Distributor Question

[BIGHOSS]

I realize that this is a question about a non-Cub tractor, but I am sure that someone on here knows this.

Do other tractors, in particular a 1010 John Deere, use a jumper wire to go from the coil post to the points. I was looking at one today and it looks to me that the points are about 45-50 degrees away from the coil post. The Cub's points attach directly to the post along with the condenser.

I may have not made myself clear, but the condenser wire was going counter-clockwise to the points and the jumper wire going clockwise from coil post (nut) to points.
Is this the way to install points and condenser on a non-Cub?

[Bus Driver]

I do not know about the 1010 distributor, but there are many variations in the details from one manufacturer to another. Is that a Delco unit on the 1010?

[junkman1946]

I don't completely understand the question. But in every battery ignition Ive ever seen the wire from the "out" post on the coil goes to the terminal on the points as does the wire or strap from the condensor. The condensor can be attached at either the points, the coil, or anywhere along the way.

[BIGHOSS]

I am not sure what brand of dist. I have. It has spring clips to hold cap, not screws as some Delcos have. It could be a Wico, but that is just a guess.

I will try to explain further. The post, that the points rests on and the terminal that the spring of the points and wire from condenser attach, is at about 10:00. The points reach from 10:00 to about 1:00, where the adjusting screw is located. The condenser is mounted about 4:00 with the wire going clockwise to connect with the points. But, there is an insulated post at 6:00 that the coil wire is connected. Then, in order to get fire to the points from coil, a short jumper wire was used inside the dist. from the coil going clockwise to the same locatiion as the point and condenser.

Clear as mud huh?

[Boss Hog]

BigHoss, a lot of other types of engines have the jumper wire as you call it. It is quite normal
David

[BIGHOSS]

Thanks David. Happy New Year.

I admit to be "points/distributor" challanged. The "jumper" wire is toast so, I need to replace it. I needs points, condenser, etc. So, I plan to check with NAPA tomorrow about these parts and see if a wire is available. If not, I can make one up. I just need to come up with 90 deg. spade terminals.

[BIGHOSS]

I don't want to beat this subject to death, but I still have a problem. I need a short course in distributor 101.

Today, I installed new points, condenser and "jumper" wire in distributor. I am getting a dead short in the dist, when ignition is turned on. Smoke coming from coil wire at distrubutor. I am getting continuity from points, condenser, base plate, etc. to ground. The points seem to be insulated at the post, but the adjustment screw that attaches points to plate is not insulated, Question, How are the points, base plate, condenser, etc, insulated, so they are not grounded? If not, how do you keep from having a dead short?

[rondellh]

The breaker assembly should be insulated from the distributor at the pivot point and the rubbing block. If it makes contact anywhere else than the stationary contact there is the issue.
On other place where you may want to inspect is the terminal that goes through the distributor housing. This should be insulated as well. i hav efound in the past where they have grounded out there.
Also are you checking for a short with the points open or closed?

Rondell

[Bigdog]

Hoss, the moveable arm on the points is insulated from ground. The fixed contact is ground. The lead from the coil primary should enter the distributor through an insulated terminal in the distributor base. Then the jumper wire runs to the insulated block that the moveable arm spring and condensor are attached to. If the condensor is shorted or if any of these connections is grounded nothing will work. Hold the points open and check the side terminal resistance to ground. It should show open.

[BIGHOSS]

Thanks for the quick replies!

The points were open, because I was setting gap. The base seems to be made of plastic, bakelite or some other non-conductive material. If that is true, why does the terminal need to be insulated? I am not questioning your answer, because the terminal is insulated, maybe not very well.

[BIGHOSS]

Still fighting the distributor. So far, it is winning!

The dist. is a Prestolite. The outside housing is made of plastic or some other non-conductive material. The plate on the inside that the points and condenser fasten to is made of steel. There is a copper strip that come up from somewhere down in the dist. and fastened to the plate to provide a ground.
The problem is a threaded tab that is turned up on the plate for the points spring, condenser and hot wire to connect. As the plate is gounded by the copper strip, the points connection has to be insulated from the plate. There is a part of a fiber spacer here, but part of it must be gone. So the points are being grounded here and they must not be.

I have been to the local John Deere dealer (this is from a 1010) with no luck finding the parts. I will try local auto-electric places to see if I can find one.
Does anyone out there know what this insulated spacer looks like? What can I do to make this connection insulated?

[Bigdog]

If you can find a number on the distributor you should be able to locate replacement parts at NAPA or similar place. I'm sure it was used on more than one application.
You might also try an e-bay search under Prestolite distributors or just Prestolite to see what comes up.
All the block needs to be is an insulating material such as plastic or bakelite or even nylon. Perhaps if you look at what you have left you will be able to visualize what is missing.

[Jim Becker]

Does the part look like #13 in this drawing?
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Cub%20 ... 012-27.jpg

I wouldn't be surprised if the same part shows up in many (all?) Prestolite distributors. The IH part number (539933R1) for it looks like it is discontinued. If you have a local dealer willing/able to order from the Parts Depot, they have 5 of them in stock.

If I went that route (having a CaseIH dealer special order a discontinued part that I intended to use in a John Deere), I would take my own lumps if it didn't fit. I wouldn't try to return it!

[BIGHOSS]

Thanks Jim. That's it exactly. I will call our local IH dealer tomorrow with these p/ns.

You don't know how it pains me to admit that I am working on a GREEN tractor. My best excuse (and the truth) is that the tractor also belonged to my dad, as did the 1947 Uncle Bob Cub that I am working on. I will try to add another tear jerking note. My soon to be 90 year old mother needs to sell the Deere, but I have got to get it running first. That's also the truth.

Thanks again for your help.

[BIGHOSS]

P.S.
I forgot to add. I have been scratching my head all day to figure out how to insulate this connection. The clip that attaches to the tab is similar to a tinnerman clip. The trick is to insulate both the clip and the screw that fastens all of this together so not to ground the points, condenser, etc. It looks as if the clip and the 3 connections, (points, condenser and hot wire) have to straddle the screw without touching the clip or screw or nut.