Working on a Farmall 340

[cjet69]

That looks like a Murphy gauge, a temperature gauge with an electrical contact that closes when the temperature goes past a set limit. The box is probably a relay that connects the gauge to the ignition system to cut off the engine if it overheats. You don't usually see them on a tractor. They are usually on power units that operate unattended.

It is connected to a temp gauge. for the info Jim Becker, I learned something new.

[cjet69]

Pulled the alternator off and did a quick "bench" test. I was able to jury rig the sickle sharpener to spin it. It has good output so I can use it. Video coming soon.

[cjet69]

The video: I hooked up a battery and a wire to the field terminal to touch to the + battery terminal.

[Gary Dotson]

FYI, that alternator requires an external regulator, perhaps you knew this but just in case.

[cjet69]

FYI, that alternator requires an external regulator, perhaps you knew this but just in case.

I checked that out just to make sure. It is the early Delco that requires a VR. I have the same setup on one of our JD tractors.

Here is info on GM alternators: http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/GmAlter ... cation.htm

[cjet69]

I made it out to the shop for a bit today. I found some material to make a bushing for the pivot bolt on the alternator bracket. It had a 1/2" pipe welded on and a 3/8" bolt thru it which allowed way to much slop. Now I need to address the tensioner bracket to get it lined up. I had to remove the fan and pulley to access the bolt that holds it in place. The bolt goes into the water jacket so I need to drain the coolant before pulling it out. Looks like I may need to get a longer belt also.

[cjet69]

A couple weeks back I tried to remove the bolts holding the fuel tank. They were really rusty and felt like they were going to break. I've been soaking them in ATF/Acetone every few days and today I tried them again. They all came out with a little working back and forth with out breaking any of them. Now I have good access to the gauges for wiring and can also clean out the fuel tank.

[cjet69]

Cleaned a bunch of crud out of the fuel tank. Its not perfect,but its as good as I can get it without lining it. The fuel bowl valve can hardly be turned so I pulled it and will tear it down for a good cleaning tomorrow.

[cjet69]

Made a parts run to NAPA and picked up a 1" longer belt and a wiring harness pigtail for the voltage regulator. I already had the new VR on the shelf. I think I have everything I need to get the wiring done now.

[cjet69]

Swapped out the front wheels that go flat overnight with a set from my parts 350. Started removing wires that are damaged or have been mickey moused by PO's. Found this custom wiring under a wad of electrical tape.

[Indy4570]

looks like perfectly acceptable shade tree wiring right there looking forward to the post that reads, " I fired it up today..." good on ya. love threads like these, just wish they were about my tractors

[cjet69]

looks like perfectly acceptable shade tree wiring right there looking forward to the post that reads, " I fired it up today..." good on ya. love threads like these, just wish they were about my tractors

Hopefully it will be fired up soon. The shop has been really cold for most of this month, but the temps are getting up in the 40's again so it doesn't take much heat to make it tolerable for working.

[cjet69]

Got the rewire for the 12v system routed. Just need to test it out and then wrap it. I need to get a new battery ground cable and a water temp gauge. I think I will use my small testing fuel tank for the first test run and if all goes well I can start putting things together.

[cjet69]

I found a piece of that plastic tubing on an old wiring harness that looks like it will work for the wiring harness.

I pulled the carb and found some old fuel crud in the bowl so I stuck it in the sonic cleaner. I should have it back on the tractor tomorrow.

[cjet69]

I got the carb put together and installed. Figured I should try to start it so I pulled the plugs to shoot some oil in each cylinder. I noticed some rust in the 2 front cylinders. I shot some WD-40 and oil in and turned it over. That seamed to cut the rust and I could then see a shiny cylinder wall with a nice cross hatch pattern in it. Put the plugs back in and gave it a try. It fired and quit around 6-7 times and then began to run. It sounded like it was only hitting on 2 cylinders at first and then picked up the other two, but would occasionally one would drop out. I think I will check the plugs again and maybe do a compression test. With the rust in the cylinders I may be fighting a sticky valve.