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Grader Blade
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 3:38 pm
- Zip Code: 98953
- Tractors Owned: 1953 Farmall Cub
- Location: Zillah, Washington
Grader Blade
I bought a blade a few weeks ago for my cub. This weekend, I put it together and mounted it on the tractor. I realize that this is an old piece of equipment and everything is not as tight as when it was new. Initially, the blade would raise unevenly. But after some bending and tightening and adding a couple of washers on one side of the hitch, things evened out. While people in the east were using their cubs to clear snow from their driveways, I was using my cub to grade my Dad's driveway. I will do mine next weekend.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 283
- Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 3:33 am
- Zip Code: 55733
- Tractors Owned: 1949 FCUB
- Location: MN, Esko - just West of Duluth
Re: Grader Blade
A blade in the grader position is great. Be careful how hard you hit rocks and stuff. We had a grader blade on our first Cub and I cracked the final drive housing just next to the seat post. I have a drag behind grader from DR now that works wonderfully and just bounces up if I hit something solid and immovable. Far less of a chance of breaking anything on the new "old" tractor. I am looking for that particular blade for snow. I've got a 10 hp walk behind snow blower, but there's lots of times up here when getting it out seems too much effort for 4 inches of the light fluffy stuff.
Randy
Machinist since 1973
15 years in the toolroom with Tool & Die Maker experience
Machinist since 1973
15 years in the toolroom with Tool & Die Maker experience
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:37 am
- Zip Code: 44134
- Tractors Owned: 1949 & 1951 Farmall Cubs
Several Snapper Garden Tractors - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio
Re: Grader Blade
I can't agree more than with the last post. In fact, below is an excerpt from the book:
"Cub leveling and grader blades were designed and intended to level and grade loose dirt and perform light dozer jobs as noted in the 54A-L-54 manual"
You surely want to be cautious about striking fixed objects. It is also good practice to check all of the blade's fasteners and mounting bolts after every use as they tend to loosen after hard use. This is especially critical if the blade is moved to the front utilizing the implement mounting holes.
"Cub leveling and grader blades were designed and intended to level and grade loose dirt and perform light dozer jobs as noted in the 54A-L-54 manual"
You surely want to be cautious about striking fixed objects. It is also good practice to check all of the blade's fasteners and mounting bolts after every use as they tend to loosen after hard use. This is especially critical if the blade is moved to the front utilizing the implement mounting holes.
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 438
- Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 1:37 am
- Zip Code: 44134
- Tractors Owned: 1949 & 1951 Farmall Cubs
Several Snapper Garden Tractors - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Southern Suburbs of Cleveland, Ohio
Re: Grader Blade
In my last post I forgot to mention that if you hadn't noticed, that blade assembly is adjustable to create a road crown. Besides angling left to right, as well as leaned forward or back, there is another adjustment where the frame meets the blade.
There are three or more holes on brackets welded on both sides of the plow where the frame connects. Two pins allow the blade to rotate left high, right low or vice versa.
If those pins are not in the the same holes, perhaps that was why you had to add washers
There are three or more holes on brackets welded on both sides of the plow where the frame connects. Two pins allow the blade to rotate left high, right low or vice versa.
If those pins are not in the the same holes, perhaps that was why you had to add washers
"HAVE ALL YOUR DELIVERIES MADE BY UNION DRIVERS"
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2012 3:38 pm
- Zip Code: 98953
- Tractors Owned: 1953 Farmall Cub
- Location: Zillah, Washington
Re: Grader Blade
Thanks for the advice. I will leave the heavy duty grading for the John Deere 520 and Killefer blade. The blade is set level. The problem, I think, lies with the shaft and bracket that bolt to the drawbar. The shaft is no longer very straight and the holes have gotten a bit larger than original.
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- 10+ Years
Re: Grader Blade
Also, when belly mounted and grading, I find that 1st gear at an idle works best. When you get a hard spot or a blade full, the governor will kick in and pull through.
More throttle or a higher gear will just cause the tires to spin and make hole, with the downpressure of the blade trying to make a cut.
More throttle or a higher gear will just cause the tires to spin and make hole, with the downpressure of the blade trying to make a cut.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 2680
- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 11:35 am
- Zip Code: 14072
- eBay ID: toysforjake
- Tractors Owned: Lots of Cub Cadets!
1951 Farmall Cub
1977 IH Cub
1966 IH Cub
1965 IH Lo Boy
1964 IH Lo Boy
1949 Farmall Cub
Several IH 154 Lo Boys
1979 IH 184 Lo Boy
Simplicity 4416 Sovereign
Simplicity Conquest
Simplicity Legacy 4x4 Diesel
Mitsubishi MT180D 4x4 Diesel - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: Grand Island, NY
Re: Grader Blade
The Cub blade mounted in the grader position is quite possibly my favorite feature on the Cub. I've graded an acre of my back yard with one, and loved every minute of it. I typically leave mine mounted this way all year around because it's not really in the way, can still use the drawbar, and if I till up something and need to level it out I'm all set.
Here is a video my son shot last month. No weights, and I could have kept going all day long!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DYPXSsjLpw
Here is a video my son shot last month. No weights, and I could have kept going all day long!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DYPXSsjLpw
Cub Cadets 682, 1811, 1864, Simplicity Legacy XL 4x4 Diesel with FEL, 60" mower, 50" Tiller
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:21 am
- Zip Code: 27574
Re: Grader Blade
My question is whether the drag behind blade is attached fixed to the rear or is it in a PTO? My 53 cub has a belly mower that is belt driven from the rear axle to the mower. Can I still add the drag behind, even though it will be fixed and not go up and down?
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- Team Cub
- Posts: 11880
- Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 8:02 pm
- Zip Code: 80501
- Tractors Owned: Cubs, MH Pony, Shaw, Allis G, 1934 Silver King, JD LA and LI, Gibson D, David Bradley Tri-Trac
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: CO, Longmont
Re: Grader Blade
IH only made a rear blade for the fast hitch. To answer your question you would need to find out if the DR blade (or other brands) mounted to the rear finals or to the drawbar or some other combination.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 283
- Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2009 3:33 am
- Zip Code: 55733
- Tractors Owned: 1949 FCUB
- Location: MN, Esko - just West of Duluth
Re: Grader Blade
Bob McCarty wrote:IH only made a rear blade for the fast hitch. To answer your question you would need to find out if the DR blade (or other brands) mounted to the rear finals or to the drawbar or some other combination.
Bob
The DR grader is a simple drag. It has its own raising and lowering mechanism controlled by a remote control you wear around your neck. There is no PTO or touch control involvement at all. It does have its drawbacks. I have not yet figured out how to put a crown in the driveway, and it only digs in about a half inch at a time. But it did a perfect job leveling and filling in potholes on my 200+ foot gravel driveway.
Randy
Machinist since 1973
15 years in the toolroom with Tool & Die Maker experience
Machinist since 1973
15 years in the toolroom with Tool & Die Maker experience
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