Impending clutch job on '46 Farmall A

[Capnball]

Backstory:
Last year I purchased my 3rd A- another '46. I have one '46 already as a parts donor. I ran the new to me tractor up until this spring, when I got a Woods L-59 set up on it, and mowed the grass once. Cut like a dream. But, ever since I got the tractor, there's been too much free travel in the clutch pedal, and I knew I needed to adjust it. The day I mowed the grass, it got noticeably worse to the point where the clutch was barely disengaging, so I parked it and adjusted the pedal. Then I fired it up, released the clutch (normally- should have really eased it out) and a terrible clattering came from the clutch, and pieces of fingers fell out of the opening on the bottom of the clutch housing. Now there is no power to the drivetrain. So, I am looking at doing my first clutch job. I consider myself pretty handy and mechanically inclined, but have never looked at one of these clutches or messed with anything similar.


Now for the fun part that I'd love input on:

I am on a super tight budget (starting out as a full-time blacksmith with 4 young kids is tough) BUT I do not want to cut any corners on this clutch build, as I want it to outlast me. I would rather rebuild a clutch with minimal expense and new parts, using the parts from both '46 clutches IF they are the same and IF it is feasible to get good results going that route, but WILL spend the money and get all new parts if the consensus is that is the only way to go.
If I decided to go with the first option, I do have access to an old timer (good friend) less than an hour away that could help with the assembly of the clutch itself, and is an absolute guru on these Farmalls with over 60 years of collecting and QUALITY mechanical work on them. I got his advice over the phone, and it was to basically get both tractors apart and bring the clutch components to him to look over. What say you'ns? Also,

What special tools are needed?

What other parts are accessed when the tractor is split at the clutch that should be checked/replaced while I've got it split? Rear engine seals? They're not currently leaking.

I have read everything I can find on the splitting process and am pretty confident on that count.

[Dale Finch]

You'll want to check the carriage assembly holding the throwout bearing. Most likely, that is what made all the noise and tore the fingers apart...fingers too low and TOB adjusted too far forward.

Also, check for any indication of leaking of the rear engine seal, AND front transmission seal. The transmission seal requires a rear split, but if you have it down for one, now might be the time for the other.

Since you will be draining the hydraulics for the split, unless it's been done recently, I would suggest pulling the screen in the touch control block, to see if it is clean and has no holes.

Oh, and the front axle should be wedged for the split, to help with alignement during reassembly. Method is a bit different from the cub, but the manual has pictures, I believe in the service manual.

[Capnball]

Thanks Dale! Exactly what I'm looking for- all except the touch-control stuff- this is a straight A, no hydraulics. I have a I&T shop manual- I also need to pull up the parts manual here on the forum and familiarize myself with the throwout bearing carriage.

[Dale Finch]

Oops! Yep, one less system (hydraulics) to worry about!

This might help:
http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/A%20-%20B/TC-26E%20Parts%20Catalog/index.html