New Cub owner with a Barn find

[Puffie40]

Hello, new user here in British Columbia!

So I got a early birthday present. I've had a ongoing interest in old tractors, and have been wrenching on Dad's tractors for a while.

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So this Farmall cub showed up at an estate sale, and Mom and Dad bought it. Both it and the attachments (sickle, plow, disc, spring harrows)had been sheltered and cared for most of its life, but they do need a fair bit of maintenance and tlc before use. I have some questions about that.

The serial plate is missing. The casting letter indicates a 1948 vintage. Were there any backup spots for serial numbers?

The cub has a fairly bad oil leak at the rear main. I read that the seal retainer has to be modified (we have a lathe, so that shouldn't be an issue), but is there anything else we should do while the tractor is split? Should I replace the clutch?

Should I consider converting it to 12 volts? I didnt have a battery, but the generator seems to work, and the tractor lit off very easily with the hand crank even after sitting for three years. Since I have never dealt with a 6 volt system, and I'm in college taking electronic courses, I'm rather curious about 6 volts.

For the 22 sickle, what kind of knife sections does it take? Has anyone messed around with the bolt-on style on this mower?

Chris

[Bill E Bob]

Welcome to the forum! Nice original tractor you have there. As for #s, on the left side of the engine above the oil fill and just behind the hydraulic manifold, there should be a flat spot on the engine casting with a stamped S/N. Also on the same side of the engine there should be a casting mark X-X-R. The first # will be the month, second the day and the third should be an R designating the year (1948). Keep the 6v system if you can, as it's original to the tractor. The main difference from 12v is positive ground and heavier wiring. You probably have a cut out on the generator and a 4 position light switch LHDB L-low charge H-high charge D-dim lights B-bright lights. Again welcome and nice original tractor.

[Jackman]

Nice looking early Cub , I like the hand lift

[Don McCombs]

Depending on your level of machinist skills, you may want to consider getting an already reworked rear main retainer and seal from Tim Talleur (tst).

And, welcome to the forum.

[Eugene]

Should I replace the clutch?

Perhaps. Since you have to remove the pressure plate, check the wear on the disk and throw out bearing. I would probably replace the throwout bearing. Depending on what's needed, consider replacing the pilot shaft bushing.

[Harold R]

Welcome to the forum. Your nice looking tractor has a magneto, which is independent of the electrical system. If it were mine, I'd try a new 6v battery and leave the system as is.

[Buzzard Wing]

Looks to be a well cared for original Cub...... Enjoy it!

[Denny Clayton]

Welcome to the forum. Your nice looking tractor has a magneto, which is independent of the electrical system. If it were mine, I'd try a new 6v battery and leave the system as is.

If you don't have a need for the lights and don't mind starting it with the crank, the electrical system is not needed. Getting it back in order later could be a back burner project. Welcome to the forum!

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Good find. IN addition to the advice you have been given, pay particular attention to the battery cables and ends. Most people convert to 12 volts because the cables are old or too small, or the starter needs cleaned and brushes. My 3 cubs are still on 6 volts, and even with recent rebuilds still spin over nearly as fast as most do with 12 volts. I assume you know it, but in case you do not, the light switch controls the charge rate. Lo, full CCW is approx. 2 amps, Hi 1 click CW is approx. 11 amps, then dim lights, then Less dim lights. If you only run it for short periods and at low rpm, Hi is good, but actually working for 2 or 3 hours and at higher rpms it tends to overcharge and boil the batteries on HI, so after a few minutes it needs to be switched to LO. There is no regulator, just a cutout to disconnect the generator when it quits charging. If you decide not to put a battery in it for a while you need to disconnect the field to prevent the generator from burning out with no load. Or take the generator belt off.

[ricky racer]

Should I replace the clutch?

Perhaps. Since you have to remove the pressure plate, check the wear on the disk and throw out bearing. I would probably replace the throwout bearing. Depending on what's needed, consider replacing the pilot shaft bushing.

While you're there, whether or not you replace the clutch or not, check the clutch finger adjustment. A search here will give you all the info needed to do whatever work you decide to perform on your new Cub.

[Peter Person]

Good find. IN addition to the advice you have been given, pay particular attention to the battery cables and ends. Most people convert to 12 volts because the cables are old or too small, or the starter needs cleaned and brushes. My 3 cubs are still on 6 volts, and even with recent rebuilds still spin over nearly as fast as most do with 12 volts. I assume you know it, but in case you do not, the light switch controls the charge rate. Lo, full CCW is approx. 2 amps, Hi 1 click CW is approx. 11 amps, then dim lights, then Less dim lights. If you only run it for short periods and at low rpm, Hi is good, but actually working for 2 or 3 hours and at higher rpms it tends to overcharge and boil the batteries on HI, so after a few minutes it needs to be switched to LO. There is no regulator, just a cutout to disconnect the generator when it quits charging. If you decide not to put a battery in it for a while you need to disconnect the field to prevent the generator from burning out with no load. Or take the generator belt off.

John,
This is interesting...but I'm curious as to whether this holds true for my '57 with 3-position light switch, distributor, voltage regulator, etc. or is this limited to 4-position light switch, magneto, etc.
I am really weak with electrical stuff.
Peter

[bythepond88]

If you have a regulator, then the switch has no control over charging rate (other than to vary the load on the system itself). The positions on a 3-position switch are dim headlights, less dim headlights and rear lights.

[Stanton]

What a great birthday gift! Happy birthday, BTW. Nice tractor with attachments!!

[Hengy]

That looks awesome! I love original cubs in their working clothes!!

[Puffie40]

Thanks for the input guys. Considering the money and work, I'll keep the system as six volts. That is a very interesting tidbit about the switch also controlling the charge rate.

did the frame and engine serial numbers match? My dad got FCUBM 33819 off the engine.

I'm building a manual package for the cub, and the service manual section in the manual repositories has me rather confused. I'm not sure which ones are needed for my cub.

thanks!