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Cub--chapter 2--How to get the bolts out w/out messing up!

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Galla Creek Arky
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Cub--chapter 2--How to get the bolts out w/out messing up!

Postby Galla Creek Arky » Tue May 03, 2005 5:27 pm

Image

How can I remove these two bolts from my seat bracket. I have tried
all afternoon and cannot get them out. I would like to remove them without messing up the casting. I have tried pentatrating oil (soaked for
2 days) with no luck. The wrench does not fit them anymore. Calling all experts--help, help!

I added 4 pictures to the cub folder if anyone wants to look. 1-4 are old pictures and starting with number 5 I took them today! let me know if you get tired of looking at my '57 Cub!

http://www.cswnet.com/~lrenfroe/cub/
Larry Renfroe
488 Galla Creek Lane
Pottsville, AR. 72858
479 890 8090
I have a 1957 Farmall Cub I am restoring.
I have a 1973 Farmall Cub that I use for mowing and 1974 Farmall Cub for gardening.

Alabamacub
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Postby Alabamacub » Tue May 03, 2005 5:34 pm

You can use a socket called bolt out sold by Sears. It will take hold of the bolt but you do not want to twist it off. Have you tried PB Blast? Good luck.

Robert
Alabamacub

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Rudi
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Postby Rudi » Tue May 03, 2005 5:40 pm

Larry:

What you need is a set of Bolt Outs from Sears. NAPA also sells a similar product, but I am not sure what the quality is like. My daughters bought me the starter set of Bolt Outs for Christmas 2 years ago and then the completer set for Father's Day. Last spring was the first chance I got to use em on Jethro's seat base bolts - worked like a charm :!:
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johnbron
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Postby johnbron » Tue May 03, 2005 5:44 pm

On the 2 seat bolts (3/4 I think) bolt head. I used an extension and and my electric impact wrench on both my Cubs. For the battery box I had to use a Sears bolt-out because they were to far gone for a socket by the Batt acid.
Then came Bronson

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Postby Bruce Sanford » Tue May 03, 2005 5:46 pm

I had the same problem,so this is what I did.I heated them nice and hot and cooled them with cold water.Each time I did this I tapped them with a hammer. I put a set of vice grips on the bolt with a piece of pipe as an extender. When they let go I thought they broke,but they did not. But that is the chance I was prepared to take.Good Luck 8) :lol: Bruce
owner of 48 fcub 34206 Cub cadets 108/102 with mower,snow thrower and blade

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Postby beaconlight » Tue May 03, 2005 6:05 pm

The worse thing in the world to get bolts out of if a steam boiler. It can be done though. You penetrateing oil it, heat it, penetrating oil it every day for a week or two. You hit it with a hammer, not so hard as break things but enough to vibrate and crush rust in the threads. You can try an air or electric impact wrench. There is also a hand inpact wrench. You hit it with a hammer and it lossens stuck bolts and nuts. The trick is not to break off the bolt.
After you get the bolt out run a tap through the threads to clean them up. I put everything back with never sieze.

Bill
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George Willer
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Postby George Willer » Tue May 03, 2005 6:50 pm

The best luck I have had is with a dull chisel in a good 2" stroke air chisel. Once it gets a bite I rattle it in the direction that will turn it. The rust gives up after a few thousand impacts.
George Willer
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Dan England
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Postby Dan England » Tue May 03, 2005 6:51 pm

Larry: On my cub, battery acid had leaked onto the bolts holding the seat pedestal in place. My first attempts resulted in rounding the heads with the bolts still firmly in place. I switched to Bolt-outs and soon had bolts out and the pedestal removed. Bolt-outs work on rounded heads and, if a head is twisted off, select a smaller size and walk the stem out. I bought two sets (10 sizes) a couple of years ago at $20.00 per set. Sears sometimes runs specials at a lower price but they are worth the money at either special or regular price. Dan

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Jim Hudson
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Postby Jim Hudson » Tue May 03, 2005 9:43 pm

HOT WRENCH
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Postby WKPoor » Tue May 03, 2005 10:01 pm

I'm with Jim, Blue tip wrench would make quick work of those bolts. And it won't hurt the cast either.

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Kevin
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Postby Kevin » Tue May 03, 2005 10:46 pm

i had the same problem soaked them with PB BLaster couple days then with bolt head slightly stripped I took my angle grinder and touched it up till a 6 pt socket fit on and they came out with a little persuasion
good luck
Kevin's 49er

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Patbretagne
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Postby Patbretagne » Wed May 04, 2005 3:05 am

The old "Hot Spanner" is a wonder, Eh?

I like the expression "Blue Tip Wrench" it's good.

Best of luck anyhow!
Pat

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Galla Creek Arky
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Poor man with Poor ways!

Postby Galla Creek Arky » Wed May 04, 2005 7:17 am

Don't have a hot wrench or bolt out--I am a poor man with poor ways.
Larry Renfroe

488 Galla Creek Lane

Pottsville, AR. 72858

479 890 8090

I have a 1957 Farmall Cub I am restoring.

I have a 1973 Farmall Cub that I use for mowing and 1974 Farmall Cub for gardening.

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Cub Chapter two

Postby Little Indy » Wed May 04, 2005 7:53 am

A fairing good penetrating oil is oil of wintergreen. If you smell it might remind of the mystery in Marvel's oil?
Si hoc legere scis,nimium eruditionis habes.

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freebird
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Postby freebird » Wed May 04, 2005 9:32 am

Sears bolt-out. What a great tool. Just got the completer set as a gift last week. the bolts holding my battery box were covered with old battery corrosion. I had to brush and dig my way down, but I did it. I used some penetrant oil too.
Tell the truth, there's less to remember!

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