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Touch Control Overhaul
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2003 6:29 pm
- Location: Battle Ground, WA
Touch Control Overhaul
I'm in the middle of overhauling my touch control unit and have a few questions. Can anyone help me with them?
1. The Touch Control Manual doesn't show a picture of the control valve and O-rings. There was only one o-ring on it when it came apart and it appears there shold be 4. I going to have some extras left over from my rebuild kit if only one ring goes on, but I need some help in knowing for sure which one goes where?? The 4 that might work are 3 different sizes.
2. Is a Case/IH dealer the best place to get original color paint or is there a color I can ask for at an automotive paint shop?
3. The Touch Control Block had a cracked off front mounting ear (where it bolts to the tractor). The crack went up into the reservoir so fluid was leaking out. I brought it to a shop and had it brazed back on. They did a good job, but now I'm wondering how much stress it will be able to take when I go back to work. Is there anything I can do to help reduce the stress on it, should I avoid heavy pushing with the blade, or am I worried about nothing?
Spring's just around the corner, so it's time to get this project wrapped up! Any help you guys can give me would be appreciated.
1. The Touch Control Manual doesn't show a picture of the control valve and O-rings. There was only one o-ring on it when it came apart and it appears there shold be 4. I going to have some extras left over from my rebuild kit if only one ring goes on, but I need some help in knowing for sure which one goes where?? The 4 that might work are 3 different sizes.
2. Is a Case/IH dealer the best place to get original color paint or is there a color I can ask for at an automotive paint shop?
3. The Touch Control Block had a cracked off front mounting ear (where it bolts to the tractor). The crack went up into the reservoir so fluid was leaking out. I brought it to a shop and had it brazed back on. They did a good job, but now I'm wondering how much stress it will be able to take when I go back to work. Is there anything I can do to help reduce the stress on it, should I avoid heavy pushing with the blade, or am I worried about nothing?
Spring's just around the corner, so it's time to get this project wrapped up! Any help you guys can give me would be appreciated.
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It has been a while since I overhauled mine, but if I remember correctly, there is only the one. That is also what my parts book shows, for both early and late. I think the same overhaul kit is used on both ealry and late versiona of the touch control, so not all parts will be used.
The red paiint is IH2150, most places that sell paint can mix it for you.
Stress on your touch control housing is from lifting. Pushing with the blade provides stress aginst the torque tube where the blade braces bolt on, but not on the touch control unless raising the blade. Before you mount the housing make sure it sets evenly. It is cast iron, which doesn't have any give. If it doesn't set flat, it stands a good chance of breaking again.
The red paiint is IH2150, most places that sell paint can mix it for you.
Stress on your touch control housing is from lifting. Pushing with the blade provides stress aginst the torque tube where the blade braces bolt on, but not on the touch control unless raising the blade. Before you mount the housing make sure it sets evenly. It is cast iron, which doesn't have any give. If it doesn't set flat, it stands a good chance of breaking again.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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John has dealt with all the questions very well. Only thing I can add is on the paint. Yup, IH 2150 Rouge Red. If you go to the Cub Manual Server and check under Paint and Other Finish ?'s, you will see the Paint Chart. That should provide you with some Paint Codes that you can take to your local Automotive Paint Shop.
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sat Nov 22, 2003 6:29 pm
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Thanks for the quick reply guys!
One question though on the o-rings. The control valve shaft has a hole drilled through it's center that would allow fluid to flow between different "chambers" if O-rings were used to seal between the areas. It still looks to me like there should be at least 3 o-rings on the rod. Two to control and direct the fluid depending on the rod's position and a 3rd for an outside seal.
Any comments?
One question though on the o-rings. The control valve shaft has a hole drilled through it's center that would allow fluid to flow between different "chambers" if O-rings were used to seal between the areas. It still looks to me like there should be at least 3 o-rings on the rod. Two to control and direct the fluid depending on the rod's position and a 3rd for an outside seal.
Any comments?
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- Cub Pro
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http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/I&T%20IH-50%20Shop%20Manuals/IH-50%20Complete/Page%2044.jpg
Sorry for big picture but bigger is better when trying to see.
I changed this from an in-line image to a URL.
JB
Sorry for big picture but bigger is better when trying to see.
I changed this from an in-line image to a URL.
JB
Young man for work, old man for advice
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- 10+ Years
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Well, I guess I can't argue with a picture like that! It definitely shows only one O-ring on the valve spool. Mine is the early type (my Cub's a 1950).
I'm still wondering about the reason for the drilled out shaft though. You can see in Jim's picture that there are three areas with a smaller diameter (actually 4, but I'm not counting the rear one). The two larger diameter areas between the three small ones have grooves cut in them that would be perfect for an o-ring. you can blow air through the hole in the first small diameter section and it comes out the hole in the third section.
There are allen screws in both ends of the shaft. The front end does hold the linkage parts like Donny said, but the back screw is just used to block the hole in the end of the shaft.
I'm still wondering about the reason for the drilled out shaft though. You can see in Jim's picture that there are three areas with a smaller diameter (actually 4, but I'm not counting the rear one). The two larger diameter areas between the three small ones have grooves cut in them that would be perfect for an o-ring. you can blow air through the hole in the first small diameter section and it comes out the hole in the third section.
There are allen screws in both ends of the shaft. The front end does hold the linkage parts like Donny said, but the back screw is just used to block the hole in the end of the shaft.
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67 International Cub Loboy
57 Farmall 130 - Location: Northern Ontario
DaveM,
I did one last year on my '49.
The front left mounting ear had been repaired in the same manner yours has. The job was not the greatest though as it was still leaking by the gasket, I fixed that by filing down the rough finish of the braze job, applied a bit of silicone to the gasket and put it back together, no more leak all winter so far, and no problems either.
I'm soon going to overhaul a TC for my '67, hope it goes well.
I did one last year on my '49.
The front left mounting ear had been repaired in the same manner yours has. The job was not the greatest though as it was still leaking by the gasket, I fixed that by filing down the rough finish of the braze job, applied a bit of silicone to the gasket and put it back together, no more leak all winter so far, and no problems either.
I'm soon going to overhaul a TC for my '67, hope it goes well.
Just Do It !
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- 10+ Years
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I too will be starting a Touch COntrol rebuid in about two weeks. I have the old style. I have always read all I could find and realize the word for this is clean, clean, and clean. Aside from replacing the old parts with the ones in the kit, is there anything else that should be done during this time. I do suspect I should take a lot of notes and pic as to where all those parts go. Apprecieate any tips.
Dan Stuckey
Altoona, Pa
Dan Stuckey
Altoona, Pa
Enjoy life, do what you can, and quit your complaining. This will make life better!
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 28706
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 8:37 pm
- Zip Code: E1A7J3
- Skype Name: R.H. "Rudi" Saueracker, SSM
- Tractors Owned: 1947 Cub "Granny"
1948 Cub "Ellie-Mae"
1968 Cub Lo-Boy
Dad's Putt-Putt
IH 129 CC
McCormick 100 Manure Spreader
McCormick 100-H Manure Spreader
Post Hole Digger
M-H #1 Potato Digger - Circle of Safety: Y
- Twitter ID: Rudi Saueracker, SSM
- Location: NB Dieppe, Canada
Hey guys:
This would be a great article for the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section. There is always questions ongoing about the Touch Control Rebuild and it would be nice if one of you guys who are going to do a complete rebuild would volunteer to take pics and write a narrative on what you all did in the rebuild.
I know a lot of Cubbers would really appreciate this immensely. Any takers????
This would be a great article for the Maintenance Tips and Techniques section. There is always questions ongoing about the Touch Control Rebuild and it would be nice if one of you guys who are going to do a complete rebuild would volunteer to take pics and write a narrative on what you all did in the rebuild.
I know a lot of Cubbers would really appreciate this immensely. Any takers????
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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- 10+ Years
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touch control overhaul
Just put mine back togther yesterday. did not use but one o-ring on control valve. Only problem was that when putting bottom blate back on broke bolt off and some more did not feel good when torqueing to 35Ft. lbs.
one question that i had was, does the Piston sleeve boot go over the piston part or to the inside. this is where it was wheen I took it apart.![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
one question that i had was, does the Piston sleeve boot go over the piston part or to the inside. this is where it was wheen I took it apart.
![Question :?:](./images/smilies/icon_question.gif)
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
On the old style, the boot went over a lip on the housing with a thin wire twisted around it to hold it there. The boot that is supplied now only goes over the knuckel on the shaft, which was apparently the way most of the newer style ones were made. If you want a boot that fits the way the original did, get one for a Super A or for a C.
If you are not part of the solution,
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you are part of the problem!!!
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Re: touch control overhaul
cccub wrote:Just put mine back togther yesterday. did not use but one o-ring on control valve. Only problem was that when putting bottom blate back on broke bolt off and some more did not feel good when torqueing to 35Ft. lbs.
I know that's what the manual says, but 35 ft. lbs. is WAY too much for a 5/16" bolt! It must be a mis-print. I would expect something more like 13-17 ft. lbs. The connecting rods are also 5/16", but special high strength bolts and their torque is 16 ft. lbs.
George Willer
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
http://gwill.net
The most affectionate creature in the world is a wet dog. Ambrose Bierce
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