Governor bumper spring

[twotone]

I just did the roll pin thing last week. I cut the roll pins to length so they wouldn't protrude past the original holes, then just squeezed them in the hole with a pair of pliers. You may have to drill the holes a little smaller than the pin for a good fit. I got lucky and didn't have to drill.

[Posco]

The cast lever is a little fragile, so I'd be careful about peening it. You can probably end up with a tight enough press fit, or use some JB to hold the roll pin in place. TM Tractor (sponsor at the bottom of the page) has the springs.

Bob

Thanks for the info.

[Posco]

Any tricks to removing the governor rockshaft bearing? Will it slide right out or will it need some persuasion?

[twotone]

I used a small socket and tapped it out, and put the new one in the same way.

[Hengy]

Bill Hudson speaks the truth about the roll pin replacement procedure. He did it on Merlin, it sure helped A LOT. No JB weld is needed as long as the roll pin is cut to the correct length. The springs will hold it in place and keep it captive. Also, as was mentioned, only drill the holes just to size for a tight fit.

Mike

[Posco]

Has it been stated here that you can remove the governor...at least theoretically...without taking the entire tractor apart? I'm not seeing that happening. Fat fingers, dark, bolts to close to other bolts. Am I missing something?

[twotone]

I removed my governor by removing the hood, generator, both belts. You can carefully remove the gov by pulling it out between the fan blades. It's tight, but can be done. edit: pull out the linkage so all that's left is the gov.

[Posco]

I used a small socket and tapped it out, and put the new one in the same way.

From the inside out? I'm making progress. The governor throttle lever was almost frozen in place. Freed it, cleaned it, lubed it.

[twotone]

From the outside in.

[Posco]

From the outside in.

Does that go for the seal as well?

[twotone]

The seal goes in after you install the new needle bearing. The bearing on mine was flush with gov housing on the inside and the seal was flush with the housing on the outside.

[Posco]

The seal goes in after you install the new needle bearing. The bearing on mine was flush with gov housing on the inside and the seal was flush with the housing on the outside.

Got ya, I think. The seal comes out, not pushes through to the inside to remove? It's a bear to get out.

[Posco]

I've got the seal out, now it's the bearing.

[twotone]

I just pop the seal out with a screwdriver. It ruins the seal, but that doesn't matter. Now just find a socket the same diameter as the bearing, and drive it into the gov. When installing the new bearing, start from the outside and carefully drive it in until it is flush with the inside of the gov. Then carefully tap the seal in until it is flush with the outside of the gov.

[Posco]

I just pop the seal out with a screwdriver. It ruins the seal, but that doesn't matter. Now just find a socket the same diameter as the bearing, and drive it into the gov. When installing the new bearing, start from the outside and carefully drive it in until it is flush with the inside of the gov. Then carefully tap the seal in until it is flush with the outside of the gov.

Thanks for your help, Tom, much appreciated. I should notice a considerable improvement once I get the governor back in place. I do have another area of concern though.

When I dismantled the governor as per Gary Boutwell's excellent tutorial, I noticed a small bearing loose in the governor housing. The diagram refers to it as a 'governor thrust ball bearing'. It shows a 'governor sleeve stop ring' which I did not see nor did I notice an indent in the shaft to hold one in position.

Any suggestions?