Economical supplier for new head bolts???

[redfin]

Guys the prices I have seen on new head bolts suprised me.$ 2.50 and 5.50 per bolt for the different lengths.. Is this in line or can I get a set somewhere a little less $$$. Any suggestions?

Redfin

[Eugene]

For me only, the cheapest place to buy bolts, including grade 5 or 8 bolts, is one of the local auto parts stores. This store's price is much cheaper than other autoparts store or the hardware stores.

SO. Check prices at the local autoparts stores. Any of your local tractor dealers and or the hardware stores.

If you have a near by New Holland dealer you can get IH parts if you have the IH part number.

Speaking of surprises. The local hardware store is currently getting 15 cents each for a 3/8" lock washer, flat washer, and a nut. 55 cents for a 3/8" x 3 1/2" carriage bolt.

[George Willer]

Speaking of surprises. The local hardware store is currently getting 15 cents each for a 3/8" lock washer, flat washer, and a nut. 55 cents for a 3/8" x 3 1/2" carriage bolt.

Are they actually getting that... or merely asking?

[Joe Malinowski]

Do you have a fasten all dealer near you? Do a search for thier site. They may have them.

[BIGHOSS]

I buy all of my bolts, nuts and washers from our local Farmers Co-op or TSC stores. They are sold in bulk, much cheaper than hardware or big box stores. I don't know the exact price per pound. But, it is something like $1.50/lb for mild steel, $2.00 for grade 5 and a little over $3.00 for grade 8. They have the exact length for one size of head bolt ( I don't remember if it is the short one or long one). You have to cut about !/2" off the length of the other ones. You can stock up for just a few $$.

Another source is Fastenal. We have now retail stores in our area.

[Ed Harbur]

I'm not sure how many "higher grade" fasteners are used on a Cub; I suspect not many, but a word of caution might be in order here. Many fasteners sold as gr 5 and 8 aren't. They are counterfeit. Not such a big deal on a tractor (unless it's a rod bolt, or similar, I guess) but a really big problem if you're working on aircraft of race cars...

Bottom line is that if you really want the "good stuff" you've got to deal with a known source, and if the price is too good to be true...

[Buzzard Wing]

I would get factory head bolts from a dealer or TM. Aren't they different than just grade 5?

I found a great local fastener supplier and make a list if I am doing something 'major'. I always replace lockwashers, by the box they are cheap. I don't get it, but cotter pins are less than a penny!? They even had that long 5/8" bolt for the square tube snow plow pivot point in stock!

[Ron Luebke]

pete1941 told me of a place. i know he'll be on to post about this soon or just shoot him a pm.

[beaconlight]

Want to watch on head bolts for if too long they sit in the cooling water and rust up so removing them the next time is iffy.
The other reason is I believe the torqe puts a stretch in them. This makes re using them iffy too.

[bob in CT]

Cub head bolts are not one-time type bolts. Auto engines with aluminum heads use a bolt that stretches when it is torqued and when the head expands and contracts through normal use the bolts can stretch and shrink right along with the head like a rubber band to keep the proper tension and hold the head gasket seal. They can only be used once. There is no issue with reusing Cub head bolts as far as this particular point is concerned. Usually, bolts can be reused on cast iron engines but is is cheap insurance as long as you don't end up with counterfeit hardware as previously mentioned.

[Eugene]

Speaking of surprises. The local hardware store is currently getting 15 cents each for a 3/8" lock washer, flat washer, and a nut. 55 cents for a 3/8" x 3 1/2" carriage bolt.

Are they actually getting that... or merely asking?

Yup. Their are getting that price - at least from me. I needed 4 carriage bolt, washers and nuts. I can't afford to drive very far to save a dollar.

When the weather is nice I go for an evening walk - I pick up bolts, etc. from the street. I still pick up pennies but it's more profitable picking up nuts and bolts.

[KETCHAM]

I'm funny on using anything in a engine other that GOOD parts.I would pay the price and get them from a dealer.Some stuff I don't cut corners on.Kevin

[bob in CT]

Eugene,

I know what you mean. My projects were fed for years by a car I dismantled and saved every single screw, nut, bolt, and washer. I saved myself countless trips to the hardware store. Gas was cheap, but time away from the project was not alway convenient. I save all my junk bolts and metal now too. Every bit goes in a pail and eventually it gets recycled.

Now I use Mcmaster Carr for a lot of my hardware. it is nice to be able to select extra-heavy hardened washers to use with hardened bolts, or whatever else you exactly need from a big selection. When I need something on my shopping list, I add it to an order and save it online. I place the order when there is enough to make paying for the shipping a better value (or if I need something in a hurry) and I get everything the next day.

[Into Tractors]

Back when I got ahold of a few bad head bolts that broke during a head install, I decided to go a different route.....I went to my local fastenal and purchased double-ended/threaded studs and went that route.

McMaster-Carr sells them as well, as well as most "good" autoparts stores.

[pete1941]

Redfin, I sent you a PM. Pete