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Cord wood saw blade
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Cord wood saw blade
I'm looking for a couple of spare blades for my buzz saw. Anybody have any idea what a fair price is for good, usable blades in the 26" - 28" range?
Also, how do you tell if there is any unseen damage? I was told to tap on it and if it had a ring to it there were no unseen cracks in them.
Also, how do you tell if there is any unseen damage? I was told to tap on it and if it had a ring to it there were no unseen cracks in them.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Pay attention to the tooth and set. There are both crosscut(what you want) and rip blades. We used to sharpen cedar fence post on a table saw set up pulled with either a VAC Case or the H and dad had 2 blades we always used that had deeper set and longer in the tooth. They were rip blades also had a buzz saw set up for front mount on the H we sldom used and it had finer teeth on it for crosscut. Think handsaws you have rip and crosscut sets in them .
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Bill:
These blades/any blade will ring or sing clearly if there is no cracks. The tone can be a telling note - if it is dull then the blade has issues (maybe a hairline somewhere), if it is clear then the blade is solid. I usually check with a flick of my finger or lightly tap with a quarter. For a cross cut blade I like pretty aggressive set on the blade. Most saw blades are set around 5 degrees or so. The family has always set a more aggressive angle somewhere about 7 to 10 degrees of set to either side - makes for a wider kerf but a safer cut. You also need to see the blade cleaned. Check on the formation of the gullets as well. Malformed gullets will cause serious over heating issues and damage the blade. In the gullets is where you will see any possible cracking. Look for aged on build up of pitch and debris as well as chips in the teeth. If there is build up you will have to scrape the build up off (a pen knife works well) to see if there are any hairline cracks. If there are ANY cracks at all - walk better yet run from the blade. Buying a cracked blade is an emergency room or a morgue visit waiting to happen. Most cracks in the blade can be stopped by drilling stop holes - but that really should only be done by a pro sharpener, one who really knows what he is doing.
If you think the blade is worthwhile then the value comes into play. I bought 4 blades 3 years ago - 3 - 27" blades and a 25" blade. I paid $60.00 for them. Clean blades (oxidized of course) good gullets, rake/hook angles look good, just need some sharpening and a re-set.
I intend to take all of these blades to my local pro saw shop and have them all tuned up. Even though I have sharpened blades for over 40 years, I am not a pro sharpener. I redid my own blade that is currently on my saw table this past September. I normally use a flat bastard file but this time I wanted to rebuild the gullets and set the hook properly so I used my 4-1/2" grinder (worked like a charm). What normally takes about 40 minutes by hand I did in about 15. Man did that improve the cut After the other blades are done up by my local pro my current blade will go the same route.
Oh yeah ... if the blade is on an arbor, check it for true in round. Take a pencil and lay it in front of the blade. Slowly rotate the blade and see how many teeth will just contact the pencil when the pencil is pushed into the front of the blade. If more than a few miss - the blade will have to be trued back into round and then reground.
I wouldn't pay much more than $25.00 or $30.00 for a good 27" blade that has been sitting a while. Make sure that it hasn't been hanging outside on a barn wall or something. If it has stay away from it - probably warped.
I did a search on - seems most of these blades are marketed toward the arts and crafty folks - wanna paint a blade But there are a few hits - mostly for 21" and below, mostly in the $39.00 range. There was one hit for a larger blade with a larger price.
Large Sawmill Buzz Saw Blade 30-1/2" Diameter Solid Sawblade
These blades/any blade will ring or sing clearly if there is no cracks. The tone can be a telling note - if it is dull then the blade has issues (maybe a hairline somewhere), if it is clear then the blade is solid. I usually check with a flick of my finger or lightly tap with a quarter. For a cross cut blade I like pretty aggressive set on the blade. Most saw blades are set around 5 degrees or so. The family has always set a more aggressive angle somewhere about 7 to 10 degrees of set to either side - makes for a wider kerf but a safer cut. You also need to see the blade cleaned. Check on the formation of the gullets as well. Malformed gullets will cause serious over heating issues and damage the blade. In the gullets is where you will see any possible cracking. Look for aged on build up of pitch and debris as well as chips in the teeth. If there is build up you will have to scrape the build up off (a pen knife works well) to see if there are any hairline cracks. If there are ANY cracks at all - walk better yet run from the blade. Buying a cracked blade is an emergency room or a morgue visit waiting to happen. Most cracks in the blade can be stopped by drilling stop holes - but that really should only be done by a pro sharpener, one who really knows what he is doing.
If you think the blade is worthwhile then the value comes into play. I bought 4 blades 3 years ago - 3 - 27" blades and a 25" blade. I paid $60.00 for them. Clean blades (oxidized of course) good gullets, rake/hook angles look good, just need some sharpening and a re-set.
I intend to take all of these blades to my local pro saw shop and have them all tuned up. Even though I have sharpened blades for over 40 years, I am not a pro sharpener. I redid my own blade that is currently on my saw table this past September. I normally use a flat bastard file but this time I wanted to rebuild the gullets and set the hook properly so I used my 4-1/2" grinder (worked like a charm). What normally takes about 40 minutes by hand I did in about 15. Man did that improve the cut After the other blades are done up by my local pro my current blade will go the same route.
Oh yeah ... if the blade is on an arbor, check it for true in round. Take a pencil and lay it in front of the blade. Slowly rotate the blade and see how many teeth will just contact the pencil when the pencil is pushed into the front of the blade. If more than a few miss - the blade will have to be trued back into round and then reground.
I wouldn't pay much more than $25.00 or $30.00 for a good 27" blade that has been sitting a while. Make sure that it hasn't been hanging outside on a barn wall or something. If it has stay away from it - probably warped.
I did a search on - seems most of these blades are marketed toward the arts and crafty folks - wanna paint a blade But there are a few hits - mostly for 21" and below, mostly in the $39.00 range. There was one hit for a larger blade with a larger price.
Large Sawmill Buzz Saw Blade 30-1/2" Diameter Solid Sawblade
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Bill, I was curious what a new price is and googled buzz saw blade for sale. WOW crosscut.com wants $218.50 for a 32" blade and newhavenpower.com $324.99 for a 30". If I happen to see a used one I'll let you know. Do you have the 1 3/8 inch arbor? Vern
I didn't think those would be so hard to find but just ran a 750 mile search of craigslist and came up with just 2.
http://quadcities.craigslist.org/grd/3506101091.html this is a 29 inch
http://nwct.craigslist.org/grd/3458225309.html This is a 26 inch
I didn't think those would be so hard to find but just ran a 750 mile search of craigslist and came up with just 2.
http://quadcities.craigslist.org/grd/3506101091.html this is a 29 inch
http://nwct.craigslist.org/grd/3458225309.html This is a 26 inch
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Other thing to take into consideration is the arbor diameter. There is a large variation in arbor sizes. I would think that a pro sharpener might be able to properly resize the arbor diameter but you should check before you buy one smaller than the diameter of your saw. My arbor is 1-3/8" +/-.
2 Antique buzz cut saw blades
I also googled New Buzz Saw Blades
The Woodsman Cordwood Saw Replacement Blade is on Sale!! $324.99
This is a 30" nominal blade but they may be able to help you source a 28". I think that is what you have right - the C.W. Mott Cub Brookfield ?
Ahother google search New 28" Buzz Saw Blades, returnbed some useful hits but not as many. Best source is probably CL, eBay etc.. Will keep looking.
2 Antique buzz cut saw blades
I also googled New Buzz Saw Blades
The Woodsman Cordwood Saw Replacement Blade is on Sale!! $324.99
This is a 30" nominal blade but they may be able to help you source a 28". I think that is what you have right - the C.W. Mott Cub Brookfield ?
Ahother google search New 28" Buzz Saw Blades, returnbed some useful hits but not as many. Best source is probably CL, eBay etc.. Will keep looking.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Thanks guys, I only needed the going rate for used (already checked all the new prices) and if the tapping to check for cracks was true. I now have the info I needed. Appreciate the help.
There are two ways to get enough Cubs. One is to continue to accumulate more and more. The other is to desire less.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Rudi wrote:But it was a fun search And I found something new
I'm not saying to stop, others may be able to use the info. I just meant I have what I need.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Around here many are taken out of service and have primitive art painted on them. This happens with cross cuts to.
The artist think so highly of their work that one cannot afford to return them to service.
The artist think so highly of their work that one cannot afford to return them to service.
Best,
Mike
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Rudi has nailed it right down, and pointed out all the pitfalls in buying saw-blade. In my former profession I did a lot of sawing. It takes a delicate touch to deepen the gullets a wee angle grinder, well done Rudi you could have been a brain surgeon!!!LOL
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
One thing you will not know when buying a used cordwood saw blade is if it's warped. If it heats up at all it will wobble when running. My 25 inch one wobbles bad when cutting big pieces
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
If it comes to having to have one tuned and sharpened I use Dinosaw. They are local to me but according to thier website have pick up and delivery in Ohio. They are relatively inexpensive and extremely good. If Ed jumps in he can tell you his experience with them. He brought one here and we took it down to them.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Cecil wrote:If it comes to having to have one tuned and sharpened I use Dinosaw. They are local to me but according to thier website have pick up and delivery in Ohio. They are relatively inexpensive and extremely good. If Ed jumps in he can tell you his experience with them. He brought one here and we took it down to them.
They did a few, for me. One that was given to me, was warped, like in "fingers slide under, when flat on a table", warped. I asked about straightening, and they said that they could. When I went to pick it up, they apologized, because it was still 4 thousandths, off. They do a great job, sharpening, too.
Ed
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
Wow, I forgot I even posted this. I have since acquired two blades, but the info is handy.
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Re: Cord wood saw blade
If you do not have a professional sharpening service near, Talk to the sawyer at the local sawmill. If he has been at it very long he will be able to take the wobble out of it.muslcars wrote:One thing you will not know when buying a used cordwood saw blade is if it's warped. If it heats up at all it will wobble when running. My 25 inch one wobbles bad when cutting big pieces
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