Clutch problems on my cadet 70

[BigBill]

Ok i got really disgusted and put it back together I only had the pin out of the shaft and the cotter pin out of the linkage and release arm.

When i started it up the clutch worked perfect but after a little while it started sticking again. I tried readjusting it but there was no difference. I did notice that someone had it apart before and the clutch assembly looks like its warped a little because it wobbles as it turns slow.

Now i did something i would never think of doing. Since these tractors were sitting for many years in a damp enviorment in a garage with running water(drainage) flowing most of the time I figure it may have some rust in it too. I shutoff the engine when the clutch was free and locked the pedal so the clutch is working and the brake is on. I then soaked the clutch assembly with a good penetrating oil. I then started the engine and worked the clutch pedal whilke it was in gear. After two good soakings I just let the engine idle with the clutch pedal all the way down so if there is any high spots it may wear in. Right now the clutch works and locks up ok and the tractor can stop with the engine running and i can chanmge gears now too. I know it still needs work but at least its working for now whilke i order the parts to fix it. I let it sit with the pedal still locked down. Plus i let it idle a longtime with the clutch pedal locked down too while it was in gear too.

This tractor really tested my willingness to repair it. At one point i was thinking its parts anyway i look at it but i didn't give up yet on it.

I did drive it thru my breezeway when the clutch locked up before i fixed it. Luckily its not enclosed yet.

[junkman1946]

Sounds like a fix Bill. The only thing to watch out for is the throwout bearing, there packed with grease and supposed to be sealed. Sometimes as they get older the little cover that forms the "seal" gets loose. If its loose the penetrating oil could get in and wash out the bearing of lubricant. Try a U- Joint grease "needle" you may be able to get some grease back in there if its neede. Also if the clutch begins to slip, spray some brake cleaner on the fibre disc. Frank

[BigBill]

I think i found "THE" problem. I have a broken spring between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate disc, can that screw things up?

The thing is it was working fine while doing my driveway then all of a sudden i couldn't stop because when i floored the pedal nothing happened the clutch won't release. Then sometimes it would work and sometimes it wouldn't. I made my breezeway a drive thru I took out all my log racks when i went to stop.

[junkman1946]

If your talking about a little spring about 3/4inch long - they call that nthe teaser spring. I think that just holds a little pressure on the clutch?????. If its the 6in. long main spring, that could definitly be your problem. Im sure when Paul B. reads your post he'll be able to give you the straight scoop. Sorry I couldnt be more help. Frank

[hooterville hillbilly]

The teaser spring goes between the plates to ease the engagement and help seperate the disc when releaseing the clutch. I replaced mine with a split lock washer, works great. but that probably isn't what you are looking at from what you describe

[hooterville hillbilly]

Go back in the posts to page 11 and see the post about the clutch problems. Someone posted a helpful article about pulling tractor clutches that was really helpful when I went through the clutch on my 126. Thats where I found the tip for the teaser spring.

[BigBill]

Yup its the teaser spring and i'm having releasing problems too.

[lonnyb]

The teaser spring goes between the plates to ease the engagement and help seperate the disc when releaseing the clutch. I replaced mine with a split lock washer, works great. but that probably isn't what you are looking at from what you describe

The teaser spring defently does not go inbetween the plates, it goes between the throwout bearing and the slideing preasureplate.
The split lock washer is recomended between the preasure plates by those who use their cubs mainly for tractor pulling.

Another thing to think about is those pesky anti rattle springs, they do hold up the clutch disk and will also cause the clutch not to disengage completley causeing gear grinding when shifting gears.

[BigBill]

My 3 anti-rattle springs are long gone. The teaser spring is broken in half. My clutch still grabs and locks up ok i'm pushing dirt with no slippage. And the rear tires are turning.

[hooterville hillbilly]

Lonnie is right about the teaser spring not between the plates. I wrote before I thought. But the split washer is a great soltion and it give really smooth starts. I've been pleased with the results.

[BigBill]

I haven't touched it yet but my gears are still turning even when i have the clutch/brake all the way down. If i start the tractor in gear its driveable if not it grinds. I guess its one more thing on my thing to do list as my repair list is growing more everyday now.

My 122 cadet I hear a rattle when the clutch pedal is up. I think the pedal return spring is broken but i'm afraid to look now to see whats wrong with that. If i raise the pedal the noise stops. I purchased the 122 to cut the grass while i repair my 154 just incase i run into needing more parts than i already have.

Luckily i haven't started up my 100 cadet yet either i'm afraid too because my repair plate is full way beyond what i can do right now with the grass turning green already. My 154 needs the tranny repaired and the weather isn't looking too good either. I'm getting into a repair buffet with everything needing work.

I guess its one thing at a time and pop a few cold ones inbetween. I'm trying to repair everything before it gets time to go bass fishing....

Have you ever gotten to the point were everything goes wrong everytime you touch something? Kidding but i can see why everyone does restores
there tractors from the bottom up now. There's no excuse for my ignorance thats what i need to do with each one, one at a time.