wall.
5. Attach a 2x4 against the wall with the bottom on the previously
marked line.
6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.

You may have to rotate the tire and do this in a few places until it finally goes.

This trick was taught to me by ScottyD's Dad at the mini fest last February and boy does it work great.

Is this what you are describing?



Rick (a visual kinda' guy) Dulas

[George Willer]

At the tire shop they use a large sledge type hammer to break the beads on the trailer truck tires and i'm sure this method would work on tractor tires too. It has a longer flat hooked nose for breaking beads.

Tractor trailer tires that haven't been exposed to calcium and tractor tires with rusted rims are two entirely different things. Have you tried it?

The tool you describe has a slight chance in the hands of an expert provided there is some tire lube like "Skid" that can creep into the space created momentarily with each blow. Each blow has to be a hard one delivered accurately to the space without striking the rim. It isn't for the faint of heart.

[George Willer]

Now for a how to on breaking down rear tires on a Cub

1. Locate your bumper jack, bottle jack or porta power.
2. Lay tire flat on the garage floor and push against a wall.
3. Place jack or porta power on tire as close as possible to the rim.
4. Lean jack or porta power back against the wall with it fully retracted
and mark the top of the jack or porta power on the wall.
5. Attach a 2x4 against the wall with the bottom on the previously
marked line.
6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.

You may have to rotate the tire and do this in a few places until it finally goes.

This trick was taught to me by ScottyD's Dad at the mini fest last February and boy does it work great.

Any questions send me a PM and I will try to answer them.

Here's a variation that I've been using for the last 30 years or so. It was quickly made up at the time from junk that was laying around... I think it was an old tire rack but most anything could be used. It works well on tires that aren't extremely stubborn. It uses leverage to do what Cecil's jack does. There's no danger of lifting the building.

[Cecil]

Well this is just from my point of view. If the building lifts its time for a new building. Yes Rick thats what I meant. I need to get Visio on this machine so I can draw pictures. Nice job

[JimT]

Now for a how to on breaking down rear tires on a Cub

1. Locate your bumper jack, bottle jack or porta power.
2. Lay tire flat on the garage floor and push against a wall.
3. Place jack or porta power on tire as close as possible to the rim.
4. Lean jack or porta power back against the wall with it fully retracted
and mark the top of the jack or porta power on the wall.
5. Attach a 2x4 against the wall with the bottom on the previously
marked line.
6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.

Only one problem for me with your technique. I have my garage walls covered in pegboard and there are no exposed wall studs.

[Cecil]

Well there is always a stud finder.

[JimT]

Well there is always a stud finder.

[XFARMA]

Cecil wrote:
Well there is always a stud finder.
Just don't let the better half know about it Chuck

[scotlem]

[quote="Cecil"]Now for a how to on breaking down rear tires on a Cub

1. Locate your bumper jack, bottle jack or porta power.
2. Lay tire flat on the garage floor and push against a wall.
3. Place jack or porta power on tire as close as possible to the rim.
4. Lean jack or porta power back against the wall with it fully retracted
and mark the top of the jack or porta power on the wall.
5. Attach a 2x4 against the wall with the bottom on the previously
marked line.
6. Place jack or porta power on tire as mentioned above with the top
beneath the 2.4 on the wall and jack away. WALA the tire will break
down.



I might add to spray PB blaster into the beed while doing this. will come appart much easier and quicker. When I pull fork lift tires off at work I spray PB blaster arround the beed and manage to break the bead with just tire irons

[Buzzard Wing]

I know it's just me... but I have found that only the last set of fronts were easy to get on. I did have a pair of fronts that were easy to get off, I used a big vise to break the bead on those. Tires seem to challenge me.

I do like Ed's trick.... but I will save that till I am ready to replace the sill.

How the heck do you do rears with calcium in em??? Drain em first would be my guess... But what do you do with the stuff??

I broke the beads on the rears by driving the F250 onto em as close to the bead as possible. Sorta tricky, but it worked.

TM does have the rims. But I would agree with Jim, if you can save the originals do it.

[Cecil]

When I had the flat on the rear of the JD 60 I had to drain the remaining calcium. Open the valve stem and turn it down. Do not let it run anywhere there is grass or something that grows. It soon won't.