3160 mower deck height issue on a 185 tractor

[MikeEyre74]

Basically, I’m looking to get more height of cut on this machine. Currently, I have the front set at 3 1/2 inches, and I would like 4 inches in the heat of summer… But the rear of the blades are lower than the front at 3 1/4 inches and there is no way to get them higher that I can see? In the rear of the tractor where the long posts connect to the rear end, I have them in the upper most of two attachment holes, but still that is not enough and I don’t see any way to make the height of cut higher? Am I missing something?

[mozer71]

First, I can only briefly describe how the three arbor decks work. Even then, mine is a 3260 which largely depends upon the linkages off the rock shaft. From what I gathered and by experience, it depends on the deck design. The goal is total max height but these are Lo-Boys for a reason. They can navigate side slopes under work, without tipping over, so there is compromise in deck lift.
The lead blade is supposed to cut a path in front of the other two, so that means it is lower. It seems to work that way with a "wind tunnel" design, to a point. When the stuff is high, the deck folds it over so the impact is at the trailing blades. I think that is partially why the Woods decks are reverse in that, they eat the stuff at first and the center blade cuts between. They can be open at the front and either sides.
There isn't a way to change the 3260 unless cut it up but it is pretty cool other than really tall stuff. -and it did that too.

[mozer71]

There are a few things; like a fixed "stop" which prevents the deck from raising too high at front. There is good reason for this, as that little hydraulic cylinder is quite powerful. It can bend things and usually a belt squeal tells you. ( old school as this is, it sends signals) . At max lift, the long drive belt will drag over the back of the deck. I made a platform of two small idler pulleys bolted to the rear of the deck. They are aligned to the long drive belt. In normal mowing, they don't contact but at Max, they keep the belt from running across the deck.

[outdoors4evr]

This particular deck (3160) is designed to be level at a lawn mowing height. The back doesn't really ever raise (much) and the lifting is done with a chain on the front of the deck. Other mower deck designs raise the mower and keep the deck level as it is raised.
I have the 3160A on my 184 and I am not certain of the height it will lift, but it is level when raised. The fixed stop is there to keep the deck from hitting the oil pan.

[MikeEyre74]

Mine does not use a chain to lift. It uses solid metal bars that pull from the mid hitch that are secured on the other end of the bar to the main spars on the deck itself that run front to back. The rear is attached to the rearmost portion of the tractor. The way I see it, it doesn’t seem to me that you can cut any HIGHER than about 3-1/4 inches but you could cut as low as you wanted if you let it down.... 3-1/4 seems a little short to me tho?

[mozer71]

That does seem overly low. My 154 has the tall narrow wheels/ tires so it may sit slightly higher. Set at max height, the deck is at least 6" above level but it is suspended differently. Mine came with a snow blade and the front arms of the deck are attached to part of the rocking snow blade linkage. It came that way. So without the blade/support mounted , the cylinder is still using that rocking linkage. I found it odd too. When the snow blade goes down, the deck raises.
What I'm getting to, is a more articulating linkage which raises your deck further. Raise it to max and see what space is between the deck and body members. It may be some good inches and there are ways to capture them.

[MikeEyre74]

I believe I understand what you’re saying, but if the back of the deck is at the highest mountain point made available to me, there is no way to raise that any higher than it already is. I can raise and lower the front six or 7 inches off the ground, but the front moves a lot more than the rear does when the piston brings the deck up and down. Without being able to put the rear of the deck in a higher position from the factory, there is simply no way to do it? The front of the blades will miss the grass entirely, but it hits on the backside.

[mozer71]

Looking at the rear support bars, see where they pivot. Is it possible to create vertical extensions at the mount points?

[MikeEyre74]

No. It’s kind of right at the edge of the metal that the rear of the deck hinges from... you can only go lower, not higher.

[mozer71]

Mine is different but there has to be a way to gain more lift. My rear bars are curved slightly "ess" shape. They mount on brackets attached to the rear axles mounts...(iirc) I've owned the tractor over 15 years and can't remember now. I will say that flat bar can be beaten into different vertical shapes. I wouldn't try your original but 1 3/4" X 3/8" or something reasonable can be formed with a good vise or anvil.
The other thing is to marry another piece on the existing linkage.

[MikeEyre74]

Hmm. That’s a consideration, yep. I could weld or bolt an additional small piece to the hole that is on the deck extensions there and use that to boost the deck up. I’ll have to take a closer look to see if there’s any restrictions up there but yes, I think that might be a possibility.

[mozer71]

Well, good. I'm not in favor of welding the original stuff because it does work. However, a few holes shouldn't hurt and it can use your original pivot points/ bushings. I was being modest about the height of my deck. I recall the outer edge was 8" above level and the blades near 10" . That doesn't mean much when the weeds are tall as the head lights ( like, I shoulda got another tractor) but it Did actually work. My deck is tucked up under there close but I'm using the main rock shaft's linkages too.
Nope. Disregard those estimates. Right now, is getting more lift for yours.