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light switch

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Todd
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Location: Clarksburg md

light switch

Postby Todd » Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:29 pm

on a 60 does it have a 3 or 4 position switch, and does it have a one or two prong starter switch
i have a few tractor pics on my site i should have started taking them before i took it apart

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Bigdog
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Location: OH, Circleville

Postby Bigdog » Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:35 pm

Todd, I believe you would have a 3 position light switch and a 2 pole ignition switch unless modifications were made.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

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Todd
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Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 4:15 pm
Location: Clarksburg md

Postby Todd » Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:53 pm

cool thank you, I would love to have an original wiring harness if anyone has one
i have a few tractor pics on my site i should have started taking them before i took it apart

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Bigdog
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Posts: 24144
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Location: OH, Circleville

Postby Bigdog » Thu Jul 14, 2005 8:03 pm

Finding a NOS original might be difficult. As DavidC mentioned, OEM makes a faithful reproduction which will look original.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!

Image

http://www.cubtug.com

Jim Becker
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Postby Jim Becker » Thu Jul 14, 2005 9:46 pm

C&G lists it, part 371032R91 for about $65. It would be plastic wrapped. I don't know how the original was, probably the same. The original light switch had 4 positions (O D B R).

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Buzzard Wing
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Postby Buzzard Wing » Sat Jul 16, 2005 7:37 am

Despite aruguments by the other owner, I found that buying the 'factory' wiring harness worth the money. I did get the wrong one the first time, but the second one is a thing of beauty. (I was working without the manual at the time and had traced every wire down and drew a diagram before I took anything off. )
The harness for my 71 was $50 or so from C&G ($20 less than the wrong one).

As for the light switch... does it look like this??
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y40/Bu ... 3f598e.jpg
I ended up buying a new one for about $30 from a Cub Cadet dealer, the pen is pointing at the hot lead (or what should be the hot lead). Could explain why I had a hard time wringing out the switch!

Jim knows his stuff and I am sure he gave you the correct number...

I found the best wiring diagram to be in the operators manual ($27 from C&G)

There are a couple of advantages to buying it over fabricating it..... wire size and colors are CORRECT. Also the connectors are correct. May not sound like a big deal, but I can tell you it is nearly impossible to find good quality terminals that are right for the application (look at any homemade wires on a regulator for a perfect example.)

I am pretty particular about wiring after doing battle with several poorly wired trailers.... I even carry a butane soldering iron in the truck.

The best reason is you probably never have to troubleshoot wiring problem or have one quit because of a bad connection. (ask my friend about his wife's M.... and they are both electricians!)
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)

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Todd
10+ Years
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Posts: 238
Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2003 4:15 pm
Location: Clarksburg md

Postby Todd » Sat Jul 16, 2005 12:31 pm

When I bought the tractor it was converted to 12vlt and everything was gone. So I need everthing. The guy did include the generator so thats good.

Do I need the one or two prong on off switch?
i have a few tractor pics on my site i should have started taking them before i took it apart

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
Location: Mo, Potosi

Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Sat Jul 16, 2005 2:57 pm

one prong for magneto ignition, 2 prong for distributor or converted magneto.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!


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