Throttle

[PoconoCub]

.......Now I will have to ask mama for some money to do a tune up on her since it has been 12 years since the last one

Scott

Don't know about the pertronix, but if it's been 12 years since a tune up, dare I ask how long it's been since a valve clearance adjustment check? Another possible area to get a little improvement from.

Actually I have never adjusted the valves and they will have to wait until spring as I need the tractor for winter plowing

Scott

[Mike in Louisiana]

You should be able to do a valve adjustmemt in a afternoon. Second time you will be able to do it in a hour.

[Eugene]

Now I will have to ask mama for some money to do a tune up on her since it has been 12 years since the last one.

Complete engine tune up. You will find the tractor starts easier and will run better.

A complete tune, lub job, and fluid change is not that expensive. With experience shouldn't take perhaps 3 or 4 hours. Probably less time.

[PoconoCub]

You should be able to do a valve adjustmemt in a afternoon. Second time you will be able to do it in a hour.

The problem is getting the exhaust/intake off as it looks like it has never been removed in 57 years I don't want to take the chance in breaking anything until after winter.

Scott

[PoconoCub]

Now I will have to ask mama for some money to do a tune up on her since it has been 12 years since the last one.

Complete engine tune up. You will find the tractor starts easier and will run better.

A complete tune, lub job, and fluid change is not that expensive. With experience shouldn't take perhaps 3 or 4 hours. Probably less time.

When you only have one paycheck coming in to cover everything everything is expensive We haven't gone food shopping in a month just so we could save up enough money to get 125 gals of heating oil, this paycheck we will be food shopping as we are out of most basic things now. I move a bit slow because of the MS and COPD, but it should take less than 3 hours to do the above

Scott

[bythepond88]

The problem is getting the exhaust/intake off as it looks like it has never been removed in 57 years

You can snake the valve cover out without removing either the manifold or the hydraulic lines.

[Regarrr]

Hey, sorry guys, I wasn't ignoring anyone. I had to hit the road for a while so I haven't had time to mess with anything. The info on adjusting the linkage to the governor looks like the starting point that I was missing. Does anyone know about the set screw adjustments on the governor housing? I'm pretty sure it's not right.

also, I'm getting fuel through the carb all the way to the air inlet side when the tractor is not running. strange, but i'm thinking it has something to do with the float height, but if not could someone give me their thoughts on it?

Again thanks for all the tips and info. I will try to dig into it tomorrow after work.

[Don McCombs]

[Glen]

Hi,
Here is a page from the Cub service manual GSS-1411 telling about setting the bumper spring screw on the front of the governor. Paragraphs e and f tell, but if you have time you could read the page, it has other info. Click on the pic makes it bigger.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-20.jpg

[challenger]

Hi,
Here is a page from the Cub service manual GSS-1411 telling about setting the bumper spring screw on the front of the governor. Paragraphs e and f tell, but if you have time you could read the page, it has other info. Click on the pic makes it bigger.

http://www.farmallcub.info/manuals/gss- ... 002-20.jpg

I read over the procedures set forth in the manual to test whether the bumper adjustment on the governor is correctly controlling engine surge. I believe the instructions could be clearer. Paragraph 3 e. on page 2-20 describes the test procedures. Note there is a difference between the term "speed change lever" and "carburetor throttle lever." The speed change lever is the common throttle control lever that the operator uses from the seat of the tractor. The carburetor throttle lever is the arm located at the left front of the engine that connects to the rod going to the carburetor. Once you have the engine running at full throttle as set by the speed change lever, push or force the carburetor throttle lever forward against the governor's resistance to gain additional engine rpm and immediately let go of the arm. Note whether the engine responds per the instructions.

[Urbish]

Actually I have never adjusted the valves and they will have to wait until spring as I need the tractor for winter plowing

Scott

I will second the others' opinions. I did my very first valve clearance adjustment ever on my cub and it took about an hour (without hurrying). And yes, you should be able to remove the tappet cover without removal of the manifolds. You could remove your carburetor and linkages for extra clearance, but that is also unnecessary. I was surprised that this engine doesn't use jam nuts on the adjusters. The threads are a slight interference fit and apparently that is enough to keep the adjusters from moving on their own.

[Radec Aksarben]

Actually I have never adjusted the valves and they will have to wait until spring as I need the tractor for winter plowing

Scott

I will second the others' opinions. I did my very first valve clearance adjustment ever on my cub and it took about an hour (without hurrying). And yes, you should be able to remove the tappet cover without removal of the manifolds. You could remove your carburetor and linkages for extra clearance, but that is also unnecessary. I was surprised that this engine doesn't use jam nuts on the adjusters. The threads are a slight interference fit and apparently that is enough to keep the adjusters from moving on their own.

And holy shamoley does it make a huge difference! The engine will run smoother, quieter, and have more power. It will make you smile.