Another New Member

[AZDesertrat]

Hello everyone, my name's Joe and I just picked my first tractor, a 1952? Cub. The data plate is missing and the engine serial number is partly obscured but the casting dates on the engine (X) the torque tube(R) rear end (Q) and the hydraulic cylinder (S) point to an early fifties Cub. I'm a former Coast Guard mechanic and so far this tractor runs great and is easy to service. Out here in the desert there isn't much to farm but I use the tractor to maintain my road and property. My cub has the grader blade in the belly position and I would like to move it to the front, but I don't have the needed parts to mount or lift the blade. Is there a source to buy these parts or a source to get measured drawings so I can build them? Any and all help is much appreciated. I will post a picture of my tractor soon. Thanks - Joe

[Donegal Cub]

A Big Donegal Welcome to the forum Joe. If it's possible to do it the guys on this forum will know how. Enjoy your Cub.
Bernard,
Donegal Cub.

[ScottyD'sdad]

belly position does a better job of grading. Front or rear mounted blades lift or dig, when the wheels closest to them, find a hole or a bump.
Ed

[Mike in Louisiana]

belly position does a better job of grading. Front or rear mounted blades lift or dig, when the wheels closest to them, find a hole or a bump.
Ed

[Mike in Louisiana]

Check the memember map Arizona mike might be close.

[Bob McCarty]

Joe, Welcome to the Forum. Here is a picture from TM Tractor (sponsor at the bottom of the page) that shows all the pieces needed for front mounting. There were 3 versions of the blade, but most of the differences would be in the parts you don't have. I'd suggest listing what you don't have and placing a "wanted" in the Vine Forum. I think it will be hard for you to find much where you are, but you can probably have parts shipped to you if you still think you want to mount the blade in front.



Bob

[AZDesertrat]

Thanks for all the feed back! My brother and I have been debating just which position better for grading. I thought front and he thought the back. I'm learning the finer points about tractor 101. Thanks again!

[The Riot]

Welcome to the site. I hope that you enjoy it as much as I do, members are extraordinarily helpful and knowledgable.

On the blade, mine is belly mounted and I really like that position best, easy to see work, best weight distribution, etc.
Here's a pic of Big Red, 1963 Cub, I love my cub and the grandkids love it too.

[artc]

from your casting code letters it looks like the engine is from a 52 (X), or perhaps 74. the others are 1947 (Q) 1948 (R), and 1949 (S) most likely. post a picture when you can.

so your cub has had substantial changes over the years, or was put together out of someones parts stock.

you'll notice that all road graders use a center mounted blade.

[WaMoo]

Welcome from a current CG BMC!

[AZDesertrat]

Finally got the time to take a few pictures of my cub. I need to get the correct battery, the one it had when I bought it is too tall and I can't put the battery cover on. Insult to injury the battery had been grounded to the battery box itself so had to get a cable and ground it to the tork tube. If anyone has an idea as to the year of the tractor please let me know. It just might be an early 50 with a 74 engine.

Joe

[Jim Becker]

Casual look suggests either last half or so of 1949 or the first half or so of 1950. Is that white paint showing through in a few places?

[AZDesertrat]

No much, there is some gray primer showing and silver on the rear wheels. There are some white decals on the hood and the rocker arm has some white showing. Mostly red, rust and oil.

[staninlowerAL]

... If anyone has an idea as to the year of the tractor please let me know. It just might be an early 50 with a 74 engine.

Joe

Check the link at the top of the page "What Year is my Cub", SN on the metal plate near where the steering shaft connects to the front end, Look for casting code on the major castings, it will be two numbers and a letter. The letter indicates the year of mfg.
EDIT: I reread your previous posts and see that you have already checked those points. I would check the casting letter and go with which one is in the majority.

[Scrivet]

......... Insult to injury the battery had been grounded to the battery box itself so had to get a cable and ground it to the tork tube........

Grounding to the side of the battery box would be the factory position. Torque tube will give you fewer chances for problems. Check out the how to's there's a nice one on using a braided strap and a battery box mounting bolt. Better electrically than the side of the box and hidden inside the box.