IHC Cub Cadet Forum -- Questions and answers to all of your Cadet related issues.
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Sun Nov 25, 2012 8:46 am
im working on a 582 for someone. its a CCC produced machine not an IH. the clutch pressure plate will not disengage from the friction disc. this is not an issue with the throw-out bearing as the throwout bearing compresses the spring like its supposed to. there doesn't seem to be a teaser srping, seems to me missing, is that the issue. when you operate the clutch with the engine off, the tension gets taken off pressure plate but the pressure plate doesnt pull away from the friction disc, it just rests against the friction disc and the driveshaft continues to spin. if it was in gear it probably would come to a stop but in neutral you can not put it into gear
Sun Nov 25, 2012 10:57 am
Sounds like the tractor has been out in the weather and the pressure plates are rusted and stuck to the disc. You can try locking the clutch/brake pedal down and with the engine NOT RUNNING, use a common screwdriver or stiff putty knife to pry the pressure plates loose from the disc by inserting the tool between the plate and the disc. That should free things up, but if the tractor sets for a period of time they will probably stick again. It would be best to take the clutch/driveshaft assembly out of the tractor, take the clutch apart and clean the rust off the pressure plates. If the driveshaft is worn in that area, it should be replaced because the worn shaft can contribute to the sticking problem. Be careful taking the clutch apart because it is under pressure and can cause you injury. The disassembly procedure can be found in any of the gear drive Cub Cadet service manuals.
Tue Nov 27, 2012 11:38 am
things are not rusted together, you can depress the clutch and the pressure plate can be moved by hand but its not moving away from the friction disc on its own. when you depress the clutch i would think they should separate on their own, they do not. i dont think this tractor has a been sitting outside because its in pretty nice shape; aside from numerous mechanical problems. clutch issues, engine was seized i had to swap it out, and the transmission will not shift into reverse or third, i have another good transmission that i will probably swap in. i will take the shifting fork off and try to fix that trans before i swap it.
Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:05 pm
Sounds like the clutch is working fine. There is no spring to separate the plates when the clutch is depressed. Actually, all that it does is takes away the pressure from the pushing the plates together. With the clutch depressed, the two pressure plates and clutch friction disk will spin independently, although they are still touching, they are just "lightly" touching. When you let the pedal up, the plates press back together on the friction disk, and the transmission will grab.
Wed Nov 28, 2012 2:20 pm
i replaced the teaser spring it now seems like the clutch is functioning properly. now im having trouble getting the bolt holes that bolt the engine lined back up, good grief. i will get it eventually but i took a break it was driving me nuts
Thu Nov 29, 2012 8:12 am
Make sure to lock the clutch pedal down while trying to line up the engine bolt holes. This holds the pressure plate back and gives you a lot of wiggle room for the engine block.
Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:11 pm
i fixed the problems with the 582 clutch. i had to change the flywheel, the part that bolts to the flywheel, and blower housing. the part that botls up to the flywheel on the cub cadet has a bushing/bearing that the driveshaft fits into, the piece that was on the engine was not designed to fit a driveshaft. the donor engine was off a sears craftsman garden tractor and was belt drive, the cub cadet is shaft driven. the flywheel was also different. the engines themselves are identical but the hardware/accessories are all different. if someone swaps out a briggs opposed twin from a older sears L&G tractor to a 582 cub cadet make sure you change all of the hardware. everything works as it should now, next need to fix the transmission. im going to have to remove the shifting fork and find out why the transmission will not shift into 3rd or reverse. this tractor is not my tractor it belongs to a friend of mine that i help with the equipment he resells on his front lawn. he has a ton of parts including another CCC cub cadet transmission that shifts through all of the gears (that one has a creeper gear) and if i cannot figure out why this transmission isnt shifting into third and reverse im going to have to swap that in as well. yikes that means that the driveshaft is going to have to be cut down smaller, hopefully i would be able to do this in the tractor because im sick of removing the clutch.
Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:23 pm
Hate to tell you but you're probably going to find out that the CC PTO clutch will not work on this new engine. I've never seen another Briggs & Stratton or Kohler engine out of anything but a Cub Cadet that has the right crank shaft for the CC PTO clutch. Just a warning. I didn't realize you had pulled one from another brand tractor or would have warned you earlier.
On the positive side, you should be able to remove the tunnel cover and the top plate of the transmission to fix the shifter, without removing the transmission from the tractor.
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