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Farmall B carb. question
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Farmall B carb. question
Hello,
I have a Model B and it has an odd carb. on it... It's a Marvel Schebler TSX-869.
I can't find any info on the TSX-869... I'm gonna have the carb. rebuilt, and according to my manuals, the carb. should be a TSX-157. I can't even find rebuild kits for this TSX-869.
Anyone have any idea what I have here, or where I can find out?
Pics belows:
Thanks for your help!
Gene
I have a Model B and it has an odd carb. on it... It's a Marvel Schebler TSX-869.
I can't find any info on the TSX-869... I'm gonna have the carb. rebuilt, and according to my manuals, the carb. should be a TSX-157. I can't even find rebuild kits for this TSX-869.
Anyone have any idea what I have here, or where I can find out?
Pics belows:
Thanks for your help!
Gene
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Looks like it is a transplant off an Allis Chalmers.
You can get a kit here http://www.ytmag.com//store/product_fil ... _16765.htm
You can get a kit here http://www.ytmag.com//store/product_fil ... _16765.htm
49 Super A (Tinker) 47 Ford 2N (Cricket)
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
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Hmmm, that's odd... I've not had the tractor running yet, but the fellow I bought it from said it was running good when it was parked.
Thanks for the link. I was searching for Farmall parts... The possibility of it coming off another brand never crossed my mind. I hope it doesn't present a problem.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the link. I was searching for Farmall parts... The possibility of it coming off another brand never crossed my mind. I hope it doesn't present a problem.
Thanks again!
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No telling how it got switched.
Even if it seemed to be running properly, there is some reason they put the other model on it. May be worth looking into picking up the correct carb.
Even if it seemed to be running properly, there is some reason they put the other model on it. May be worth looking into picking up the correct carb.
49 Super A (Tinker) 47 Ford 2N (Cricket)
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
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If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer.
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Well shucks..... Decisions, decisions.....
I figure it is going to cost around $25 for the rebuild kit, then probably $40-$50 to have the rebuild done (I'm guessing here) for a total of $65-$75.
I just done a quick search at Yesterdays Tractors, and it appears I can pick up a new Zenith for $140.49 or a rebuilt replacement for the original Marvel Schebler (TSX-157) for $147.39 (these prices are minus a core charge).
Perhaps I would be better off picking up the correct carburetor for my model B... If I decide to go this route, which one would you folks recommend, the Zenith or the Marvel Schebler replacement? I assume the Zenith model would okay without having to modify the linkage???
Thanks again for any imput!
I figure it is going to cost around $25 for the rebuild kit, then probably $40-$50 to have the rebuild done (I'm guessing here) for a total of $65-$75.
I just done a quick search at Yesterdays Tractors, and it appears I can pick up a new Zenith for $140.49 or a rebuilt replacement for the original Marvel Schebler (TSX-157) for $147.39 (these prices are minus a core charge).
Perhaps I would be better off picking up the correct carburetor for my model B... If I decide to go this route, which one would you folks recommend, the Zenith or the Marvel Schebler replacement? I assume the Zenith model would okay without having to modify the linkage???
Thanks again for any imput!
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If your carburetor fits the manifold and intake hose and the linkages work why would you want to change it? Regardless of where it came from it's designed to mix air and fuel in a similar proportion and should work well. I'd clean it up and use it.
Some Olivers, Cases, Allis-Chalmers, and Fords in my barn also use the Marvel carburetors.
Some Olivers, Cases, Allis-Chalmers, and Fords in my barn also use the Marvel carburetors.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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The TSX series is a very simple carb. I would do the rebuild myself, then put the carb back on the tractor and see how well it works. If you have a bunch of extra parts from other carb kits, or access to flat round gaskets, you may not need to purchase a rebuild kit.
The 869 is not in any of my manuals. However, the main difference between numbers is the idle jet and main jet.
Gallon can of carb cleaner will last for years and is cheaper than having someoneelse dip the carb and then blow it out with compressed air.
Eugene
The 869 is not in any of my manuals. However, the main difference between numbers is the idle jet and main jet.
Gallon can of carb cleaner will last for years and is cheaper than having someoneelse dip the carb and then blow it out with compressed air.
Eugene
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George Willer wrote:If your carburetor fits the manifold and intake hose and the linkages work why would you want to change it? Regardless of where it came from it's designed to mix air and fuel in a similar proportion and should work well. I'd clean it up and use it.
Some Olivers, Cases, Allis-Chalmers, and Fords in my barn also use the Marvel carburetors.
Mr. Willer,
I appreciate your post!
I don't know a great deal about mechanic work, but between a good friend who fiddles with old tractors and researching online, I'm learning as I go....
The carb. bolts up just fine and the intake is good.... I was just wanting a little assurance that it would be okay before I spent $65-$75 on a rebuild. Now that I know it should work out okay, I am going to go ahead and order the rebuild kit for my carb.
The next thing I have to contend with is a dirty gastank... I've been reading here about cleaning them out and sealing them. Still a little undecided on whether I will attempt this myself, or just let a shop do it...
Thanks again!
Gene
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Eugene wrote:The TSX series is a very simple carb. I would do the rebuild myself, then put the carb back on the tractor and see how well it works. If you have a bunch of extra parts from other carb kits, or access to flat round gaskets, you may not need to purchase a rebuild kit.
The 869 is not in any of my manuals. However, the main difference between numbers is the idle jet and main jet.
Gallon can of carb cleaner will last for years and is cheaper than having someoneelse dip the carb and then blow it out with compressed air.
Eugene
Eugene,
Thank you for your reply as well!
I've not done a lot of mechanic work, but I love doing things myself if I think I can get the job done without fouling up something important! lol
I'm going to order the kit and I'll decide when it arrives whether or not I should attempt it myself.
Thanks again!
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gene,
rebuilding those types of carbs sre simple, ask your friend to be present when you take it apart. there shouldnt be that many parts inside of the carb. the first carb i ever did was a motorcycle carb < with my bud telling me what to do > and it still works after 15 years. i did the carb on my m this year and it was very easy to do. once you get the carb cleaned up first they are simple to fix. i have seen alot of those marvel carbs on fords, and i would keep the one you have to use.
good luck!
john
rebuilding those types of carbs sre simple, ask your friend to be present when you take it apart. there shouldnt be that many parts inside of the carb. the first carb i ever did was a motorcycle carb < with my bud telling me what to do > and it still works after 15 years. i did the carb on my m this year and it was very easy to do. once you get the carb cleaned up first they are simple to fix. i have seen alot of those marvel carbs on fords, and i would keep the one you have to use.
good luck!
john
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JBall8019 wrote:gene,
rebuilding those types of carbs sre simple, ask your friend to be present when you take it apart. there shouldnt be that many parts inside of the carb. the first carb i ever did was a motorcycle carb < with my bud telling me what to do > and it still works after 15 years. i did the carb on my m this year and it was very easy to do. once you get the carb cleaned up first they are simple to fix. i have seen alot of those marvel carbs on fords, and i would keep the one you have to use.
good luck!
john
John,
Thank you for your response!
I love tinkering with things and think I will give the carb. rebuild a shot! If the kit comes with descent directions I think I'll be okay. I'll probably take a lot of digital pictures as I go so I will atleast have some sort of reference as to how it once looked. lol
I'll let you folks know how it turns out!
Thanks again for all the advice, suggestions, and help... I really appreciate it!!!
Gene
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GeneL74 wrote:
I've not done a lot of mechanic work, but I love doing things myself if I think I can get the job done without fouling up something important! lol
I'm going to order the kit and I'll decide when it arrives whether or not I should attempt it myself.
Thanks again!
Gene:
On the gas tank, take it to a good local reliable Rad/Tank Repair Shop and have them purge, clean, fix and seal the tank with Red Kote. It will last for years and is well worth the price. Should be around $75.00US or about what the rebuild kit will cost. And it will help keep the crud out of the carb, so a rebuild won't be necessary again in the near future..
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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LiL' Red wrote:I would question how well that carb will work since it was designed for an engine with about twice the cubic inch displacement of your B.
Thank you for replying!
After learning that the carb. wasn't the original one that came on my B, I had/have no idea whether it will work or not... Thats the reason I asked for help on here and other members say it should be fine. Anyway, the rebuild kit is on the way, so I guess I will find out. I'm definitely gonna try it before buying a new/rebuilt carb.
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