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Camshaft & idler gears
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 40023
- Tractors Owned: 1948 FCub
1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Fisherville
Camshaft & idler gears
I have the engine mounted on the engine stand up side down and I am in the process of disassembly. This is a first time for me and you guys have given me the courage to attempt this rebuild, thanks. When I removed the main bearings the pistons almost fell out on the floor! I knew it needed rings. Everything looks to be in great shape. No scars or grooves that I can see but I will have the machine shop do the inspection.
Here is my question - I had to stop because I could not remove the camshaft & idler gears. Are these pressed on? What tool should I use and is there any danger in breaking them? I didn't want to mess anything up.
I guess it's off to Harbor Freight again!
Thanks
Here is my question - I had to stop because I could not remove the camshaft & idler gears. Are these pressed on? What tool should I use and is there any danger in breaking them? I didn't want to mess anything up.
I guess it's off to Harbor Freight again!
Thanks
Ken, Annie the '48.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 619
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 9:41 pm
- Location: Sussex N.B. Can.
HI Ken, the idler gear is on a round slip block. (Best description I could think of,,sorry!) The block is counter sunk into the engine block, and is a snug fit. Carefully use a pry on either side of the gear, and work around the gear to remove the gear with the slip block. The slip block fits into the engine block around an 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch (I think).
The cam gear would come out best with the cam. If you want to take it off the cam, use a press once you have removed the cam and gear from the engine. There are 2 or 3, I think 2, bolts in a retaining plate that hold the cam into the engine, the bolts are accessable through the holes in the cam gear, by turning the cam till you can see the head of the bolt.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
The cam gear would come out best with the cam. If you want to take it off the cam, use a press once you have removed the cam and gear from the engine. There are 2 or 3, I think 2, bolts in a retaining plate that hold the cam into the engine, the bolts are accessable through the holes in the cam gear, by turning the cam till you can see the head of the bolt.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
V.P. of T.S.A. (taking stuff apart)
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 40023
- Tractors Owned: 1948 FCub
1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Fisherville
Thanks Partsman,
You are exactly right. I successfully persuaded the idler gear off last night but the cam shaft does not want to come out even after I removed those two bolts. I think that the valve tappets are still applying enough pressure to not allow the shaft to come out. So of to NAPA for a valve spring compresser tool today. I will need it for reassemble anyways.
You are exactly right. I successfully persuaded the idler gear off last night but the cam shaft does not want to come out even after I removed those two bolts. I think that the valve tappets are still applying enough pressure to not allow the shaft to come out. So of to NAPA for a valve spring compresser tool today. I will need it for reassemble anyways.
Ken, Annie the '48.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
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- Team Cub Guide
- Posts: 3544
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 38658
- eBay ID: Cub-Bud
- Tractors Owned: Four FCUBs, one IH Lo-Boy, one B Farmall, two Cadets, and a John Deere B.
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MS, Pope
Ken,
You are on the right track....remove the valves and push the tappets up (down if the block is upside down) and the camshaft will come out the front. Inspect the camshaft (especially the lobes) and the tappets for wear. Keep up the good work
You are on the right track....remove the valves and push the tappets up (down if the block is upside down) and the camshaft will come out the front. Inspect the camshaft (especially the lobes) and the tappets for wear. Keep up the good work
"Never forget where it is you come from, or you may find yourself someplace you don't want to be"
Greg Norman
Greg Norman
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 40023
- Tractors Owned: 1948 FCub
1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Fisherville
-
- Team Cub Guide
- Posts: 3544
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 6:30 pm
- Zip Code: 38658
- eBay ID: Cub-Bud
- Tractors Owned: Four FCUBs, one IH Lo-Boy, one B Farmall, two Cadets, and a John Deere B.
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: MS, Pope
I'm doing GREAT I am currently involved in three (3) tractor renews...my 1945 Farmall B, my Dad's 1948 FCUB, and John Puckett's 1949 FCUB. I am also lending a hand to Russ Leggitt in his engine rebuild on one of his cubs next week.
AIN'T IT GREAT
Once the valve springs are compressed, you will see two keepers per valve that are currently hidden inside the spring seats. You may find a small telescoping probe magnet a big help in retrieving the keepers.
Good luck and keep us posted.
AIN'T IT GREAT
Once the valve springs are compressed, you will see two keepers per valve that are currently hidden inside the spring seats. You may find a small telescoping probe magnet a big help in retrieving the keepers.
Good luck and keep us posted.
"Never forget where it is you come from, or you may find yourself someplace you don't want to be"
Greg Norman
Greg Norman
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
On the bottom of the valve spring is a cupped "washer" . the keepers are 2 tapered pieces that fit around the valve and slide up into the cupped washer. they have a tendancy to fall down into the engine, so it is a good idea either to plug the oil drain holes, or put something under the engine to catch them. If you have a parts manual there is a good illustration of them in group 12 page 11.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 40023
- Tractors Owned: 1948 FCub
1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Fisherville
-
- 10+ Years
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
-
- 10+ Years
-
- 10+ Years
- Posts: 994
- Joined: Mon Feb 03, 2003 11:10 am
- Zip Code: 40023
- Tractors Owned: 1948 FCub
1957 LoBoy - Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: KY, Fisherville
John, you are amazing! I should have thought about looking at the parts manual. It would show each piece in more detail. Wow the grease trick is one of those "now why didn't I think of that" things. Maybe now you can tell me how to get the grease out from under mu nails. My food is starting to taste funny.
Ken, Annie the '48.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
I think we gotter if'n she don't jump, Andy Griffith.
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- Team Cub Mentor
- Posts: 24144
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 12:50 pm
- Zip Code: 43113
- Circle of Safety: Y
- Location: OH, Circleville
Ken, it's an acquired taste. You'll get used to it.
Bigdog
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
My wife says I don't listen to her. - - - - - - - - Or something like that!
http://www.cubtug.com
-
- 10+ Years
-
- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
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