First Super A

[CDKL]

Hello all, I purchased a SA over the weekend and this is the first Farmall that I have owned I'm really excited about it. The best I can tell its a 1950 model, there are a few things that need to be addressed on the tractor but over I think she's in pretty good shape for her age. I believe there is a little bit of an issue with the fuel system on it, it will run for a while and after it seems to get good warm it will start acting like it's out of fuel. After letting it sit it will start back up again. And I certainly think it's time for all of the fluids to be changed. I need to find a left side final drive cover plate for it. Other than that a couple of implements, a draw bar and I'll be set I think. Maybe this fall and winter I can replace a few gaskets for PM and replace a squeaky fan pulley. I wanted to ask if there is a specific place that you guys prefer to buy parts from for the SA, or is it kind of find what you can where you can?

Thanks,
Chris

[Don McCombs]

Your issue of quitting after running for a while are typically symptomatic of a failing ignition coil or condensor.

[Jim Becker]

Yes, what Don said. When it acts up, immediately check the quality of the spark. See if it is worse than when it is cold.

. . . I need to find a left side final drive cover plate for it. . . .

Maybe not. Does it have a seed plate drive attached to the inner end of that axle?

[CDKL]

Yes, what Don said. When it acts up, immediately check the quality of the spark. See if it is worse than when it is cold.

. . . I need to find a left side final drive cover plate for it. . . .

Maybe not. Does it have a seed plate drive attached to the inner end of that axle?

I'm not positive to be honest with you, this is not only my first farmall, its my first tractor ever. So I'm learning all I can as quick as I can. I will grab a pic of it when I get in from work and post it if that's ok.

Again I'm sorry, when you say check the quality of the spark immediately after it acts up, are you talking about how quick it crank ups?


I just looked up the seed plate drive and I'm pretty sure that's exactly what it is on mine, however there is quite a bit of fluid that has leaked there at some point in time, there right hand side is in much better shape if that makes sense.

[CDKL]

Your issue of quitting after running for a while are typically symptomatic of a failing ignition coil or condenser.

Thank you for the insight. What is the best way to check the two to see if they are going bad/bad?

[Jim Becker]

Assuming it is the seed plate drive, the 4 cap screws around the outside hold a seal retainer. The seal inside that retainer is probably where the leak is. The seal can be replaced, current part number is 382220R91. You can get a generic replacement for that seal from several sources, most of whom will be less expensive than going to the CaseIH dealer. Local auto supply stores may have it and online sources such as Pilot Knob and Steiner's will have it. That particular seal happens to be used on the Cub also, so TM should have it, although they probably won't have the gasket for the retainer.

If you want to put on a cover like the other side, you will need to remove the seed plate drive and replace it with a spacer and washer. (The washer is not a hardware store item!)

To check your spark, pull a spark plug wire from one of the spark plugs. Hold it so the connector on the end of the wire is about 1/4 inch from a good ground (engine block or head), but hold it so you don't get zapped by the spark. Turn on the ignition and hit the starter. You should see a bright, blue spark from the end of the wire to ground. Do the same test with a cold engine and again immediately after it acts up.

[CDKL]

Ok, I understand. I will look into it. I will post three links below to YouTube for the videos of the tractor running. Low idle and high idle. She ran for well over 30 minutes and never died. I would appreciate any input you guys might have.


https://youtube.com/shorts/d6hx5hoeNXs?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/fc1dHZypPfA?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/zGYHLbcinxk?feature=share

[CDKL]

Assuming it is the seed plate drive, the 4 cap screws around the outside hold a seal retainer. The seal inside that retainer is probably where the leak is. The seal can be replaced, current part number is 382220R91. You can get a generic replacement for that seal from several sources, most of whom will be less expensive than going to the CaseIH dealer. Local auto supply stores may have it and online sources such as Pilot Knob and Steiner's will have it. That particular seal happens to be used on the Cub also, so TM should have it, although they probably won't have the gasket for the retainer.

If you want to put on a cover like the other side, you will need to remove the seed plate drive and replace it with a spacer and washer. (The washer is not a hardware store item!)

To check your spark, pull a spark plug wire from one of the spark plugs. Hold it so the connector on the end of the wire is about 1/4 inch from a good ground (engine block or head), but hold it so you don't get zapped by the spark. Turn on the ignition and hit the starter. You should see a bright, blue spark from the end of the wire to ground. Do the same test with a cold engine and again immediately after it acts up.

Here is a couple of pics of the final drive that we were discussing.

[Jim Becker]

Your videos sound and look like the choke is on. Make sure the choke is completely open. Is the choke lever on the carb in the right position? Any possibility it is inverted so pushing the choke in is actually choking it? Is the lever tight on the choke shaft so it is actually doing anything? Is the float able to shut off the fuel flow into the bowl? If left not running with the shutoff open under the tank, does the carb start leaking fuel? All that said, you should still check the spark as described above.

On the oil leak, yes you have a seed plate drive. From the picture, it looks to me like the oil is coming from the weep hole above. You should clean the old oil off and watch closely to see where fresh oil comes out. Oil through that weep hole has to come from either the final drive or from the transmission/differential housing. There is a seal in each housing that the differential shaft goes through. The transmission is the more likely source. The transmission may be overfilled with oil or with oil plus water that has accumulated. I would first crack the drain plug a little to see what comes out. If it is water or some mixture with water, drain it and refill. If it looks like good oil, pull the level plug and see how much comes out. In either location, be ready with a large drain pan. You don't know how much might be in there.

The Owner's Manual should show you the locations of all the plugs. If you don't have the manual, I believe there is one in the PDF manuals.

[CDKL]

Your videos sound and look like the choke is on. Make sure the choke is completely open. Is the choke lever on the carb in the right position? Any possibility it is inverted so pushing the choke in is actually choking it? Is the lever tight on the choke shaft so it is actually doing anything? Is the float able to shut off the fuel flow into the bowl? If left not running with the shutoff open under the tank, does the carb start leaking fuel? All that said, you should still check the spark as described above.

On the oil leak, yes you have a seed plate drive. From the picture, it looks to me like the oil is coming from the weep hole above. You should clean the old oil off and watch closely to see where fresh oil comes out. Oil through that weep hole has to come from either the final drive or from the transmission/differential housing. There is a seal in each housing that the differential shaft goes through. The transmission is the more likely source. The transmission may be overfilled with oil or with oil plus water that has accumulated. I would first crack the drain plug a little to see what comes out. If it is water or some mixture with water, drain it and refill. If it looks like good oil, pull the level plug and see how much comes out. In either location, be ready with a large drain pan. You don't know how much might be in there.

The Owner's Manual should show you the locations of all the plugs. If you don't have the manual, I believe there is one in the PDF manuals.

Wow!! Thank you so much for the reply, I will check on the choke when I get in from work. If the choke rod is pulled out toward the seat that's in the full choke position correct? Pushed all the way in its closed correct? I'm almost positive its pushed all the way in and it will crank without being pulled out, and that's from a cold start. However we are having some 90 degree plus days here in north Ga.

[CDKL]

Here is another short. I feel bad, I thought the choke was closed all the way but I pushed it pretty hard and it snapped closed. This is a video of it afterwards. Aside from squeaky fan/pulley, not sure which. You can tell by the exhaust flap and the amount of smoke it seems much smoother to me.

https://youtube.com/shorts/XU5YEkLDkH4?feature=share

[Jim Becker]

That both sounds and looks a lot better. A bit of explanation on the choke:

The choke is a valve in the air intake of the carburetor. In normal operation it is OPEN to allow full flow of air. When starting a cold engine, it may need a richer fuel mixture, that is more fuel in a given amount of air. This is accomplished by CLOSING the choke to restrict the amount of air that is drawn in. The choke hand control on the left of your instrument panel connects to a lever on the choke shaft. When this control is pulled back, the choke is CLOSED for starting. As the engine warms up and no longer needs the richer fuel mixture, the control is pushed forward to OPEN the choke. Many of the carburetors used on this and similar tractors have a small lever on the side of the carburetor where it can be easily seen, on the opposite end of the choke shaft from the lever mentioned earlier. Typically, that lever will be horizontal when the choke is OPEN.

I had noticed the squeak/chirp and intended to comment on it earlier. It could be a belt that is loose and/or out of line. Another possibility is a bad bearing in the alternator. The other, more concerning possibility is the fan hub bearing. It could be running dry and on the verge of seizing or coming apart. That bearing is actually a bushing. The hub is a reservoir that needs to be kept filled with motor oil. There is a specific procedure for filling that reservoir. With too little oil, the bearing runs dry. With too much, it can throw oil everywhere. Filling procedure is in the Owner's Manual. I encourage you to check on this immediately.

[CDKL]

ok, thank you for the advice. I will address this immediately and resolve the problem. I hope to get into it this coming weekend. I printed off a manual today to start going through. I really want this tractor to be solid and take care of it the it should be. The carb was little damp on the bottom of it after I ran my finger across it, it was wet.

[Dale Finch]

Definitely oil the fan hub before you run it much longer. IF that is the source of the noise, it could be catastrophic if the fan finally seizes...it can take out your radiator...an expensive result!

[CDKL]

Definitely oil the fan hub before you run it much longer. IF that is the source of the noise, it could be catastrophic if the fan finally seizes...it can take out your radiator...an expensive result!

That will be the first order of business before she is started up again. I’m hoping there is no damage done if that is the problem.