Farmall Cub Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cub related issues.
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So I've been mowing recently with the rears dished out for greater stability but now want to tackle the front. I'm thinking this is going to be near impossible since the tie rods are bent.
Is there any way somebody can give me a step by step on how they would widen a perfectly functional front end? If I can get the bare minimum, I might be able to work with the bent tie rods. I know it's going to take a lot of lubrication and probably some heat but instead of going in blind, I'm hoping for some guidance.
During the restoration of Rex'48 I had to complete both tasks you're wanting to undertake.
Tie rods were removed and I used my press to straighten them so they would come apart. Once apart I straightened them more on the press until they slid in and out easily. I used a bent wire with emery paper and my drill to clean the inside of the tubes. Work great now.
Front Axle - I got mine apart with Kroil over a period of about a week. One side was easy as it had been greased. The other side need lots more kroil, heat and a hardwood block to drive it out against the steering knuckle. I cleaned the inside of the tube with course sand paper in a heavy wire and drill.
This post gives you another solution depending on your shop setup. My signature has a link where you can see the results.
It will depend on your tractors front end as to how easy or rather how difficult it will be. It's pretty straight forward IF everything goes well. The biggest problem you will probably encounter is actually moving the "adjustable" axle tubes once you have them unclamped and unpinned. I had my axle off and used a couple bottle jacks to get it apart. The tie rods are not a big problem as they can be straightened pretty well in a bench vice once you get them apart. Good luck.
Attachments - 193 plow - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - 59C1 Woods mower - drag harrows
Thanks guys. Is there any special way to pull the tie rods off? I dont have the Cub at home anymore and can't see what's what without it being directly in front of me. I'm going to make an attempt to get over to where I'm temporarily housing it tomorrow and just want to make sure I have all unanswered questions out of the way. I'm in the process of selling my house. I had to clear out the garage and the Cub was one of the big ticket items to go. Feels empty haha
To remove them from the wheel end, you have to pull the cotter pin, then unscrew the block from the end of the tube.
To remove them from the middle, remove the bolt holding the "clamshell" together at the steering arm.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
Couldnt get them removed from the middle to save my life! I thought I was going to break the dang thing. Is there a better way than just trying to yank em out after pulling out the one bolt in the center?
I used 2 muffler clamps to attatch a rock bar to the front of the wheel spndles behind the tire. Spray inside the axle tube with a good penetrating oil. Then just lay on it and move it a little at a time. With each small movement, yure gettibng oil into the tube and should make it easier after a while. AFter I got mine out, I used an engine cylinder hone to clean out the old rust out of the tube. I then cleaned up the axle extensions with sand paper. And before I reinserted them into the axle tube, I greased them liberally.
Tractors are like watermelons: the RED is good and you throw away the GREEN.
By the "one bolt in the center" do you mean the axle pivot pin or the adjustable axle pins? I have a few questions for you below.
1. Is the axle off the tractor?
2. Have you removed the clamps on both sides?
3. Have you used two cold chisels to driven lengthwise into the expansion slots to break the rust near the outside. You have to be careful not to over expand the slots - you can crack the back side. I used 3/16 key stock, sharpened like a cold chisel so I could leave them in for assembly.
4. Have you used KROIL many times per day for a week or more? This works better with the axle off the tractor when you can stand it up and let it run.
5. Have you used heat and lots of it? Heat along with tapping with hammer (not so hard you dent it) to loosen rust.
It took me over a week to get mine freed up.
I think after spening the better part of today trying to straighten and extend the tie rods, it's time to throw in the towel. I was able to separate the tie rods and attempted to heat, lubricate, cool, heat again, straighten and nothing happened. The Cub isnt at my house to work on at my leisure and it's become too much of a burden right now to attempt to modify. I hate the way it looks with the narrow cront end and dished out rear wheels. I guess I'll switch the wheels back to the stock setting. I feel that I just need to suck it up and buy new tie rods
Last edited by AgTires4295 on Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The tie rods should not require heat to bend. If you remove them from the tractor, so you can get Kroil to run down inside - then you use your vice or shop press to slowly bend the bend out. The inner won't come out till the tie rod outer shaft is straight or mostly straight. Remember you can't use heat to get the outer and the inner hot enough at the same time.
I'd recommend taking them off and carefully straighten them - then stand them up and Kroil the heck out of them for days. Then back into the vice and get the inner rod moving slowly - Mine started turning a 1/32" at a time. Then back vertical for more Kroil.
I then straightened them independently until they slid in and out easily.
On your axle - I know mine would not have come apart on the tractor. I had to stand it up and let the Kroil run down on all sides.
If you want to have a chat - send me a PM and I'll give you my phone number.
Or good used ones.
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
Thanks Ken. I might take you up on that someday when I can devote more time to it. If it was in the garage, sure. But it's not accessible and I need it in operating condition for Field Days of the Past in 2 weeks.
While you are still driving it around loosen the large clamps on the axle after putting a slightly smaller pin/bolt in the hole. If the axles are frozen this will help to loosen them. Rough ground and changing directions often recomended.
You can easily tell when they are loose or if it will require a bigger hammer, lol! Almost any tie rod can be made useful, question is how nice do you want it to look? Unless the they are like pretzels and rusted solid they can be repaired to function.
"It is impossible for a man to learn what he thinks he already knows." -Epictetus
252646 & 221525. 195897 (Gone but not forgotten!)
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