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Thick,gloppy oil sitting in bottom of filter canister

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Eugene
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Postby Eugene » Sat Feb 23, 2008 11:31 am

I think I'll jump in. The operators manual, Lubrication page 60 (in my manual), provides an explaination on how to clean the oil filter housing.

Running an engine using kerosene as a crankcase flush/lubricant. Not me. Cleaning out the oil filter housing with kerosene and an old paint brush, following the directions. No problem.

If the only problem you are having is sludge in the bottom of the oil filter housing - I would simply clean the housing, change oil and filter - then keep an eye on the oil condition.
I have an excuse. CRS.

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Sat Feb 23, 2008 4:42 pm

Yep Eugene, that is what I was suggesting... if you replace the stud/bolt in the filter housing (as the manual says) the kero should be limited to the filter housing only. I used more elbow grease that kero and used an acid brush to clean up the sticky stuff.

Also agree with pull the pan but that requires lots more energy and time.

For the internals I suggest Seafoam in the with the oil. Seems to work well.
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

Clem
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Postby Clem » Sun Feb 24, 2008 1:55 pm

Whenever I notice a disagreement on the forum over right and wrong procedure, I generally go straight to the owners manuals and read them over. After all IH built these things. I'll stick to the kerosene for now.

Johnnyrock70
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Postby Johnnyrock70 » Sun Feb 24, 2008 5:46 pm

I spoke to an old-timer today who gave me a suggestion that nobody else has suggested so far....how bout this:
place a light buld (100W) under the oil pan, and let it sit for a day or two. leave the oil pan bolt and oil canister bolt off. Over time, the vasaline-consistency gloppy stuff will eventually loosen, and drian.
What do you guys think????
J.R. in VA

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Postby LiL' Red » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:18 pm

Johnnyrock70 wrote:I spoke to an old-timer today who gave me a suggestion that nobody else has suggested so far....how bout this:
place a light buld (100W) under the oil pan, and let it sit for a day or two. leave the oil pan bolt and oil canister bolt off. Over time, the vasaline-consistency gloppy stuff will eventually loosen, and drian.
What do you guys think????
J.R. in VA

Your time and effort would be better spent removing the oil pan. Then you get it all out, not just part of it. Heating the pan is a very poor substitute for a putty knife, brush and solvent.
As to the flushing with kerosene as the book describes. that was recomended because detergent oils were not available, so once a year you flushed with kerosene to clean out 1 yrs worth of crud. That flushing was not intended to clean up 40 years worth of contamination. When you shake loose all that crud bear in mind this is a bypass filtration system. Ask yourself, where does the contaminated oil go before it hits that filter?

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tnestell
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Postby tnestell » Sun Feb 24, 2008 6:28 pm

My cousin brought a Pontiac over about 10 years ago and wanted to clean out the engine with kerosene so we drained the oil and added the kerosene. Ran the engine for about 5 minutes and things went bad. Sludge from the valve covers came loose and prevented the kerosene from daining back to the pan. Quit a mess, he did drive it home that day, but not for many more. Now I know a Cub is an L head and I would do it again, just not on an engine of mine. Ted


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