I had about 12 volunteer cedar trees growing in my back fence that I have been wanting to take down for a while to improve my view across the fields below me. They were 8 to 12 feet taller than the fence, and I finally got around to cutting them at the top of the fence and trimming the limbs in the fence. In my younger days I would have either rolled them onto a trailer or cut them in smaller pieces and then thrown them on the trailer to haul to a brush pile, but my back does not like that kind of work anymore. It is about a half mile across the field and down the road to a brush pile, so i did not really want to drag them one at a time, and try to roll them into it, so I tried another idea. I had a local welding shop make some forks to bolt to the bucket of the Wagner loader.
Here is one of the smaller ones being hauled
and one of the larger ones.
The direction of the wind, etc. they fell outside my lower fence when I cut them, so I picked them up and drove around the outside fence and then dropped them over it into a corner of the yard by my road.
I then drove the half mile back and again picked them up and carried across the road closer to the brush pile. It is still to muddy to get all the way to the brush pile, but I will take care of that when the ground dries or freezes.
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The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
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The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
If you are not part of the solution,
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you are part of the problem!!!
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
Hey, new fence post, and you didn't even have to set them, LOL!
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
I don't know about the soil condition John has. I've been slowly clearing cedars. Dropping the tree leaving about 2 feet of trunk standing.danovercash wrote:Hey, new fence post, and you didn't even have to set them.
The cedars do not have a deep root structure. Roots are within about 6 inches of soil surface. I wait for 2 or 3 years for the root structure to rot. Then easily push or knock over the remaining trunk.
I use cedar as corner posts and corner braces. But you gotta dig a hole. The white portion of the post rots off rapidly. The red center portion of a cedar post does not readily rot and remains.
I have an excuse. CRS.
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
Yep, farmers round here are particular about how much red wood is in the center of the post they use for that reason. (rot)
Last edited by danovercash on Sun Mar 10, 2013 6:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
John:
Very nice mod to the Wagner. Gets the job done a lot easier. I like it a lot
Very nice mod to the Wagner. Gets the job done a lot easier. I like it a lot
Confusion breeds Discussion which breeds Knowledge which breeds Confidence which breeds Friendship
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
When the weather warms again I will go back and remove as many of the stumps as I can, because as has been mentioned, they rot off pretty quickly. The problem is that many of them have grown around the wire, which makes that removal more difficult.
If you are not part of the solution,
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
Working smart - not avoiding it. If we had only worked smarter in our younger days!
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
Looks like a great way to build a blind for upcoming turkey season!
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
I bet you still got a workout trying to steer...
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Re: The lengths I will go to avoiding work.
Steering is not as bad as you would expect, I have car tires on the front so I can run them at 44 psi, thrust roller bearings supporting the front spindles, and a 17 inch steering wheel for an H. all of it combined works out pretty good. Seeing where I was going was a bit of a problem though, about all I could do was drive along side the fence till I got where I was going, completely blind in front. This was the smallest load, and even with it seeing was interesting.Matt Kirsch wrote:I bet you still got a workout trying to steer...
If you are not part of the solution,
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