Carb flooding problem

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ScottyG
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Carb flooding problem

Postby ScottyG » Sun Aug 15, 2004 10:15 am

Now that I've fired my tractor up, the carburetor continuously floods causing the machine to sputter and die. I have to drain out the float bowl, I can then re-start with little problem but the cycle continues. The only way I can get a consistent run is to open the gas petcock about a 1/4 turn. This carb was overhauled, cleaned and air dried. Any suggestions?

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Postby Donny M » Sun Aug 15, 2004 11:15 am

Scotty,

It sounds like either the float is set wrong or there is something (dirt) keeping the float from closing. Check the manuals and the next time you have the bowl off give it a good going over.

Enjoy the race :!: :!:

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Postby Dale51 » Sun Aug 15, 2004 11:19 am

Sounds to me like the float is sticking or out of adjustment.
There is also that the needle valve is not seating.
Some of the kits had a little clip on the needle & if you didn't
get hooked on the float lever just right it will bind both the valve & the float.
If it's been broken I did it.
If its not broken wait till I touch it.

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Postby ScottyG » Sun Aug 15, 2004 11:32 am

Thanks everyone. I'll give the float a onceover and report back.

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Postby Cub-Bud » Sun Aug 15, 2004 12:56 pm

Hey Scotty,

Go to Rudi's site, http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/index.html, and lool for Lurker Carl's cub carb fixes. Carl's advice and techniques have helped me, and others, tremendously. 8)
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Aug 15, 2004 1:47 pm

Scotty, I've heard several people report some of the gaskets reached inside the carb enough to stop the float from moving.
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Postby Dale51 » Sun Aug 15, 2004 2:42 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Scotty, I've heard several people report some of the gaskets reached inside the carb enough to stop the float from moving.



Good point John I forgot about that.
If it's been broken I did it.

If its not broken wait till I touch it.

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Postby George Willer » Sun Aug 15, 2004 2:52 pm

John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:Scotty, I've heard several people report some of the gaskets reached inside the carb enough to stop the float from moving.


John,

I've heard that same thing many times... but then look at how far out of place a gasket would have to be to interfere with the float. Maybe 1/2"? I'd look for a different problem. The gasket (red washer) under the float needle cage, or the nozzle assembly, for example.
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sun Aug 15, 2004 5:56 pm

The ones I'd heard of were new ones that weren't cut correctly. Also on my Zenith it would only have to extend inside about 1/4 inch.
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Postby ScottyG » Tue Aug 17, 2004 6:39 am

John hit the nail on the head.

I bought one of the newer cut cork gaskets for the IH carb. Instead of the cut running flush with the edge of the carb on the float side, it had a belly in it and stuck out just far enough to interfere with the float. A quick snip here and there and a lot of gasket goop fixed the problem. Now if only I knew of somewhere to buy better gaskets.

Thanks for your help everyone. Now on to my electrical woes...
:(

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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Tue Aug 17, 2004 8:30 am

Scotty, you mentioned using gasket goop, don't know what type you used, but silicone gasket sealer will disolve in gasoline and mess up your fuel system.
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Postby Lurker Carl » Tue Aug 17, 2004 10:08 am

More things to check.

Make sure the casting is not interfering with the float travel. I have seen several carburators with the bowl casting bent enough for the float to hang up. I assume they get bent when someone beats on the carburetor to correct a fuel problem. Center the float in the bowl.

Straighten the warped throttle body casting where it mates with the bowl casting AND the intake manifold flange.

Check the fuel level in the carburetor and adjust the float accordingly.

Get your bowl gasket (the complete kit, actually) from CaseIH, not the aftermarket brands. The aftermarket gasket is too thick, poorly cut and swells when in contact with gasoline. You don't need gasket sealer unless there are problems above and beyond normal wear and tear.

Use thread sealant (fuel resistant) on the float cage and main nozzle. They are always immersed in fuel and are prone to leaking as the aluminum casting pits and corrodes.

I use the Kohler float needle and cage assy from Kohler brand carb kits for the old K series engines. After the junky aftermarket Cub carb kits, I stick with the manufacturer's brand for these troublesome areas.

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Postby ScottyG » Tue Aug 17, 2004 7:38 pm

Thanks for all of your good advice. The float is now free and clear and the gasket goop I used is fuel resistant. I needed this because of the rotten aftermarket cork gasket I bought. Can't imagine it will last more than a month.


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