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How Tools Work.

Anything that might not belong on the other message boards!
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Arizona Mike
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Tractors Owned: 6 Cubs and no mas.

1947 Circle series Farmall Cub with Armstrong lift, belt pulley, 5"rims 6" tires, SN 563

1949 Farmall Cub with high crop option and hydraulics

1955 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1955 International Cub Loboy with fast hitch

1957 Farmall Cub with fast hitch

1959 Farmall Cub with fast hitch
Location: way high up in the Huachuca Mt. at the bottom of a deep dark canyon

How Tools Work.

Postby Arizona Mike » Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:39 am

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands, so it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly stained, heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Yeou ****...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood blisters. The tool used most often by all women.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touchup jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy-duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub that you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or ½ socket you've been searching for the last 45 minutes.

TABLE SAW: A large, stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes, thereby ending any possible future use.

RADIAL ARM SAW: A large, stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to scare neophytes into choosing another line of work.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. Women excel at using this tool.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal- burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 30 years ago by someone at Ford, and instantly rounds off their heads. Also used to quickly snap off lug nuts .

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Women primarily use it to make gaping holes in walls when hanging pictures.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
"The time you spend making sure you are safe is probably the most productive time you can spend!"
George Willer



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deputy jailer
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10+ Years

Postby deputy jailer » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:16 pm

So true :D :D :D

redfin
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Postby redfin » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:29 pm

:tractor:


I am guilty of at least 90% of those at one time or the other myself.

Redfin :D :D :D :D

Billy Fussell
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Postby Billy Fussell » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:50 pm

Truer words were never spoken.

billy

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KETCHAM
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Postby KETCHAM » Thu Jan 24, 2008 6:50 pm

What you got against FORD!!!Just because they made me unemployed???I like the last one the best.I usally don't trow things,cause then I have to find them.Tools are getting way to $$$$$ to do that!!!!I like breaking the lanuage barrier sometimes.I like [better watch this]lanuages I don't know so I mimick them. :twisted: :twisted: Kevin how did the T/C block go????
47 CUB[Krusty] 49 CUB[Ollie] 50 H-- PLOWS DISCS MOWERS AND lots more stuff!!Life is to short -Have fun now cause ya ain't gonna be here long!!!!

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c172skyhawk2
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Location: Georgia, Winder

Postby c172skyhawk2 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:33 pm

it is a good thing to know that i am using my tools the correct way. :lol:
Fly it like you stole it
Low and slow, that's my tempo

cubbrian
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Tractors Owned: 1955 Cub w/9 different 1 point implements
1948 Cub
1948 McCormick W-6
1949 H
1949 M
1961 560 w/ 412 fast hitch plow
1966 140
1973 666
Allis Chalmers C w/sickle mower
Case 400
Economy 14 hp tractor
Location: IN, New Harmony

Postby cubbrian » Thu Jan 24, 2008 11:19 pm

I cannot agree more. I had a college instructor constantly preach "always use the right tool for the job". I see that I am.

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John *.?-!.* cub owner
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Postby John *.?-!.* cub owner » Fri Jan 25, 2008 9:06 am

A follow up, the If you are working outside (as I did most of my life) the Dammit tool after being thrown, becomes a WHERETHEHECKDIDTHATTHINGGO tool while you are trying to find it.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!

Bill E Bob
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Postby Bill E Bob » Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:27 am

Looks like there was some good out of that. You could use the too-
short stud (Skillsaw) to pry the bumper off the hydraulic jack :lol: :wink:


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