New rebuild- carb or ignition problem

[CraigKennedy]

for the coil getting hot, check your wiring at your ignition switch on the dash, I had got the wires switched around, and my coil would get hotter than hell just sitting there. ..........

Is this on a regular distributor kill switch (two wiring terminals, pull knob out to run, push in to kill) that this happened?

Yes, had them switched around backwards, tractor would crank with the switch in or out if this is the problem

[Scrivet]

for the coil getting hot, check your wiring at your ignition switch on the dash, I had got the wires switched around, and my coil would get hotter than hell just sitting there. ..........

Is this on a regular distributor kill switch (two wiring terminals, pull knob out to run, push in to kill) that this happened?

Yes, had them switched around backwards, tractor would crank with the switch in or out if this is the problem

If that is the case you had some other problem. Only reversing the wires on the switch doesn't make any difference in the operation of the switch. The tractor will "crank" with the switch in either position, it will ony start and run with the switch pulled out. If by "crank" you mean it would start and run in either position then you probably had the terminals or wires touching (easy to do and not notice in the cramped area it's in) which would negate the operation of the switch. This would be the same electrically as having the switch pulled out while operating the tractor. Which wouldn't, by itself, cause the coil to get extremely hot. Still thinking you had/have some other problem.

[Billy balls]

Thanks, haven't got back to it this week. I will this weekend. Bought a new coil , points, condenser through Napa. Will recheck the firing order. Reset timing and see what happens.

[Scrivet]

Yes, had them switched around backwards, tractor would crank with the switch in or out if this is the problem

If that is the case you had some other problem. Only reversing the wires on the switch doesn't make any difference in the operation of the switch. The tractor will "crank" with the switch in either position, it will ony start and run with the switch pulled out. If by "crank" you mean it would start and run in either position then you probably had the terminals or wires touching (easy to do and not notice in the cramped area it's in) which would negate the operation of the switch. This would be the same electrically as having the switch pulled out while operating the tractor. Which wouldn't, by itself, cause the coil to get extremely hot. Still thinking you had/have some other problem.

Ran this through my head a little more and IF the engine was in a position that the points were closed, with the tractor not running, and the switch on (or terminals touching), then that could cause the coil to heat up. The only electrical load between the battery and ground in this set of circumstances would be the coil. Which is also why you should NEVER leave the switch out for more than a few seconds with the engine not turning.

[CraigKennedy]

"you had some other problem. Only reversing the wires on the switch doesn't make any difference in the operation of the switch. The tractor will "crank" with the switch in either position, it will ony start and run with the switch pulled out. If by "crank" you mean it would start and run in either position then you probably had the terminals or wires touching (easy to do and not notice in the cramped area it's in) which would negate the operation of the switch. This would be the same electrically as having the switch pulled out while operating the tractor. Which wouldn't, by itself, cause the coil to get extremely hot. Still thinking you had/have some other problem.[/quote]"


-By CRANK I mean CRANK. If the wires are on the switch backwards the tractor will CRANK with it in or out and the coil will get hot just sitting there. I WAS there.

[CraigKennedy]

Thanks, haven't got back to it this week. I will this weekend. Bought a new coil , points, condenser through Napa. Will recheck the firing order. Reset timing and see what happens.

Also while replacing points condenser, take sure your ammeter shows charge when you connect the battery back, this shows if the points are open or not. It tells you in the timing section of the manual

[Smokeycub]

Craig, It can be frustrating. It does sound like a coil problem. Is it possible they sent you a 6v coil? The new NAPA coil may be all you need. Just to be sure double check the firing order and how the coil and switch are wired. Let us know how it turns out! It's usually something pretty simple, it's just a matter of finding it.

[Billy balls]

POINTS where junk. Brand new points where junk. A long time tractor mechanic and restorer tipped me off. Told him of my problems. Points, get rid of the points , go to IH or Napa and buy their points. At Napa buy their Ecklin brand. Also bought a new Ecklin brand coil and condenser. After compairing these points with the ones I had installed after rebuild it was obvious the difference. #1: the spring on the points was twice as heavy. According to his advice , the 4 cylinder square point cam must have enough spring tention to close points after coming off the lobe. The tractor runs like a top. Starts with ease. Smooth with power. Alls good! Thanks everyone for their input and much needed advice. On to next project - summer time!

[Billy Fussell]

Glad you got it going. And thanks for the info on Ecklin brand points. I will know what to ask for the next time mine nees changing.

Billy