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CRACK CRACK CRACK!
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
CRACK CRACK CRACK!
Uh oh...
Well I found two cracks, and they look like doozies... But I don't think they are in the "normal" place, having gone back through all the threads about cracks in the tractor body?
Both of the cracks are between 3 and 4 inches long, and they run horizontally along the very front of the tractor, just above the starter crank hole. When I tap on the top of the casting, just in front of the radiator gasket, fluid comes out of the cracks... Is this coolant or just trapped water? Was that a hollow chamber for coolant storage inside that casting?
Crap crap crap...
Well I found two cracks, and they look like doozies... But I don't think they are in the "normal" place, having gone back through all the threads about cracks in the tractor body?
Both of the cracks are between 3 and 4 inches long, and they run horizontally along the very front of the tractor, just above the starter crank hole. When I tap on the top of the casting, just in front of the radiator gasket, fluid comes out of the cracks... Is this coolant or just trapped water? Was that a hollow chamber for coolant storage inside that casting?
Crap crap crap...
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 876
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 11:19 pm
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
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- 10+ Years
Allen,
That is very common on these Cubs. What you have is a cracked bolster. This is caused by freezing. The best soultion is to replace it with a known good part. It can be welded as Mr GW will most likley show but it takes some one who knows what they're doing with a casting. I made a temp fix with JB weld, (not the way to go).
When the bolster is cracked it also heaves the top of the bolster (where the radiaror sits). The radiator will not seal unless it sits on a flat surface.
That is very common on these Cubs. What you have is a cracked bolster. This is caused by freezing. The best soultion is to replace it with a known good part. It can be welded as Mr GW will most likley show but it takes some one who knows what they're doing with a casting. I made a temp fix with JB weld, (not the way to go).
When the bolster is cracked it also heaves the top of the bolster (where the radiaror sits). The radiator will not seal unless it sits on a flat surface.
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
Cracked bolster...
Thank you all.
While I cost out a used and a new-if-available replacement, what is the easiest method of getting it repaired, should I remove the front end and take just the bolster in to be welded, ground, and then have the top re-machined to flatten/true it up?
Seems easier than rolling a dead tractor somewhere.
It seems that at the very front of the tractor, this isn't really a structural component at all - it just has a little pressure on it from the coolant, but very little pressure as far as I can tell considering the strength of a weld. I had the 454 in my boat sleeved and welded last year, and if that's held up, then there must be a simple way to fix this thing!
While I cost out a used and a new-if-available replacement, what is the easiest method of getting it repaired, should I remove the front end and take just the bolster in to be welded, ground, and then have the top re-machined to flatten/true it up?
Seems easier than rolling a dead tractor somewhere.
It seems that at the very front of the tractor, this isn't really a structural component at all - it just has a little pressure on it from the coolant, but very little pressure as far as I can tell considering the strength of a weld. I had the 454 in my boat sleeved and welded last year, and if that's held up, then there must be a simple way to fix this thing!
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 23701
- Joined: Sun Feb 02, 2003 2:09 pm
- Zip Code: 63664
- Tractors Owned: 47, 48, 49 cub plus Wagner loader & other attachments. 41 Farmall H.
- Location: Mo, Potosi
http://www.jptractorsalvage.com and http://www.tmtractor.com both sell them, and I think http://www.chowntractorparts.com in Canada may also have them.
If you are not part of the solution,
you are part of the problem!!!
you are part of the problem!!!
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
Mr. GW
Donny M wrote:It can be welded as Mr GW will most likley show
Is Mr. GW a reference to George Willer (did I get that name right?)... I did notice a post from a while back where somebody, perhaps Mr. Willer had said that welding was not sufficient? But that was referring to cracks in the block I think, and this is not in a part of the engine block, but on the foremost part of the tractor...
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
Hard to find...
Sent them all an e-mail. Appears to be sold out where there was *evidence* of it being available
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Sat May 22, 2004 1:46 am
- Location: MI, Temperance
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
Rare...
I still gotta think its repairable...
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- 10+ Years
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 309
- Joined: Sat Aug 07, 2004 11:08 am
- Location: Enfield Nova Scotia
allenlook
I have had three rad bolsters welded by three different welders that said they could fix them. The best idea is to look and wait for one that is not cracked, like some one in a earlier post when they freeze they bulge the top,you will not stop the rad from leaking.
I have had three rad bolsters welded by three different welders that said they could fix them. The best idea is to look and wait for one that is not cracked, like some one in a earlier post when they freeze they bulge the top,you will not stop the rad from leaking.
owner of 48 fcub 34206 Cub cadets 108/102 with mower,snow thrower and blade
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- 10+ Years
- Posts: 80
- Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 11:23 am
- Location: Columbus, Georgia
crack crack crack
allenlook,
Take a look at item #3831635469 on eBay.
I believe this what you are looking for.
Ron Henderson
Take a look at item #3831635469 on eBay.
I believe this what you are looking for.
Ron Henderson
1951 Farmall Cub
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- Cub Pro
- Posts: 1795
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 10:37 pm
- Zip Code: 12020
- Location: NY, Saratoga Springs
I dunno.
Gosh, I don't know fellas.
I don't want to question the collective wisdom at all. Believe me.
In a former life I worked with rotating elements weighing tens of tons, and machined to tolerances of tenths of thousandths of inches... The welders who built, maintained and repaired the units could all weld a rock to a tree permanently, and this just doesn't seem like a structural area, nor does it seem all that difficult to remachine/lap the radiator seat back to flat, if it's even bowed at all based on this hairline crack...
I've gotta say I have a shot at fixing this one, and I'll give it a try based on the price of the "new" item.
BTW, thank you George for your picture of where to look for block cracks. So far, I don't see any, and I've removed at least two layers of gunk and paint in my search
I don't want to question the collective wisdom at all. Believe me.
In a former life I worked with rotating elements weighing tens of tons, and machined to tolerances of tenths of thousandths of inches... The welders who built, maintained and repaired the units could all weld a rock to a tree permanently, and this just doesn't seem like a structural area, nor does it seem all that difficult to remachine/lap the radiator seat back to flat, if it's even bowed at all based on this hairline crack...
I've gotta say I have a shot at fixing this one, and I'll give it a try based on the price of the "new" item.
BTW, thank you George for your picture of where to look for block cracks. So far, I don't see any, and I've removed at least two layers of gunk and paint in my search
Searchable Cub Parts Database and Manual Galleries at www.farmallcub.info - Computerized Carving at www.bitcarving.com
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