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With engine running and the clutch depressed, the PTO shifter will not engage. The shaft continues to spin or something prevents the shaft from stopping in order for the PTO lever to engage.
Clutch adjustment issue or something else?
Has this PTO worked properly until this problem? Will it engage if you stop the shaft by hand?
Read this thread... viewtopic.php?f=1&t=81009
MD, Deep Creek Lake
"1950 Something" Farmall Cub
1977 International Cub w/FH
1978 International Cub
1948 Farmall Super A
1951 Farmall Super C w/FH
The PTO worked in the past. Yes, read thru that thread and it didn't seem to apply.
To clarify: when the tractor is running, the PTO lever is not engaged, and the PTO itself is not spinning. Depressing the clutch pedal and waiting for the tranny shaft to come to a stop so I can engage the PTO, but the shaft does not stop. Thus, the PTO cannot be engaged by the lever.
So, I'm hearing that I should remove the PTO shaft, grease the bushing (aka, end of PTO shaft) and reassemble? Right?
Probably would not hurt to grease both ends, but I think Scrivet is referring to the pilot bushing at the other end of the shaft, near the engine freewheel (clutch end).
[quote="Bill V in Md"... Scrivet is referring to the pilot bushing at the other end of the shaft, near the engine freewheel (clutch end).[/quote]
That would be the one causing this particular problem.
"The probability of life originating from accident is comparable to the probability of the unabridged dictionary resulting from an explosion in a printing shop." Edwin Conklin, biologist
Yep...agree with the others. It is the front pilot bushing that is dry and not allowing the shaft to stop. To check this, put the tractor in gear (clutch depressed). Gears will probably grind a little getting into gear. Keep clutch depressed and then try to engage the PTO shifter. Should now go into gear and work normally.
Unfortunately, that means a split at the front of the bell housing to get to that bushing and shaft end...Merlin is going to need this repair this fall
Mike (Happy as a Lark in Allison Park, PA)
Check out my Restoration Thread (1955 Cub, Lewis)
I agree with the others, the input shaft could be the problem. Can you get it in gear with the engine running? Does the tranny grind when you do? Although it doesn't rule out the clutch either.
If you can get it into gear then you can probably engage the PTO.
Attachments - 193 plow - 144 cultivator - 22 mower - 28A disc harrow - 54 leveling blade - Woods 59C2 - drag harrows - Mott D9 flail
Yes, I'm referring to the pilot bushing in the end of the engine crankshaft up by the flywheel. Not the PTO bushing in the rear end.
Pictures from TM
There's several threads about how to get to it.
Park pointing downhill on the steepest incline you can find. Block wheels.
Long straw(s) on favorite lubricant, reach through clutch handhole and spray on shaft as far forward as you can get. Give time to run down shaft to bushing.
Try the short version, first
'60 FH Lo-Boy
'57 FH Cub "Rusty"
'56 FH Cub
(2) '48 Cubs
'75 IH 140 w/1000 loader
C-3 mower, FH Woods 42F, 22 sickle (2), 54A blade, L-54 blade, 194 plow, FH L-38 disk, FH LB disk, 144 cultivators, FH platform carrier
As always, expert advice.
With the engine running, the tranny gears are (sometimes) hard to shift into; especially from N to 1st. But at other times, I can go from R to 1st, or 2nd and 3rd w/o any noise or resistance. It's just when it's in N with clutch depressed, that the engine/tranny shaft won't stop or slow down enough to move the PTO lever to engage.
Thanks, Scrivet. I'll try the short version first.
From your latest description, the problem is definitely at the pilot bushing. You can shift from gear to gear without a problem, because the wheels are mechanically connected to the transmission, so when the wheels stop, the transmission, including the input shaft, are also stopped.
I had the same symptoms, and lubing the pilot bushing solved them. Of course, I didn't know about the shortcut at the time.
Eddie - a 1959 International Lo-Boy named after my father in law, who who bought her new.
As usual, one thing turns into another...
Tried Scrivet's short version and it worked, but while pointing downhill, tranny oil that had leaked and pooled in the torque tube began running out. That reminded me that I had not replaced the rear end seals on this Cub when I first re-did it in 2009. Ordered seals last week from TM Tractor (great service and fast shipping!!) and they arrived on Wednesday. Split the tractor yesterday afternoon and will finish up this week. Also decided to replace the clutch pilot bushing while split.
BTW--did find out why my clutch didn't totally engage. The clutch operating rod was bent and the clutch pedal lever (inside the torque tube) was pushed back. So, earlier, when I tried to adjust the clutch operating yoke forward, I was running out of threads. I'll straighten the rod and re-adjust the pedal lever forward, so the TOB has more forward movement to engage the clutch fingers. This should really help shifting.
Will also grease the new pilot shaft bearing to avoid any more sticky PTO issues.
Glad it worked, but I can't take credit for the idea, I've seen it on the forum before. With your leaking transmission you just needed to get it pointed down a steeper hill and it would of oiled itself
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