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Hydraulic Block Rebuild
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- 10+ Years
Hydraulic Block Rebuild
I have decided to rebuild both the TC pump and Block on the 52 Cub. The pump seems to be pretty straight forward. My question is for anyone that has rebuilt the block. Are there specific things I should watch out for during the rebuild, or things that are problematic with disassembly or reassembly? My theory, ask first, not later after you have totally screwed something up. Advice appreciated. Pete
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make sure your work area is extremely clean, and you have access to a parts washer that you can put the parts in. Also you dont wnat to tear into and not finish it realitively quickly without putting fluids back in.
I did mine on a dirty bench, without a parts washer, and left it dry for several months. Well needless to say, it had to come apart again, be gone through again, in a parts washer, reassembled, and the control piston (?) had to be reshaped as it got bent due to condensation and pressures expreienced in a dry shaft. Tell me how that happened.
I did mine on a dirty bench, without a parts washer, and left it dry for several months. Well needless to say, it had to come apart again, be gone through again, in a parts washer, reassembled, and the control piston (?) had to be reshaped as it got bent due to condensation and pressures expreienced in a dry shaft. Tell me how that happened.
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Pete:
Since I have not done the rebuild on either the pump or the reservoir (just remove busted bolts in the reservoir when installling the By-Pass Block), I would suggest reading the GSS-1024 Touch Control Service Manual.
The one thing I can attest to is pay attention to the grade of bolts you may use as replacements. Grade 5 or better. Anything less leads to tons of grief.. and No, you cannot ask why
Since I have not done the rebuild on either the pump or the reservoir (just remove busted bolts in the reservoir when installling the By-Pass Block), I would suggest reading the GSS-1024 Touch Control Service Manual.
The one thing I can attest to is pay attention to the grade of bolts you may use as replacements. Grade 5 or better. Anything less leads to tons of grief.. and No, you cannot ask why
Last edited by Rudi on Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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Pete, I have rebuilt several blocks. It's pretty straightforward. Like John said, clean and don't wait. There are a lot of small pieces in the valves. Keep them separate as you take them apart so you don't mix things up.
I have more trouble with the pump. Always have trouble getting the "o"ring on the pump shaft not to tear when putting the two halves of the pump body together.
I have more trouble with the pump. Always have trouble getting the "o"ring on the pump shaft not to tear when putting the two halves of the pump body together.
Keith Lukachek
55 Lo (Woods), 57 Lo(in boxes), 62 Lo(105 mower), 50 for parades, 57 FH, 58 FH, 64 Loader (Ugly Duckling), 154 (Woods), 59(Woods), 49 SAV, 58 460U Diesel
55 Lo (Woods), 57 Lo(in boxes), 62 Lo(105 mower), 50 for parades, 57 FH, 58 FH, 64 Loader (Ugly Duckling), 154 (Woods), 59(Woods), 49 SAV, 58 460U Diesel
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Keith L wrote:Pete, I have rebuilt several blocks. It's pretty straightforward. Like John said, clean and don't wait. There are a lot of small pieces in the valves. Keep them separate as you take them apart so you don't mix things up.
I have more trouble with the pump. Always have trouble getting the "o"ring on the pump shaft not to tear when putting the two halves of the pump body together.
Clean is the main thing. Don't dry parts with a cloth as lint can cause trouble. Be sure to liberally coat all parts in Hy-Tran when you assemble it. Keeping the different parts separate is easier than trying to sort them afterward.
A good coat of oil will help with problems like Keith described with the pump shaft o-ring. When assembling round parts, rotating them as you push them in place will help avoid those problems too.
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I just did one recently, the 1411 service manual, section 8 has some good info and pics:
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/Section%208%20-%20Hydraulic%20System%20Touch-Control.htm
Mine was the early block and this manual is for later ones and there are some differences.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1411%20Service%20Manual%20for%20Cubs%20and%20Lo-boy%20Tractors/Section%208%20-%20Hydraulic%20System%20Touch-Control.htm
Mine was the early block and this manual is for later ones and there are some differences.
Trent McPeak
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Parts removal and replacement
Best to make a diaghram of what comes out from each bore and the specific direction of the part.Don't remember right now but the lift piston needs to be in one direction for ease of removal.
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Plan on replacing the big (expensive) screen that doesn't come with the kit. If it hasn't already failed it soon will.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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When we redid Alan's last year, we would slide out a piece, put it in a sandwich bag and label it with the part #. Then everything was sprayed down with carb cleaner and lubed before the new O-rings were placed and the part was reinstalled. Worked out real well, and the TC worked when we were done.
Bob
Bob
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i did a pump a while back. not so bad. only a few parts, and the well written instructions came with the kit. i have not yet tackled a block, but i've seen the exploded view, and glanced at the instructions. first thing that came to my mind is that i don't have that gauge, and if i had read the instructions further, i probably would discover i don't have some of the other tools i will need, and i am sure i could drop a part on the floor and find it with my hind foot. since this tractor will be the one to wear the blade i am considering looking for a master control rather than keeping the hydro. i remember a few years ago mr. willer telling how much better control he has with the hand lever when using that impliment.
the day will come when i either have to fix one of them or hire you to do it for me. so dive right on in there, pete, and learn it well so i can bring mine to you soon.
the day will come when i either have to fix one of them or hire you to do it for me. so dive right on in there, pete, and learn it well so i can bring mine to you soon.
phantom
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Pete,
Andrew and I did his, if I had to do it over again, I would pay more attention to exactly what came out of each hole, and its orientation. The diagram I had left me guessing and using intuition a bit too much.
However, it works great, and we didn't use any special tools, but we did use oil liberally during the re-assembly.
So I guess the real secret is to be as ignorant of the "gotchas" as possible! Worked for us, so quit asking questions and jump right in there!
Andrew and I did his, if I had to do it over again, I would pay more attention to exactly what came out of each hole, and its orientation. The diagram I had left me guessing and using intuition a bit too much.
However, it works great, and we didn't use any special tools, but we did use oil liberally during the re-assembly.
So I guess the real secret is to be as ignorant of the "gotchas" as possible! Worked for us, so quit asking questions and jump right in there!
Rick Spivey
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
'52 Cub ("Great Personality") 148xxx
'48 Cub with FH ("Gunny Cub") 38xxx
'57 Lambretta (a slow work in progress)
'74 Triumph TR6 (Mama's toy)
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