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Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
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Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
I've made my way to the carburetor last night, and during disassembly I ran into a question for those that have rebuilt their carbs.
On the bottom of the bowl section, there's what looks like a washer staked into the housing holding a felt disk. I forget what the Steiner kit referred to this as, some kind of drip or drain filler. I'm guessing it allows the gas to drain once the intake is full of fuel during an unsuccessful start, and the reason a lot of owners talk about leaking gas when they can't start. The Steiner kit says it includes another one of these washers and pieces of felt, but doesn't look like it's included in mine. I started to tap the staked aluminum away from the washer in order to remove it like the instructions state, but decided I'd leave well enough alone and ask you guys. I think it'll be alright if it's left in there and I spray it out with carb cleaner to make sure it's not plugged, but never hurts to verify.
Here are a few shots on disassembly and after blasting with about a pound of household baking soda using Harbor Freight's '1 Liter Abrasive Blast Gun" (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-ab ... 2857.html#). I've passed it to a friend with a larger ultrasonic tank than I have in order to finish removing any crud and leftover soda, then reassembly starts.
On the bottom of the bowl section, there's what looks like a washer staked into the housing holding a felt disk. I forget what the Steiner kit referred to this as, some kind of drip or drain filler. I'm guessing it allows the gas to drain once the intake is full of fuel during an unsuccessful start, and the reason a lot of owners talk about leaking gas when they can't start. The Steiner kit says it includes another one of these washers and pieces of felt, but doesn't look like it's included in mine. I started to tap the staked aluminum away from the washer in order to remove it like the instructions state, but decided I'd leave well enough alone and ask you guys. I think it'll be alright if it's left in there and I spray it out with carb cleaner to make sure it's not plugged, but never hurts to verify.
Here are a few shots on disassembly and after blasting with about a pound of household baking soda using Harbor Freight's '1 Liter Abrasive Blast Gun" (http://www.harborfreight.com/1-liter-ab ... 2857.html#). I've passed it to a friend with a larger ultrasonic tank than I have in order to finish removing any crud and leftover soda, then reassembly starts.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
If the felt plug is intact, I'd leave it alone. That pot metal gets brittle and staking a new one is can be an adventure.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
I got a carb kit for an H from Steiner and it did not come with a felt plug.
If the original is missing, it's a good idea to replace it as it allows gas to drain while keeping dirty air out. A plug can be made by grabbing some felt from a craft or dollar store.
...Or a little bit of paper towel if you are in a pinch
Staking it would be more difficult. I think silicone should work if you apply a small amount with a toothpick.
If the original is missing, it's a good idea to replace it as it allows gas to drain while keeping dirty air out. A plug can be made by grabbing some felt from a craft or dollar store.
...Or a little bit of paper towel if you are in a pinch
Staking it would be more difficult. I think silicone should work if you apply a small amount with a toothpick.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
How much is a Steiner kit? Where do find one at?
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
Received the carb back today from the ultrasonic tank. Water came out dirty, carb came back with the dirty areas degreased and highlighted. I'll blast again tonight, soak in warm water and dry with compressed air before reassembly tomorrow. That'll also give the plates and extra parts time to soak in the carb cleaner.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
Make sure your top is not warped.
1975 cub (LouAnn) serial # 245946, 1941 John Deere Model H
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
Good judgment comes from experience,
and a lot of that comes from bad judgment. Will Rogers
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1953 F-Cub
Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
Hello,
I'm new to the club. I picked up my first F-Cub today for $400. It's a 1953 and looks to be pretty tight as if it was not used hard or very much. The motor is stuck and I have the exhaust full of Marvel Mystery Oil, so we'll see? I drained the oil and about a quart of water came out and then some very thick oil. The old man I got it from said it has been stuck since February. I think I'm going to enjoy this little Cub very much. I will tackle the carb tomorrow and probably order a kit. Good luck with your carb job!
How do I attach a photo? Anybody?
Ya'll have a good one!
I'm new to the club. I picked up my first F-Cub today for $400. It's a 1953 and looks to be pretty tight as if it was not used hard or very much. The motor is stuck and I have the exhaust full of Marvel Mystery Oil, so we'll see? I drained the oil and about a quart of water came out and then some very thick oil. The old man I got it from said it has been stuck since February. I think I'm going to enjoy this little Cub very much. I will tackle the carb tomorrow and probably order a kit. Good luck with your carb job!
How do I attach a photo? Anybody?
Ya'll have a good one!
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
C.Montgomery wrote:The motor is stuck and I have the exhaust full of Marvel Mystery Oil, so we'll see? I drained the oil and about a quart of water came out and then some very thick oil. The old man I got it from said it has been stuck since February.
I think I would concentrate on getting the engine unstuck before spending money on the carb.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
I'm with Bill. Don't buy parts for the tractor until you get the engine unstuck, and then find out the engine's condition.Barnyard wrote:I think I would concentrate on getting the engine unstuck before spending money on the carb.
Evaluate the entire tractor for obvious faults. Consider that some parts and repairs get expensive.
$400-, you won't get hurt if it turns out to be a parts tractor.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
Mike in Louisiana wrote:Make sure your top is not warped.
Top is definitely warped, any advice on correcting?
Edit: looked on the boards, looks like trying Lurker Carl's method is first up.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
Another question: From the info on Carl's presentations, looks like his IH carb rebuild kit includes a solid metal float needle. My kit from Steiner has the Viton float needle. Has anyone reused the metal needle (possibly lapping the needle and cage?) to avoid using the Viton? I've rebuilt several carbs using Viton needles but never on a gravity-fed system.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
I've worked on many Cub carburetors and rarely seen a needle that I thought needed replaced. Plan on cleaning and using the old needle and seat, as is.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
I have used very fine valve lapping compound on one carburetor to lap the needle valve to seat. Normally you can use the metal needle valve and seat with out lappping.Clip wrote:Has anyone reused the metal needle (possibly lapping the needle and cage?) to avoid using the Viton?
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: Carb rebuild with Steiner kit
All metal vs. Viton tipped float valves is nearly as controversial as brand of oil. I have had good/bad luck with both styles. The most important thing is to keep the needle/seat pairs together as originally packaged. They are not all the same length but interchange in their original pairings. When I park a tractor, I try to remember to shut the fuel off under the gas tank before shutting the engine off. Even if I don't run the carburetor dry, I let it run enough for the float valve to open. That avoids having it stick shut.
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