New Cub LowBoy 154 owner

[outdoors4evr]

Don, I'm not sure if the throttle is supposed to only go halfway forward and then can be pushed further forward to go to a higher rev or if the linkage is just not adjusted correctly.

This is just a pivot point adjustment that needs to be tightened up on the throttle lever under the dash.
If you look underneath the left side of the dash, you should find a hole in the metal part where you can reach in with a socket and extension to tighten up the throttle lever. Just snug it up a little until the throttle lever stays where you set it.

I saw that Bob's carries the electronic ignition replacement and the few people who commented on how well it worked. I'm wondering, though, is it really worth it? I mean, I'm thinking three times the price of condenser and points to never have to adjust points again might be worth it on its own but is it that much better?

I put a Pertronix into my 184 some 13 years ago and haven't touched it since. Better check the timing as this tractor has no excuse to diesel. Set your timing at a working RPM (nearly wide open) and then verify that the timing retards as the engine is idled down. If the timing doesn't change, then the timing advance mechanism is not working properly.


If you want a 3-point tiller for your numbered series, you will also need these options:
Note: The PTO turns backward and at engine speed so a normal PTO tiller cannot be used without a PTO Reducer/Reverser
1) 3-point hitch
2) Creeper Gear (I have to till in 1st gear creeper engaged with engine running nearly full throttle)
3) Hydraulic Selector (can get by with a lockout bar or tie downs, but these are very inconvenient)
If you do not have these options, you might want to spend your dollars on a self-powered tiller unit. Something like this: https://www.agri-fab.com/Products/Ground-Engaging/multi-fit-tow-behind-tiller.aspx

[Eugene]

From your initial post.

I plan to use her to keep out little 3 acre property mowed down, for dragging tree cutting out of the woods, maybe pushing some snow of I get a blade, and some light tilling and post holing if I can find some decent implements. For now, though, she'll just be my mower.

Tilling, you will need a creeper and a 3-point. Post holing, you will need a 3-point. Both the creeper and 3-point will be EXPENSIVE. The creeper will need a shorter drive shaft.

They made a post hole attachment for standard Cubs, but it's very hard to come by. I don't know if it would mount on a Numbered Cub.

Edit. I see Outdoors4ever posted while I was writing up this post.

[Brynki]

The big question: Has anyone found a pre-made set from from one of the auto parts stores that works?

The problem with pre-made plug wires is getting them through the cable bracket on top of the engine. They are available from many sources.

Thank you! I was thinking I might just pick up something until I get the right tool to build my own. I bought one tool that looks like it would work but it flattened the ends instead of rounding them to fit into the holes on the cap. I probably need to get a better set of plug wire ends, though, instead of the cheapy ones included in the kit from HamiltonBobs. I was thinking about reusing the old ones but they are proving hard to remove in such a way as to be reusable.

As for the cable bracket, I will take a look at it when I head back out. I'm not sure mine has one on there. Lots of zip ties, I know.

The Brillman site was a HUGE help! I plan to do a pretty in-depth overhaul soon, including replacing the wiring harness, and it looks like they have a lot of great offerings. Now, if I could find a new harness for my BMW motorcycle that doesn't cost as much as the bike is currently worth, I'd be doing much better! LOL!

Thank you for the response! BTW, I noticed your handle is Indy61, do you live in the Indianapolis area?

[Brynki]

Don, I'm not sure if the throttle is supposed to only go halfway forward and then can be pushed further forward to go to a higher rev or if the linkage is just not adjusted correctly.

This is just a pivot point adjustment that needs to be tightened up on the throttle lever under the dash.
If you look underneath the left side of the dash, you should find a hole in the metal part where you can reach in with a socket and extension to tighten up the throttle lever. Just snug it up a little until the throttle lever stays where you set it.

Thank for the response! I'm going to see if I can reach this without removing the dash panel. I can't find my steering wheel puller. I'm going to replace the dash as one of the previous owners made their own. That will be a part of the big rebuild this winter, I'm thinking. I just know that, currently, it is a pain in the arm and back to have to lean forward and hold the throttle lever forward while I'm mowing for long periods of time.

I saw that Bob's carries the electronic ignition replacement and the few people who commented on how well it worked. I'm wondering, though, is it really worth it? I mean, I'm thinking three times the price of condenser and points to never have to adjust points again might be worth it on its own but is it that much better?

I put a Pertronix into my 184 some 13 years ago and haven't touched it since. Better check the timing as this tractor has no excuse to diesel. Set your timing at a working RPM (nearly wide open) and then verify that the timing retards as the engine is idled down. If the timing doesn't change, then the timing advance mechanism is not working properly.[/quote]

Yeah, there are a lot of things that I have been slowly repairing or replacing, every couple of months. I want to get all of the electrical stuff squared away. Part of that will be getting the timing set correctly. I am pretty sure that this is a huge part of the problems I'm having with it.

If you want a 3-point tiller for your numbered series, you will also need these options:
Note: The PTO turns backward and at engine speed so a normal PTO tiller cannot be used without a PTO Reducer/Reverser
1) 3-point hitch
2) Creeper Gear (I have to till in 1st gear creeper engaged with engine running nearly full throttle)
3) Hydraulic Selector (can get by with a lockout bar or tie downs, but these are very inconvenient)
If you do not have these options, you might want to spend your dollars on a self-powered tiller unit. Something like this: https://www.agri-fab.com/Products/Ground-Engaging/multi-fit-tow-behind-tiller.aspx

I've looked at some of the Agri-Fab products when I was using my riding Craftsman mower and trying to get my Gravely rider running. I have two old Gravely tractors, a walk-behind and a rider. I got the rider for free. The previous owner passed away before he could figure out why it wouldn't run. I still have plans to rebuild and store both of those. I have 5 rebuilds planned for this winter: a serious rebuild on my 154, both Gravely, getting the Craftsman back up and running enough to sell it, and rewiring my BMW motorcycles (mice built a nest under my fuel tank and ate my wiring).

I'd love to get all original parts for the 154. Like my plan to sandblast and powdercoat the mower deck and completely rebuild it, I have that on hand. Until I can find the original parts and get them up and running, I'll settle on getting something to get the job done. We haven't had a serious garden since we moved to Maryland because we don't own our own tiller and the rental ones all seem to be complete crap and try to beat my old bones to a paste.

[Brynki]

From your initial post.

I plan to use her to keep out little 3 acre property mowed down, for dragging tree cutting out of the woods, maybe pushing some snow of I get a blade, and some light tilling and post holing if I can find some decent implements. For now, though, she'll just be my mower.

Tilling, you will need a creeper and a 3-point. Post holing, you will need a 3-point. Both the creeper and 3-point will be EXPENSIVE. The creeper will need a shorter drive shaft.

They made a post hole attachment for standard Cubs, but it's very hard to come by. I don't know if it would mount on a Numbered Cub.

Edit. I see Outdoors4ever posted while I was writing up this post.

It's all good, Eugene. I appreciate everyone who learns me something new! Maybe when I do my big rebuild, I'll plan to add in the creeper and figure out the three point. I did notice that TSC has some stuff for building your own 3-point. I don't know if any of that would really work for the 154, though. I'll try to remember to take pics next time I'm in there.

[Brynki]

BTW, does anyone like the new format of HamiltonBob's? I can't seem to find anything on their site, now. I guess I could just go through their Amazon page but it isn't much better to navigate.

[outdoors4evr]

BTW, does anyone like the new format of HamiltonBob's? I can't seem to find anything on their site, now. I guess I could just go through their Amazon page but it isn't much better to navigate.

I am struggling with it! In the meantime, you might just want to give them a call to order parts.

[outdoors4evr]

It's all good, Eugene. I appreciate everyone who learns me something new! Maybe when I do my big rebuild, I'll plan to add in the creeper and figure out the three point. I did notice that TSC has some stuff for building your own 3-point. I don't know if any of that would really work for the 154, though. I'll try to remember to take pics next time I'm in there.

I'd highly recommend the original 3-point hitch setup for the numbered series. It is properly sized for the weight of the tractor. They can be found used occasionally for around $800-$1K. Sometimes it is cheaper to buy a whole parts tractor - Especially if you also need the creeper. Note: Since you are adding this to a 154, be sure to beef up the frame where the rear axle passes through. These are notorious for cracking at that location.

[Brynki]

Thanks for the responses, Outdoors4Evr. The more I look around, the more affordable 154s I find. I keep finding little things on my tractor that need to be repaired. Some of them, as it turns on, might be a little bigger. Ex: The steering knuckle, where it goes from the steering column and redirects up to the front axle flops around. I haven't gotten into this problem, yet, as it is still running (mostly) and driving. When I pull it into the garage this winter to work on it, mainly to replace the entire wiring harness, I will address that. Still, finding some sub-$1k tractors that are running on FB marketplace near enough for me to warrant looking at them has me thinking.

The most recent problem is that it will start up but, as soon as I release the key, it dies. I was planning to replace the ignition switch and positive cabel from the battery this winter. I might have to do that sooner, I guess. I'm about to head back out and see if it might just be a loose connection. It's a bit hot and humid outside and I'm just getting over some kind of cold that kept me out of work for a week. I spent this past week at work struggling to make it through so I'm not wanting to push myself too hard. Still, I need to get the yard mowed. I might go ahead and run to the auto parts store and get some battery cable wire to do that up. I know that it had a little short where it went around a piece of sharp metal. I temp-fixed it with some electrical tape. It has been running well enough since then.

[Brynki]

Update on Old Yeller

A few weeks ago, I was having trouble getting the old girl to start. When she did, finally, start turning over, as soon as I'd release the key, she'd shut down. I first thought I had a problem with the key ignition start switch. I managed to get her to start and stay running so I pulled over in front of the garage to be close enough to fill up a tire that has been losing air. As I got off the tractor, I used the steering wheel as a support as I stepped down, something moved inside and suddenly the tractor shut down. The bracket holding my steering column in place, I knew, had broken a weld but I was still able to use it so... I don't know if something shorted out or what. Regardless, all I get was a clicking noise. I, finally, managed to remove my steering wheel, after buying a new puller as I still can't find my old one, and I got the plate a previous owner had made. I gave the key a twist and identified the solenoid/magnetic switch as the problem. As I looked around under the dash panel, though, I noticed a lot of really bad wiring conditions and a lot of DIY repairs.

I decided to go ahead and get a bunch of stuff on order from Hamilton Bob's. I decided to splurge a little and bought some extra stuff. I got the new solenoid and a new voltage regulator. The regulator wasn't necessary but, to be on the safe side, I decided to get it. It wasn't that expensive, anyway. I got the new main and dash wiring harness and the headlight wiring harness. All of them were pretty brittle and could use an update. I didn't, really, have to install them immediately, anyway. I had already planned to do this as part of my winter project. I went ahead and got a new key ignition switch, too, because why not? Still, if I ended up needing to do it earlier, I had it on hand and in stock and could jump on it. As another part of my winter project, I got the beef up plates that Bob sells for the steering. I still don't completely understand how they work but I'll figure it out. As a part of my disassembly of the dash, I noticed something that I don't think is supposed to be there. It looks like, at some point, someone took an exhaust manifold clamp and installed it on the steering column, just under the dash plate, to hold it securely in place. So, the steering issue might turn out to be more of a problem than I though. I'll take some picture to show y'all later.

To top it all off, I hadn't really been paying attention to the new dash plates Bob sells. I ordered on and, when it came in, I noticed a HUGE difference between the one someone made and installed on my tractor and the original/one Bob sells. I had a BUNCH of additional gauges. I think whoever owned my tractor before was a LOT more knowledgeable about all this stuff than I am. So, now, along with the voltage meter, I have oil pressure, either oil or water temp, and an hour meter. As much as I'd wouldn't mind keeping all of these additional gauges, I think I'm going to trace them all back, and temporarily eliminate them. I want to use the harness and dash plate I got from Bob. Then I might get some sort of box for mounting added car gauges and add them back into the mix. For now, though, I'm not sure if I should just get the solenoid in there, make sure that fixes the problem, get the yard mowed (it is becoming a jungle), and THEN do all of this or try to get everything rewired and then hope that it all works. Thinking it might be best to try to solenoid first. Either way, I'm not sure if some part of the old, shoddy, DIY wiring is the actual problem or it might not be something else... like I just noticed some frame mounted device called a safety starting switch.

Not really in the mood for this, today. I think I'm going to try the solenoid, first, and then go from there.

[Brynki]

When I pulled the old solenoid, it was clicking. When I put the new solenoid in, no click. I'm stymied.

I need to find my multimeter. Grrr....

[Duner]

HamiltonBobscubs.com might get you to site you are more familiar with.

[Brynki]

HamiltonBobscubs.com might get you to site you are more familiar with.

Very nice! Thanks!

[tst]

check your grounds and connections

[Eugene]

When I pulled the old solenoid, it was clicking. When I put the new solenoid in, no click. I'm stymied.

Two battery cable posts and one post marked I and another marked S? Use the S post, ignore the I post.