B head gasket

[Texas Tony]

So those of you following the continuing soap opera of my 1940 B, here is the latest installment of, "As The Stomach of The Farmall Owner Turns."

My diesel mechanic friend came to the house this afternoon and as he sat on a stool across the engine from me, I pulled the head off so we can find out where it is leaking at. In case you've forgotten, this 113 was just recently out of a reputable machine shop for a complete overhaul. The shop put the head on... re.ember that for later. So we get the head off and find this head gasket (see accompanying photograph.) I apologize in advance for the poor quality, but can anyone tell me if this is the right head gasket from the poor quality picture? I am given to understand that there are two different head gaskets for B's... those with water pumps and those without. My tractor does not have a water pump. But it had no detectable oil in the antifreeze when we drained that this afternoon.

But in looking at pictures online, I do see two different head gaskets, and the one I have looks like the one for a water pump, as the holes are smaller. Also, can anyone tell me how thick the copper ferules for the water ports are supposed to be? The head nuts were all torqued at 65 lbs and it's as if there was nothing there to seal between the head and block, even no sealer or anything.

Ideas, inspiration, and advice are welcome. Thanks to all in advance.

[Jim Becker]

Wrong head gasket. The right one has holes that match the odd-shaped dark colored area on the block.

[Texas Tony]

Thanks, Mr. Becker, for the reply. I figured as much after looking at the two gaskets. I've been hearing some scuttlebutt about one of the more well-known tractor part suppliers on these threads. Do you have a preference one way or the other regarding a part supplier? My local Case IH house wants nearly $70 just for the head gasket, alone.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Take the IH gasket part number to your local "real" auto part store, by real I do not mean Autozone. Go to Carquest, NAPA, etc. maybe O'reilly, I am not real familiar with them. They should be able to cross it over.

To add to Jim's comments about the wrong head gasket, that one would have probably cuased the engine to run hot if it were worked much due to restricting the water flow. Thermosyphon systems do not like that.

[Texas Tony]

Take the IH gasket part number to your local "real" auto part store, by real I do not mean Autozone. Go to Carquest, NAPA, etc. maybe O'reilly, I am not real familiar with them. They should be able to cross it over.

To add to Jim's comments about the wrong head gasket, that one would have probably cuased the engine to run hot if it were worked much due to restricting the water flow. Thermosyphon systems do not like that.

I agree. Once I saw the small holes, I said to myself, "That ain't gonna work!" Then once I got online and saw the difference, I understood. There was a small part of my fiscally-conservative Bohemian brain that said, "Hey, we can put that on a drill press and drill those holes out and then slather on the aluminum paint and Coppercoat," and then common sense kicked in. I'll be calling my local small-town auto parts store first, then check around with the NAPA store.

Thanks a million for the advice here on this page. You men are all tops!

[Jim Becker]

Steiner has a head gasket set (includes other gaskets needed to remove/replace the head for less than $40. It is for non-pump cooling systems and a 3-1/8 bore. I don't know what bore you have (probably 3-1/8 if new were installed). If you have 3" bore, it should have a different gasket. That gasket may not be available anywhere by now. The 3-1/8 will do but isn't preferred. Look at the Steiner gasket to see what the water passages in the gasket should look like.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS658-valve-grind-gasket-kit

Edit: Fixed the link. That is what happens when I don't test the links after making a post!

[Urbish]

Steiner has a head gasket set (includes other gaskets needed to remove/replace the head for less than $40. It is for non-pump cooling systems and a 3-1/8 bore. I don't know what bore you have (probably 3-1/8 if new were installed). If you have 3" bore, it should have a different gasket. That gasket may not be available anywhere by now. The 3-1/8 will do but isn't preferred. Look at the Steiner gasket to see what the water passages in the gasket should look like.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS658-valve-grind-gasket-ki

Broken link, fixed it for you:
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS658-valve-grind-gasket-kit

[Texas Tony]

Steiner has a head gasket set (includes other gaskets needed to remove/replace the head for less than $40. It is for non-pump cooling systems and a 3-1/8 bore. I don't know what bore you have (probably 3-1/8 if new were installed). If you have 3" bore, it should have a different gasket. That gasket may not be available anywhere by now. The 3-1/8 will do but isn't preferred. Look at the Steiner gasket to see what the water passages in the gasket should look like.
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS658-valve-grind-gasket-ki

On the top of the piston is stamped 113 Standard, so it looks like I'm good. That's one thing the machine shop did right, in that they put it back original.

[Bob McCarty]

You're not going to ask the machine shop to replace the wrong head gasket?

[Texas Tony]

You're not going to ask the machine shop to replace the wrong head gasket?

They screwed up the first time, no way I'm going to let them work on it again. Plus, I already have the head off. I'm going to fix it and then go see them and tell them what I had to do to fix the problem they created. If they reimburse some of my $$$, fine. If not, I can d@mn sure tell others where NOT to take their machine and engine work.

[AL Farmall Boy]

I would run the engine to get it hot and retorque the head bolts. Do a final torque to 80 ft.lbs...........there was an updated bulletin IH sent out in years later for this.