How do you keep your Cub starting up when its cold?

[Rmankty]

You mention new points and condensor, but what about plugs? I had a similar problem, and new plugs helped a lot.

I added an oil pan heater last year, and that has also helped a lot.

Hello! Your post was dated 2012, I sent this to see how oil pan heater has served since then. I was thinking abouit buying a magnetic block heater. The specialty parts stores so far recommend a MBH1153(KAT) Is that what you used or one with adhesives? I would prefer the magnetic,if it works well. I know there are a number of brands-zerostart,Kat and others. Some reviews I have read said the plastic cover oveheated. Please let me know if you got your moneys worth or not. Thank you!

[bythepond88]

Definitely get the magnetic, but I think 300 watts may be serious overkill. I bought a 50 watt adhesive (I think it was a Kat), and even though I cleaned off the underside of the oil pan well, it wouldn't stick. I ended up using a strap to hold it in place, and it is small enough and stiff enough that that works pretty well. I got the 50 watt model because that was what was recommended for the Cub's capacity. It definitely helps, but after using it, I think I would go 75 (if available) or 100 if I were to replace this one. I only use it when the temp is below 20, as she turns over pretty smartly without help down to that temp (she has her own cubhouse). Hope this helps.

[Gary S.]

Our '49 bought in '60 handles the snow plowing and has always been inside a barn since we owned it. It has always started hard but once running it's no problem. A switch to 10w really helped but it never started like our 8n. At work someone thru out a propane manhole heater the kind with a 10 ft 8" vinyl hose. I got it working and would hang the hose over the carb, after about 3 minutes it would fire right up so nice that I went back to 10w 30 oil. Well it quit working parts are hard and expensive to get so I tried the same thing with my heat gun,I heat the manifold for a few and off we go. I have always wondered if something like a hair drier connected to the air cleaner inlet would do the same. Our 59 thats just used for mowing won't start if it gets down to the 50's,it has a Zenith and for some reason requires the throttle control fully back, the 49 on the other hand needs full throttle to start cold. In it's defence ,the 59 is tired and really needs a engine rebuild

[jckengr]

Hi; Sorry to hear about your difficulty, however I struggled with the similar cold weather start problem on a '47 cub when I had a snow removal route while in college. My never fail solution was a 3 to 4 qt. boiling water bath poured over the intake manifold from end to end. Forget the carb as it will warm some with the intake warm up, however a good part of the problem is fuel distribution to the #1 & #4 cylinders.

I have since discovered that my '50 cub starts quite easily, in temperatures down to 10 degrees, with 2 changes relative to the '47.
1-Use a 12 volt battery (The starter accepts 12 volts very well without any changes, however the light bulbs will require changing and I used an alternator for charging.)
2-I have a higher compression engine ( .030 over pistons and .030 shaved head)

I use the 10 degree figure to indicated temperatures that I experienced but not to indicate the minimum for a successful start. For comparison I figured my '47 was good for a unaided start at temperatures above 32 degrees.

Best wishes for the new year,

John K

[Sapper]

I use a 50w magnetic heater on the pan and I wrap the tractor in an insulated canvas tarp. The battery is kept up with a maintainer on the garage bench. I only use premium in winter, so no ethanol. Seafoam always. Three hours on the heater and the Cub fires up on the third crank. Matt mentioned careful choke use in an earlier post and I agree.

It starts in -30 and yeouch windchill. I gotta get a seat cushion!

[1978cub]

The late model cubs with the 12 Volt Battery sure made a big difference for cold starting for me.

[EZ]

We get some darn cold days up here, just south of the North Pole.
I have great success with a magnetic heat block stuck to the bottom of the oil pan for a few hours. Fires right up.

[smallfarm]

If you run it every day it should start easier, think of all the fun you can have. Just be certain to give it a good workout so that it is hot enough to get the "fresh start' condensation of moisture out of everything. There is an old cartoon of about starting an old T Ford. Warm oil from the stove, blow torch etc. I've not had any great problem with cub's in the cold, but thin oil makes a huge difference in cranking speed and speed is a must to start in the cold.

EXTREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEME caution with electric heaters ESPECIALLY light bulbs around gasoline. Just a drip may result in an unpleasant event. Local Chrysler dealer lost their shop and showroom about 30 years ago.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

.........EXTREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEME caution with electric heaters ESPECIALLY light bulbs around gasoline. Just a drip may result in an unpleasant event. Local Chrysler dealer lost their shop and showroom about 30 years ago.

One of the members of this forum or the old ATIS forum, I don't remember which, had that happen to his father. He was trying to blow out trash/rust that had gotten into the fuel line, and the gas tank bubbled over and ran onto his trouble light. He was very badly burned, in addition to loosing his tractor, shop, and everything in it.

[Peter Person]

I bought one of these several years ago at Tractor Supply.


It was 15 degrees this morning, pulled the choke, starter rod, and it came to life on the 2nd or 3rd crank. Distributer ignition, new battery last spring, rebuilt generator and new USA made voltage regulator at Thanksgiving along with a new set of plugs.

Peter

[ad356]

if i know that i am expecting a combination of snow and cold i will hook the battery up to a charger so the engine will spin over as fast as possible . i will take the air cleaner hose off and place my hand over the carburetor inlet so it really chokes it. i also have a can of starter fluid that i use sparingly. as long as i have some patience the tractor has never failed to start. i think the updraft carburetor technology really is the not the best for these types of conditions. i used to have a walk behind snowblower, it was a toro with the old flat head briggs. it also had an updraft carburetor and it too did not like to start in the cold. the tractor has proven to be reliable but i think i would be better with a 12v system. it was 8 degrees out tonight and i had it started in 5 minutes. i will say that it is always an exciting event. the way it fires up, its like i it starts on 1 or 2 cylinders and the rest slowly start firing. once it stays running i reduce power to idle and let it run for 5-10 minutes before i even attempt to move it. once the engine is up to temperature it will run in any conditions with no issues. i guess its just the nature of the beast 67 year old tech. reliable and simple but cold blooded.

[LynchCub]

I am having a similar issue with my 1947 Cub when it gets below 20 or so. I will try some of the things here (Lighter oil, heating the block and I already use the Seafoam). I recently had the starter rebuilt and it seems to be functioning okay. It's the old 6 volt system.

I do have a question about hand cranking the motor, Does anyone have any good tips for this? I tried it once and it nearly broke my shoulder and I am not a small guy. It kicked back so hard my shoulder and wrist were hurting for a good week. Any tips on this would be greatly appreciated. I plowed twice already and it hasn't started now since last Friday (Sat and Sun were both in the teens).

[Bigdog]

A couple of things about hand-crank starting a cub. (or any motor for that matter)
First - verify the timing is not advanced to before top dead center. That is why they kick. If the timing is at TDC there is way less chance of kick back.
Secondly - when you grasp the crank handle avoid wrapping your thumb around the handle. It is an odd grip and sometimes hard to get used to but if your thumb is not wrapped around the handle and the crank kicks back it will pull the crank handle from your fingers rather than pull your hand into the path of the crank. You do not have to complete full circle rotations of the crank. Short upward strokes work best.

[Jim Becker]

As Bigdog said, having the timing set properly is the key to safe crank starting. I try to follow the rule of never crank starting anything I don't own. You never know when you might be following somebody that thinks he can time an engine "by ear" or make some other simple mistake that gives it too much advance. A malfunctioning impulse coupling on a magneto is another potential hazard. Here is a video I made that shows proper hand cranking procedure, including the proper grip of the handle.

[Mortgaged]

Nice Videos! I especially like how you took the time to go over the safety items first. Especially making sure the tractor is in neutral before cranking.