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Replacing my radiator

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Poncho
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Replacing my radiator

Postby Poncho » Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:48 pm

Besides replacing the gasket and hoses, any other advice on replacing the radiator? Thanks, Poncho
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Donny M
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Postby Donny M » Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:52 pm

Here's one: make sure the bolster surface is flat. Take a large mill bastard and draw file it to get a good mounting surface. If the surface isn't flat it will pull the radiator and ay cause leaks.
8)

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Postby Eugene » Fri Dec 14, 2007 10:55 pm

Clean the crap out of the bolster (lower radiator housing) and while you are at it. Flush the engine.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Postby Yogie » Sat Dec 15, 2007 12:08 am

You might put a little anti-seize on the bolts before putting them back in.
Someones going to be in there again in another 50 years :D

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Postby Bigdog » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:21 am

Poncho - buy, beg or borrow a long (24") 3/8" drive ratchet extension. It makes removing the radiator bolts really easy and will save your knuckles and your patience.
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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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Postby JimT » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:33 am

Good luck on getting the small fan shroud screws out. They get rusted in. I had to use a torch on three of the wife's in order to get them out. Used real low flame and kept it pointed away from the radiator as much as possible. Start putting some PB blaster or what ever other penetrating oil you use on them and the radiator mounting bolts to help get the screws and bolts out (had to use the torch on one of the radiator bolts too). The bolts I had to most trouble with getting out where the ones bolting the side radiator supports on. I used the old trick about hitting the top of the bolts with a hammer to help break them loose. My neighbor calls this "waking the bolts up".

Huh, seems like I use a torch on a lot of things. :lol:
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Postby Bugler » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:14 am

Waking up the bolt,,,,,,,,,I like that,,,,,,,that why my main tool is a big hammer. :D :D
I can fix it,,,get me a bigger hammer.

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Postby Dan England » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:26 am

I would think that an impact driver might work well here. This should apply both torque and vibration to the bolts for an easier removal. Dan

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Postby artc » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:31 pm

go carefully when removing these bolts. they are easy to break and time consuming to drill out and repair. heat them, 'wake them up' (i like that analogy!) with a hammer, try them wit ha 3/8 ratchet.... kroil them and let them sit... heat the bolts again. the heating expands the bolt in the casting and breaks the rust.

most importantly - dont overpower them - they like it right where they are - been there for years

every broken bolt equals 1 hour of not fun repair time. i try very hard not to have not fun repair time
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bob in CT
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Postby bob in CT » Sat Dec 15, 2007 7:40 pm

And use anti-seize when you put it together.

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Poncho
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Postby Poncho » Sat Dec 15, 2007 11:51 pm

I won't have to worry about the shroud, as I don't have one yet!
1950 Demonstrator Cub
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Poncho
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Postby Poncho » Mon Dec 17, 2007 9:53 pm

I forgot to ask, when replacing my new radiator do I torque (how much) the bolts or just tighten them?

Thanks, Poncho
1950 Demonstrator Cub
Woods 59 Mower
Cub 54A Blade
Cub 22 Sickle Mower
Model 100 McCormick spreader

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bob in CT
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Postby bob in CT » Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:13 pm

here is a handy bolt ID and torque chart from one of the "new" manuals I scanned:
http://members.cox.net/rmelusky1/Touque%20&%20Bolt%20ID.pdf

Note that this is not for a surface with a gasket. I would use a good gasket sealer, I like "ultra gray", and squeeze it in good on both sides with your thumb and forefinger. I suggest latex gloves for this! Use new lockwashers if the old ones are squeezed flat or if any of them are broken. They will take care of keeping the bolts tight. Just snug the bolts down a little bit and go all the around to get an even set. Then go around once more after the gasket gives a little. Don't forget the anti-seize.


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