I had the pleasure of helping split two cubs this past weekend at Buddy and Hope's LA CUBFEST. We installed new TOBs, pressure plates and clutches. Most everyone there knew much more than me, so it was a good learning experience for me.
However not many of the others there were familar with the 1 1/4" finger adjustment that we on the forum talk about all of the time. When I got home I decided to do some research. But, I could not find any specs in the Blue Ribbon Manuals that calls out this dimension. One reference is here: http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%2 ... Clutch.htm, which calls for a 1/8" clearance between the fingers and the TOB.
So, my question is this, where does this 1 1/4" come from. Is it a reference dimension that was calculated? Another thing, why can't this dimension be measured on the bench? Is it because the finger springs are compressed when bolting the pressure plate to the flywheel, which changes this dimension?
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More Clutch Adjusting
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More Clutch Adjusting
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
You can bench set it if you bolt it to a flywheel, the dimensions are in the manual, I do not know the link to Rudi's
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
BigHoss, about 25 years ago I had a international cub that had very very low hours. I was having difficulty on a few other cubs with the clutch fingers hitting the throw out bearing yoke. I split the low hour cub to get the measurments for the fingers. I could find no mention of the finger adjustment in any manuels at that time. I then set every cub pressure plate to 1 1/4 clearence since and have had no problems. Then in 01 when I got a computer I found this wonderfull site. There was a lot of post about clutch problems so I shared my findings and how to adjust the fingers. The clutch and pressure plated need to be installed on the flywheel before adjusting.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Ron, from the backing plate (flywheel) to the clutch fingers should be 2 7/32", according to the I&T Shop Manual. To measure this, you will need to lay a flat piece of material across all of the fingers, and measure the distance between the flywheel and the flat stock you have across the fingers. After plenty of adjusting to get the 2 7/32" measurement across all three finger adjustments, if you then measure from each finger back to the pressure plate, you should get in the area of 1 1/4".
Since measuring and adjusting from each finger to the pressure plate is much simpler, its easier to just set each clutch finger separately from the get-go to the 1 1/4" dimension.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/I&T%20 ... e%2035.jpg
Since measuring and adjusting from each finger to the pressure plate is much simpler, its easier to just set each clutch finger separately from the get-go to the 1 1/4" dimension.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/I&T%20 ... e%2035.jpg
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Sounds like it is important to keep the 1 1/4" dim consistant so the fingers will all contact the TOB at the same time.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Yup, if not even it puts extra wear on both the throw out bearing and the pressure plate.BIGHOSS wrote:Sounds like it is important to keep the 1 1/4" dim consistant so the fingers will all contact the TOB at the same time.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Perhaps this is an issue of terminology. I have a new disc and old pressure plate that looks to be in good shape. The disc that came out actually looked pretty good other than being oil soaked.
In a bench adjustment of the fingers, I am pretty muck all the way in on the screw leaving only the thickness of the nut. I am in the ballpark of 2-7/32". The only 1-1/4" dimension I can find from the fingers is to the top of the clutch disc HUB where the splined hole for the driveshaft.
I saw in another thread that Clark replaces yokes on clutch jobs. The early style yoke is NLA and the later style is around $150 for both halves! Mine is out of round by .030" at the hole for the TO bearing cross pins so I will re-work that to take out the slop.
In a bench adjustment of the fingers, I am pretty muck all the way in on the screw leaving only the thickness of the nut. I am in the ballpark of 2-7/32". The only 1-1/4" dimension I can find from the fingers is to the top of the clutch disc HUB where the splined hole for the driveshaft.
I saw in another thread that Clark replaces yokes on clutch jobs. The early style yoke is NLA and the later style is around $150 for both halves! Mine is out of round by .030" at the hole for the TO bearing cross pins so I will re-work that to take out the slop.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
If you look at the how to links, the is a section on clutch finger adjustment.
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=6994
Winfield Dave's post shows the 1 1/4" measurent. I did 2 clutches, TOB, and rear main seals today. I followed the 1 1/4" measurement guidelines once the clutch and pressure plate was installed on the flywheel. Once assembled, I adjusted the pedal. Both clutches are great and no more oil running out of the bell housing.
viewtopic.php?f=141&t=6994
Winfield Dave's post shows the 1 1/4" measurent. I did 2 clutches, TOB, and rear main seals today. I followed the 1 1/4" measurement guidelines once the clutch and pressure plate was installed on the flywheel. Once assembled, I adjusted the pedal. Both clutches are great and no more oil running out of the bell housing.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Perfect, thanks.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
What a deal! Thanks!
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Well just great! You went and ruined what could of been a good thing for both of us. I could of bought them from you for $50 and sold them to Bob for $100. We would of both doubled our money and Bob would still have got a deal.
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Re: More Clutch Adjusting
Except I was going to weld a tube in mine to repair it, so your dreams of grandeur would have been dashed. But you would have had a set of yokes that you paid too much for so all would not have been lost.
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