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Cooling fan failure
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- Cub Pro
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1950 cub, 1948 cub, 1941 A, 1948 H, 1963 B414, 1958 240U, 1947 Oliver 60 industrial, Oliver 70 industrial. IH 450, 1963, another 1948 cub, 1946 I6 with Trogan front blade. - Location: CT, Middletown
Re: Cooling fan failure
you can also drill that governor cross shaft and put a 1/8 roll pin to prevent any rotation in that area.
Also look at each connection from that point to the throttle plate. the pin, hole and yolk that attaches the carb rod to the governor cross shaft, the throttle plate hole and the rod, and where the cross shaft is mounted to the front cover.
I have my demonstrator tractor in the shop now (restored 8 years ago) for general maintenance and noticed a little slop in that cross shaft, which i had drilled and installed set screws in to hold it. they had worked loose. So, I'm going to change to governor to a power unit 2400 rpm, drill the cross shaft, and replace the throttle rod, all in an effort to restore eliminate slop and give the tractor some pep! 12V and Pertronics as well
the goal, as Don said, is zero slop.
Also look at each connection from that point to the throttle plate. the pin, hole and yolk that attaches the carb rod to the governor cross shaft, the throttle plate hole and the rod, and where the cross shaft is mounted to the front cover.
I have my demonstrator tractor in the shop now (restored 8 years ago) for general maintenance and noticed a little slop in that cross shaft, which i had drilled and installed set screws in to hold it. they had worked loose. So, I'm going to change to governor to a power unit 2400 rpm, drill the cross shaft, and replace the throttle rod, all in an effort to restore eliminate slop and give the tractor some pep! 12V and Pertronics as well
the goal, as Don said, is zero slop.
'If they're tappin', they're not burnin'
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org
http://www.ZagrayFarmMuseum.org
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- Cub Pro
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Re: Cooling fan failure
OK, so I'm hijacking this thread for my own edification. I will be lubing the fan while the hood is off.
In the picture below I've tried to show what I'm describing as "freeplay". Tractor not running, hold the rod from the lever to the throttle and move front to back. Range of motion is about 3/4" at the clevis. Anything to be concerned with?
Thanks,
Peter
In the picture below I've tried to show what I'm describing as "freeplay". Tractor not running, hold the rod from the lever to the throttle and move front to back. Range of motion is about 3/4" at the clevis. Anything to be concerned with?
Thanks,
Peter
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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- 10+ Years
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Re: Cooling fan failure
A squirt oil can is your tractors best friend. I would lube the governor shaft bushings too. Besides a few drops on the spring holes.
Tell me how often have you greased the zerks? Be honest?
Tell me how often have you greased the zerks? Be honest?
I'm technically misunderstood at times i guess its been this way my whole life so why should it change now.
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- Team Cub Mentor
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1957 Farmall Cub w/FH
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Peter Person wrote:Anything to be concerned with?
Absolutely! As you rotate that lever through it's range of movement, use your flashlight and observe what's happening at the other end of the rod.
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Don,
As I recall, the governor spring does not come under tension until the freeplay is taken up leading me to believe one of two conditions exist.
1) the connection points for the governor spring have "wallered" out or,
2) the internals of the governor are worn,
3) a little of both.
What's next Dr. Don?
As I recall, the governor spring does not come under tension until the freeplay is taken up leading me to believe one of two conditions exist.
1) the connection points for the governor spring have "wallered" out or,
2) the internals of the governor are worn,
3) a little of both.
What's next Dr. Don?
1957 Farmall Cub "Emory", Fast-Hitch, L-F194 Plow & Colter, L-38 Disc Harrow, Cub-54A Blade, Cub-22 Sickle Bar Mower, IH 100 Blade
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Hi,
Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing how to check the oil in the fan hub, if you don't know how. There's a pic, and the info is on the right of the page. Click on the pic makes it bigger.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... age-26.jpg
Here is a page from the Cub owner's manual showing how to check the oil in the fan hub, if you don't know how. There's a pic, and the info is on the right of the page. Click on the pic makes it bigger.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... age-26.jpg
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Does anyone have a photo of what the fan's oil screw looks like? Do you ever have to drain the oil or just fill it.
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Re: Cooling fan failure
I can't find a decent photo, but it's a slotted, round head machine screw. It threads into a short stand pipe. You add oil with the fill hole up, then rotate it to the bottom to let any excess above the stand pipe drain out. There is no way to drain it for changing, the problem is when it runs out of oil.
Bob
Bob
"We don't need to think more,
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
we need to think differently."
-Albert Einstein
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LT1045 Cub Cadet - Circle of Safety: Y
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Re: Cooling fan failure
quote="offrink"]Does anyone have a photo of what the fan's oil screw looks like? Do you ever have to drain the oil or just fill it.[/quote]
Here you go; Like Bob said, just a slotted round head machine screw.
[
Here you go; Like Bob said, just a slotted round head machine screw.
[
Bill VanHooser
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
Cub 54 Blade, Cub 193 Moldboard Plow, Cub 28A Disc Harrow
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Bob McCarty wrote: You add oil with the fill hole up, then rotate it to the bottom to let any excess above the stand pipe drain out
I may be wrong, but I believe you pump the oil into the hole while the screw is pointed to one side or the other. (I think the book says to the left) The only problem you would have if you did it while pointing up, is you would have more oil coming back out once you rotated the fan so the screw was at the bottom, draining off the excess.
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Re: Cooling fan failure
offrink wrote:Does anyone have a photo of what the fan's oil screw looks like? Do you ever have to drain the oil or just fill it.
Bob McCarty wrote:I can't find a decent photo, but it's a slotted, round head machine screw. It threads into a short stand pipe. You add oil with the fill hole up, then rotate it to the bottom to let any excess above the stand pipe drain out. There is no way to drain it for changing, the problem is when it runs out of oil.
Bob
Here's a little photoshop work of the picture in Offrink's post.
Stan in LA (lower AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
USAF & Reserves, Reg ARMY, ARMY NG (AL)
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- 10+ Years
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- Tractors Owned: 1954 farmall fcub, 1954 farmall super m
- Location: Caledonia, MI
Re: Cooling fan failure
Thanks for the photo! That helps a lot! I don't know the last decade mine was oiled! (To be fair I have only had it a year)
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Re: Cooling fan failure
Was it from the SAME diet Pepsi can????John *.?-!.* cub owner wrote:.......... I have one that was so badly worn I cut a shim from a Diet Pepsi can and put in it. When I rebuilt it the second time about 25 years later I cut a new Diet Pepsi shim and also used Permatex Bearing Mount.
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Re: Cooling fan failure
I want to reinforce Artc's comment with regard to the need for zero play where the governor cross shaft fits into the hub located at the end of the short shaft that comes out of the governor body. This 'play' is a very common problem and greatly affects the responsiveness of the governor. If your tractor does not seem to respond promptly to a load being placed on the engine, check this shaft for play. As discussed, there are several ways to address the problem.
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Re: Cooling fan failure
My preferred way to fix it is to point towards the governor rockshaft and say "Johnny, is that supposed to move like that????" as "John *.?-!.* cub owner" walks by.challenger wrote:........... As discussed, there are several ways to address the problem.
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