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rebuilding the touch control box
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 7:25 pm
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- Location: southern indiana/ spencer county
rebuilding the touch control box
I have my touch control out for a rebuild and was wanting to get any advice or pointers you can pass along. And also When looking at the TM site I saw none of the boots for the shafts coming in and out of the front end. Are these available yet? I only need one as the other one looks fine. Thanks for any help you can lend!!
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- Team Cub Mentor
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The boots are still available. However the one for the large piston is different from the original. Get the one for a Super A hydraulic unit if you want it to fit like the old one.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
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- Cub Pro
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- Location: RI, Newport
I am in the same situation, here are a couple of tips I got from John $#%&# Cub owner.
CLEAN, since I figure the thing is just too heavy for the kitchen table (OK for carbs!) I will be using the bench in the garage. I will either use newspaper or heavy poly on top of the bench. I did scrub it pretty well once I had it off the Cub, very careful to plug the orifices and the control cyl hole.
There is a set screw (1/8"?) that holds the clevis pin on the control cyl.
I believe he said inside snap ring pliers, but mine are 'reversable' so I think I am set for special tools.
I have a gallon of HyTran and the gasket/o-ring kit. I didn't get a strainer (it was $50) but kinda suspect that I may need one.
Also got the boots specified in the parts manual, but Big Dog is right... the rubber boot does not fit correctly over the big piston 'ring' in the casting. The number for the one that fits is 351 754 R3.
I am trying to figure out how to 'wash' the original leather boot as it is in good shape, just has some crud on it.
Good luck!
CLEAN, since I figure the thing is just too heavy for the kitchen table (OK for carbs!) I will be using the bench in the garage. I will either use newspaper or heavy poly on top of the bench. I did scrub it pretty well once I had it off the Cub, very careful to plug the orifices and the control cyl hole.
There is a set screw (1/8"?) that holds the clevis pin on the control cyl.
I believe he said inside snap ring pliers, but mine are 'reversable' so I think I am set for special tools.
I have a gallon of HyTran and the gasket/o-ring kit. I didn't get a strainer (it was $50) but kinda suspect that I may need one.
Also got the boots specified in the parts manual, but Big Dog is right... the rubber boot does not fit correctly over the big piston 'ring' in the casting. The number for the one that fits is 351 754 R3.
I am trying to figure out how to 'wash' the original leather boot as it is in good shape, just has some crud on it.
Good luck!
1971 Cub (Rufus) 1950 Cub (Cathy) 1965 Lo Boy Fast Hitch (Nameless III) 1970 Cub 1000 Loader & Fast Hitch (Lee)
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- 10+ Years
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I have read that people soak it in kerosene to freshen the boot up. I have never done it my self. Try using the search featureon the top of the page and you will probably find the info.
Bill
Bill
Bill
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
"Life's tough.It's even tougher if you're stupid."
- John Wayne
" We hang petty thieves and appoint the great ones to public office."
- Aesop
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- 10+ Years
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- Cub Pro
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