184 won't start

[Larry B]

I did not mean to test compression with a thumb. Just to tell when the piston was coming up on the cnmpression stroke for setting the timing.

[Hipo giddyup]

Thanks all, I have ordered a compression tester kit. Stay tuned..

[Hipo giddyup]

Hi all just getting back to this thread. I had a few minutes in the garage and just received my compression tester kit. I removed all the plugs and starting with the number one cylinder, I only recorded about 30 psi after 4-5 cranks. Cylinder number two was not much better it was around 15. However, cylinder three and four were up to 120 psi.? I removed the access cover and noticed that all the valves are moving but it looks like there was quite the gap between some of the valves and tappets? Does it sound like valves are not adjusted properly with the first and second cylinder? Or could it be a bad head gasket between the cylinders?

[Eugene]

First - next, wet test results on cylinder #1 and #2.

Could be that a valve or valves in both cylinders are hanging up. So, wet test and post results.

[Hipo giddyup]

What do you mean by wet test? I believe I am supposed to put oil in the cylinder? How is this exactly done so as not to get incorrect results. Thanks !!

[Jim Becker]

. . . all the valves are moving but it looks like there was quite the gap between some of the valves and tappets? . . .

That makes me think some valves are sticky and not closing completely. One sticking intake valve will keep an engine from starting.

[Eugene]

What do you mean by wet test? I believe I am supposed to put oil in the cylinder? How is this exactly done so as not to get incorrect results. Thanks !!

I'm assuming you didn't put any oil on top of each cylinder to get your previous test results. That is correct.

Wet test. Put a tablespoon of engine oil on top of each piston. Crank the engine over a few times. Take the compression test again, record and report the results of both the dry and wet test per cylinder.

Minimum of 10 engine revolutions, that is 5 compression strokes per each test.

[SONNY]

x-2 on Jims post!

[Hipo giddyup]

OK so I just got back from the garage with the dry and wet compression tests.
The dry test is as follows.
Five complete cycles;
Cylinder 1–15 psi,
cylinder 2- 15 psi
cylinder 3- 120 psi
cylinder 4- 124 psi
Wet test are as follows: I added the oil and spun the engine over, then started with the wet tests
Cylinder 1- 18 psi
cylinder 2- 15 psi
Cylinder 3- 160 PSI
cylinder 4- 165 psi
Definitely need some guidance on where to go to next if it is sticking valves or a blown head gasket? I will be ordering the valve cover gasket, new upper and lower radiator hoses, air intake air hose, etc. I think I’ll hold off until I know if I need more parts or not LOL.

Thanks Bill

[Larry B]

You can remove the intake/exhaust manifold and the valve cover and check the lash on all the valves. If nothing odd on cylinders 1 and 2 remove the spark plug from no1 cylinder and crank engine till no1 cylinder has both valve closed and one of the no2 cylinder valves are open. Inject compressed air into no1 cylinder spark plug hole. If you get air out of the no2 cylinder valve port you have a blown head gasket.

[Eugene]

I removed the access cover and noticed that all the valves are moving but it looks like there was quite the gap between some of the valves and tappets?

OK so I just got back from the garage with the dry and wet compression tests.
The dry test is as follows.
Five complete cycles;
Cylinder 1–15 psi,
cylinder 2- 15 psi
cylinder 3- 120 psi
cylinder 4- 124 psi
Wet test are as follows: I added the oil and spun the engine over, then started with the wet tests
Cylinder 1- 18 psi
cylinder 2- 15 psi
Cylinder 3- 160 PSI
cylinder 4- 165 psi
Definitely need some guidance on where to go to next if it is sticking valves or a blown head gasket? I will be ordering the valve cover gasket, new upper and lower radiator hoses, air intake air hose, etc. I think I’ll hold off until I know if I need more parts or not

Sticking valves. Couple cans of spray solvent with the straw. Spark plugs out.

By hand turn engine over until one of the valves in cylinder #1 is at it highest level. Spray solvent under the valve head. Then again in the next fully open valve in that cylinder. Same with cylinder #2.

Let set a while then hand crank over the engine observing the valve action in cylinder #1 and #2. Repeat the spray cycle and cranking the engine over. May take a couple of cycles to free up the valves.

If you have the hood off you can see part of the valves through the spark plug hole. Raise the valves to highest level, spray, rotate engine until tappet is down, wood plug and hammer gently tap the valve down. Repeat.

[Hipo giddyup]

I will give that a try. I assume WD-40 is the preferred lubricant? I know others like PB blaster ??

Again, thanks for everyone’s help!
Bill

[Don McCombs]

WD-40 won’t cut it.

[Eugene]

I will give that a try. I assume WD-40 is the preferred lubricant? I know others like PB blaster ?

Not WD-40 as Don says.

Stop by the auto parts store and see what the oldest guy, at least fifty years old, behind the counter recommends.

There are other good solvents out there, but I use PB Blaster. Have 4 or 5 cans around, in the shop.

A lot of the time the valves will free up in short order. If my suggest solutions to freeing up the valves don't work, I have another suggestion.

Give the stuck valve solutions a serious effort before you have to remove the engine head.

[staninlowerAL]

Agree with Eugene, time and effort to free up the offending valves beats having to remove the head and extract broken head bolts any day IMHO!!