3 point install question

[Billiards]

I'm installing a 3 pt and my question is.

The main upper bracket that bolts beneath the seat has a slot for the PTO arm which rotates up and down through this slot. For some reason my arm is about 1/8 inch too far towards the back of the tractor. Is this arm moveable to center to the slot or should I mill the slot wider?
Thanks!

[ihcc104]

The arm is not adjustable front to back... I am guessing the bracket that connects the the PTO cam is bent. Try to straighten it out carefully (those PTO parts are expensive if you break it). You shouldn't have to widen the slot to allow it to operate. Either that or the PTO is not located in the correct location to begin with... is the bearing in front of or behind the thick plate the mounts it to the rear end? the bearing and carrier should be forward of the heavy thick bracket

[Eugene]

The control rod, up and down lever, connects to the clutch control arm with a cotter key. There is a spring from the control rod to the clutch control arm. The control rod can move forward and backward within the limits of the slot in the sheet metal panel under the seat.

The end of the clutch control arm does not have to be exactly centered in the sheet metal slot.

[Billiards]

I will go with slightly bent. It did not look perpendicular or parallel to anything so a massaged it a little to square up to everything and it just got inside the slot. I put the lever extension on that connects to the rod/handle and it operates fine.

Another question since you guys know a ton and I'm new to this.
Im installing a diverter valve for the front/rear hydraulics and I keep reading stuff in other threads about a "T" somewhere to connect the valve but I don't see one. Am I just missing it or do I need to cut the line and install hydraulic fittings on both sides of the cut to connect to the diverter?
Thanks again! You guys are awesome!

[ihcc104]

If you are going from a tractor w/o a diverter valve... you will need the diverter valve as well as the hard line that goes from the bottom port on the control valve (in the dash) to the diverter (off the tractor with the diverter valve... it is different than the hard line for tractors w/o the diverter.

There is no "T" in a system with a diverter valve as long as you only have 2 pistons. A hard line connects to the diverter from the control valve in the dash, and rubber lines connect from the diverter back to the 3pt piston and to the belly piston. No "T" needed.

I wish I had pictures to help... I hope some of this make sense

[Eugene]

TC-131, parts manual for numbered cubs, section 10, has a two different pictorials of the hydraulic systems parts layout and how the parts go together. The layouts are for tractors above and below serial number 18709.

If you don't have the parts manual, suggest obtaining one.

Edit. There is a lock out bar made for the 3 point when using the front hydraulic cylinder and a stop on the left front side of the tractor to lock out the front hydraulic cylinder when using the 3 point.

[ihcc104]

Parts Manual

Owners Manual

[outdoors4evr]

Here's a pic from a Hydraulic Selector Valve being put in.
The TEE connected to the hard line on the lower right.

The missing line is an L shape from the hard line to the back side of the hydraulic selector valve.

[outdoors4evr]

Ended up hacking it together with an L and an 18" long hydraulic hose line. It definitely isn't ideal installation as the hose makes a large loop around the driveshaft (lots of space), but it works with materials available.

[Farmall65]

It might be the control arm

[Billiards]

TC-131, parts manual for numbered cubs, section 10, has a two different pictorials of the hydraulic systems parts layout and how the parts go together. The layouts are for tractors above and below serial number 18709.

If you don't have the parts manual, suggest obtaining one.

Edit. There is a lock out bar made for the 3 point when using the front hydraulic cylinder and a stop on the left front side of the tractor to lock out the front hydraulic cylinder when using the 3 point.

If you have a diverting valve is there any reason you can't remove the lockout bar for rear cylinder and not stop the front cylinder so both can be operated at the same time? Also is the lockout bar a pin that's put through the fitting port?

Thanks again everyone! This helps me a lot. I'll post some pics soon.

[Eugene]

On my 154, with 2 each diverter valves, I can only operate either the 3-point or the mid mounted hydraulic cylinder.

The Operator's Manual has photos of the lock bar for the 3-point in the three-point hitch section and a picture of the lock out mechanism for the mid mounted cylinder in the hydraulic lift section.

[outdoors4evr]

Even without the diverter valve (Tee in place of the valve) the two cylinders never really operate at the "same time". Whichever one has less weight on it lifts first, then when that one hits its stop then the other one actuates.
The diverter valve allows you to select and lift one valve at a time and hold the other cylinder in place where it was last left without having to mechanically fix one of the cylinders in place.

[Billiards]

Again I thank everyone for the help! Figured I'd throw a few pics up for those interested.



Hitch when I bought it






Doing a little painting.






Before tear down.







Diverter valve.






After Install.

[ihcc104]

Billiards, how did you make that 90deg hard line to connect your diverter valve to the existing line coming from the control valve?

Mind sharing the sizes used? I am new to hydraulics, and the different threads and connectors are crazy to me.