Cub and buzz saw

[beaconlight]

[img]C:\Documents%20and%20Settings\Administrator\My%20Documents\My%20Pictures\2004-11%20(Nov)\HPIM0325.JPG[/img]

Well that did not work

[Bigdog]

Beaconlight - your link shows that it points to a file on your C drive. Your image must be on a web address before the link can work.

[beaconlight]

Thanks BD


Bill

[beaconlight]

Big Dog i sent you some pictures of the Buzz saw. Will you please post them for me? I'll get it down how to yet. I feel good that i could E-mail the pictures.

Thanks

Bill

[Bigdog]

No problem Bill.

[Bigdog]

Bill's buzz saw:

[Brent]

That's getting serious! Makes mine look like a pup! Does it run?

[Dan Robertson]

Interesting rig you have there Bill. -----:?:------ Does the PTO of the power unit just change the rotation of the output shaft, and maintain the 1 / 1 speed ratio? I can see the saw speed being reduced by the smaller pulley at the output of the jackshaft, and also by the larger pulley on the saw mandrell.
Bill---- PLEASE---- install a guard around that saw blade. I have stood by those blades for hours at a time off-bearing the cut sticks of wood, and they can be very unnerving when human fatigue begins to set in. Yeah--- I wanted to stop for a break-- but Dad wasn't quite ready, or we weren't quite to the bottom of the pole pile just yet.

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

YUP, been there , done that. Had an Uncle that lost 2 fingers to one. install a set of rails to carry the poles into the saw just above the mandrel, and a guard for safety.

[beaconlight]

Thanks Big Dog. I don't show it clearly in the pictures i sent BD and he kindly posted, but there is a table that pivots to carry the poles. I am a one man operation so when it is time to off load I shut down, but that does't mean that I won't follow up on your guard Idea. The table is not wide enough for long or thick pole lengths. I will fabricate some sort of extension to it or an auxilary table.
The out put of the engine engages and disengages via the lever and provides different speeds as well. There is only a slight speed reduction in the pulleys. I think the angle of the pictures makes it look more than it really is.
It used to work and has cut many cords of wood. I kept it out doors for years. About 5 years ago it would not start. No spark. As I have written before all that I knew about Mags at that time was that My grand father taught me how to cuss because of Mag troubles he had with pumps and such on his floating derrick. Everything is covered now that I built the 28 X 28 garage. Bev says it is my tool shed.
How do you tell the right speed for the blade? I used ithe speed where the blade just started to sing. I knew it was an item to be concerned about, but never knew where to find out. I figured most of the noise was because of the offset in the teeth. I also guessed that point would minumize metal fatigue setting in and fracturing the blade. The fact the the operators position was to the side of the blade and not in line with it was helpful too logevity too. So much to learn.
Since i have been on the forum I pulled copies of Rudi's manuals and others words of wisdom on Mags and will have it running again. Only problem is that My country place is 172 miles north west. Near Oneonta NY.
I have never understood the tubing running from what looks like an oiler at the top of the cowl to the tapped hole in the intake manifold (the milking machine vacume hole).
Note the serial number tag. It is smaller than the one on my lowboy.

Thank again Big Dog for publishing the pictures and every one else for all your words of wisdom.
If any one can add to the field of knowledge in using a Buzz saw, Please do so. I need all the help I can get to finish my plan of living to 106.

Bill

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

Maybe it fogged for mosquitos while sawing.

[beaconlight]

Good thinking John! Could have been a service observation cord too.

Bill

[John *.?-!.* cub owner]

I was kidding about the mosquitos, but wonder if they used it to let a little oil drip into the intake with the idea that running the extra oil through the valves and upper cylinders would reduce ring and valve sticking during the off season, much as people use top oil for. Normaly I will dump my left over 2 cycle mix in my cub if the mix is getting very old. Smokes for a little while, but it's been running a long time with no engine repairs.

[beaconlight]

Could be. I have often wondered if it was some addition by the PO for valve protection with the introduction of unleaded gas. The lead according to some at the time lubricated and cussioned and cooled the valves so that the did not burn out. I remembe it was supposed to be the end of the world for old engines with out stelite valves. You can still buy lead substitute.
really don't know.

If any one can help with blade max or optimum rpm.
I'll get an RPM meter and set blade speed accordingly. Other wise why waste the money. If itm is in feet travel per minute of the blade rim, my computer can do the math so that will work too
All the guard talk and some other comments here and on other saw discussions have me even more concerned than I was and I was pretty darned concerned. Sort of that when it stopped running I didn't seriously try to fix it concerned is how concerned. My goal is 106 shot by a jelous husband while going out the window. (Bev say's that if he misses, she'll have her boyfriend do it)

Bill

[Jim Becker]

IH did have top oilers available for some power units. Don't know if they did for this one, or if this is even what it would have looked like.

Are the sheaves for the big V belt adjustable? If they are the cylinder drive out of the same combine the engine came from, they would be. Looks like there is a lot of room to slow the blade down that way.