I'm still tearing down and going thru my "57".I have everything almost taken apart.I need to remove the differential so I can get to tranny.I am having a hard time removing the carrier bearing caps on the right and left side of the differential housing.I can see how everything is assembled.I have all the manuals and they don't say much about removing these caps so I reckon I ought to know how.Is there a trick,a special tool?These babys sure are tight.
Thanks,Brockway
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Differential Help!
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- Team Cub Guide
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Brockway,
I did a differential installation about 8 months ago and I remember those caps being a bear as well. I took a punch to the bolt holes and worked them side to side, being careful of course. Once I got them off, couldn't figure how to get the race out. I had ordered a differential and pinion from Tom @ tmtractorparts.com, and he threw in some caps with better looking races, and a few shims as well.
I did a differential installation about 8 months ago and I remember those caps being a bear as well. I took a punch to the bolt holes and worked them side to side, being careful of course. Once I got them off, couldn't figure how to get the race out. I had ordered a differential and pinion from Tom @ tmtractorparts.com, and he threw in some caps with better looking races, and a few shims as well.
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- 10+ Years
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To get a bearing race out of a cup like in the picture, or similar space not easily accessed, run a bead of weld around the center of the face, turn the cup upside down in such a way that there is room for the race to fall out when it cools, and walk away. It will just drop out when it cools.
V.P. of T.S.A. (taking stuff apart)
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- Team Cub Guide
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67 International Cub Loboy
57 Farmall 130 - Location: Northern Ontario
It's a good thing I looked at this one.
I will be swapping out the diff. oil seals on the side of the tranny before installing the finals back on. I was thing I would have to remove that plate that the seal is seated in. I had no idea until now that it is a bearing retainer as well.
I will have to rig something to pull the old seals out, some kind of hook thingy that I can pound on to pull outward.
This is fun
I will be swapping out the diff. oil seals on the side of the tranny before installing the finals back on. I was thing I would have to remove that plate that the seal is seated in. I had no idea until now that it is a bearing retainer as well.
I will have to rig something to pull the old seals out, some kind of hook thingy that I can pound on to pull outward.
This is fun
Just Do It !
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- 10+ Years
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Hi Brockway,
The retainer on the right [long side] can be removed by easing a putty
knife and then something thicker like a screwdriver on opposite sides
and apply slight pressure and work it out. The one on the left [short side]
is a little more difficult since it is recessed. I took a two short pieces of
scrap metal about 1/8 in. thick and 1 in. wide and made me a claw like on
a small recking bar one one end and sharpened it [actually sharpen
before bending]. Make sure it has a short enough radius to fit in the
recess. Then use it much like a claw hammer and slowly with small
amounts of pressure pry it out.
Next comes the trick of removing the differential. If it can not be
removed by tilting the top to the left then the bearing cone on the right
side [long side] must be removed. On mine it is all I could do to get
the differential out "after" removing the bearing cone. I was going to
replace the cone anyway so I just pryed the cone off with a screwdriver.
If you have Service Maunal GSS-1411 it is shown on pages 6-4 and 6-5.
Hope this helps some and good luck. I am sure that the experts will
be on here to tell you the "really" easy way. Ha
The retainer on the right [long side] can be removed by easing a putty
knife and then something thicker like a screwdriver on opposite sides
and apply slight pressure and work it out. The one on the left [short side]
is a little more difficult since it is recessed. I took a two short pieces of
scrap metal about 1/8 in. thick and 1 in. wide and made me a claw like on
a small recking bar one one end and sharpened it [actually sharpen
before bending]. Make sure it has a short enough radius to fit in the
recess. Then use it much like a claw hammer and slowly with small
amounts of pressure pry it out.
Next comes the trick of removing the differential. If it can not be
removed by tilting the top to the left then the bearing cone on the right
side [long side] must be removed. On mine it is all I could do to get
the differential out "after" removing the bearing cone. I was going to
replace the cone anyway so I just pryed the cone off with a screwdriver.
If you have Service Maunal GSS-1411 it is shown on pages 6-4 and 6-5.
Hope this helps some and good luck. I am sure that the experts will
be on here to tell you the "really" easy way. Ha
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2003 9:41 pm
- Location: Sussex N.B. Can.
l0 wrote:Will the welding trick work on outer races as well??
I'm not sure, but don't think so because it is the shrinking from cooling of after the weld that drops the races out. I've seen them cut with a torch (have to be better with a torch than me!!) or broken with a cold chisel. TIP< before just hammering with the chisel, make a cut most of the way though with a hacksaw, grinder or similar tool.
V.P. of T.S.A. (taking stuff apart)
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- 10+ Years
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- Joined: Sun Jun 13, 2004 10:18 am
- Location: Weatherford, Ok
Thanks for your help.parts man wrote:l0 wrote:Will the welding trick work on outer races as well??
I'm not sure, but don't think so because it is the shrinking from cooling of after the weld that drops the races out. I've seen them cut with a torch (have to be better with a torch than me!!) or broken with a cold chisel. TIP< before just hammering with the chisel, make a cut most of the way though with a hacksaw, grinder or similar tool.
If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape.
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